Changed injectors/maf..Some problems.

Tbuck07 · May 26, 2010

So I changed my stock injectors in my 89 5.0 mustang to 24# with a matching 76mm(I believe) C&L Maf, and I found I had to adjust my idle some to get it to idle right..but now its got this hanging idle that feels like my 4.6 did. I know I should probably get tune but the closest place from here is over 200 miles away. Maybe I need to adjust the TPS?

I also noticed something odd..I'm burning off stuff off my headers from when I removed the intake, but I noticed on the drivers side I'm burning what smells like oil off of it..I dont see how that could get there from removing the upper intake, but I can see a little oil on the valve cover..The cars been sitting for almost a month and hasnt been driven since..and wasnt leaking then. Maybe it is something I dropped off the intake when I took it off and it just needs to burn off..not sure..

mustangshane · May 27, 2010

I thought someone made a tuner for the MAF directly, that would fix the hanging idle. As for the stuff on the headers. It happens. It's probably nothing. Check it again after a couple days of driving it. If its still there then you might need new VC gaskets.

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

So the hanging idle is a result of me switching maf's?.. I cant get this car to idle for shit either. I thought I had it licked yesterday, now trying to get it to idle its not happening. I was hoping to take it to the track tomorrow

LAFENATU · May 27, 2010

Tbuck07 said:
So the hanging idle is a result of me switching maf's?.. I cant get this car to idle for **** either. I thought I had it licked yesterday, now trying to get it to idle its not happening. I was hoping to take it to the track tomorrow

1. Do you have the correct calibration with the MAF meter for the injectors?

2. Pro-M/PMAS > C&L

C&L comes with an air tube where the stock sensor is still used. The air tube is supposed to trick the sensor to thinking it has larger injectors.

Pro-M or PMAS the sensor is calibrated for that specific injector, no tricking the computer.

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

Yeah it says its calibrated correctly..For those injectors

LAFENATU · May 27, 2010

Tbuck07 said:
Yeah it says its calibrated correctly..For those injectors

Unhook the battery for a few minutes and then re-connect it and start the car.

When you unhook the battery it resets the PCM. It might not fix the problem, but it's worth a shot.

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

Ill try that, also heard from many that the housing needs to be cocked more towards the engine bay, rather than the fender well..so ill try that too..

I know that I tightned the last bolt on the upper intake (street heat) intake the best I could, but its so impossible to get to..its the bolt closest to the driver side, on the firewall side..that bolt is so hard to get something on..!

But I got it fairly snug..Not sure if its loose enough to cause some kind of intake leak as to what would cause all this..I doubt thatd cause a "hanging idle"

LAFENATU · May 27, 2010

Tbuck07 said:
I know that I tightned the last bolt on the upper intake (street heat) intake the best I could, but its so impossible to get to..its the bolt closest to the driver side, on the firewall side..that bolt is so hard to get something on..!

Didn't you have the manifold on before you put the meter on, or did you do this all at once?

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

I put the intake manifold back on, then put my cold air intake back on..so I did the maf last.

Venom351R · May 27, 2010

Id try clocking it and see if that helps. Those C&L Meters are very picky when it comes to idle. Mine was never that great when I had one, thats why I dont have one now

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

The idle comes and goes..starting to get better..the main thing thats got me wondering is the "hanging" rev or whatever it is..takes forever to come back down..I found this though..

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Where my finger is isnt plugged or anything, seems like its open to the touch..I didnt see any vaccuum lines that werent hooked up anywhere..I also know when I did this swap I bypassed the charcoal canister because my evap was being a PITA..so I know theres two vacuum hookups on the front of the intake..I took that tube and disconnected it from the canister and looped it back to plug it into the other vacuum port that had a cap on it for now..(kinda see it in the picture) Not sure if that would do it..?

Also..I tightened this bolt down (Closest to drivers side), but couldnt get it really really snug..is there a special tool anyone knows of out there? Such a cramped area, cant get a socket on it..cant get enough room to move a wrench..!

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rz5.0 · May 27, 2010

find somewere to plug it or cap it. it will help your idle.its a 12 point socket 10mm or 3/8 cant recall. or the back side of a wrech will work too

Tbuck07 · May 27, 2010

Will it help this "hanging "idle? And I know the size of the socket..and the wrench. The point is its too cramped back there with all the vacuum lines and the firewall.

mikey94gt · May 27, 2010

A craftsman 3/8" wrench will fit it, you gotta get it so the flange on the nut touches the intake before you tighten all the other bolts... same with the one on the driver's side in the front...

Tbuck07 · May 28, 2010

Put my finger over the hole..it was sucking in air hardcore..took finger off..car started dying. Found the problem..question is..I dont see anything that was supposed to go over it..so do I just cap it?

mikey94gt · May 28, 2010

That's what I would do.

ttocs · May 28, 2010

there is a hose that comes out of the firewall on the passenger side that is easily disconnected that controls the direction the air goes inside the car(windshield/dash/floor).

Tbuck07 · May 28, 2010

Found the problem, it was the pcv valve on lower plenum unhooked..

Cars still kinda sluggish, i guess I need a timing bump? I probably need to drop the fuel pressure as well

mikey94gt · May 28, 2010

timing to 10-14 ( I like 12), and fuel press at 28psi without the vacuum line hooked up.... Good luck buddy! IM gonna go try to figure out mine now.....