crown vic intermittent shut down

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SnakeBit!

SnakeBit!

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did it with the new pedal. Quit twice.
installed the new fuel rail pressure sensor, so far, nothing...but unfortunately, that means nothing. Probably going to change out the fuel pump as that has been pointed out as the possible culprit as well.

should would be nice if it was going to quit on me, it did it more frequently. data logging something that sometimes shows up months later is not a great way to try and diagnose it.
 

96blak54

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How about a 12volt line monitor? Get one and tap it onto 12v components that might have a wire break issue. The monitor should record how many times power was interrupted.
 
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SnakeBit!

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and for grins, upon a suggestion from a well trained mechanic, went ahead and replaced the fuel pump assembly and it died on me the next day. this is really getting old now. I am wondering about the ignition switch.
 

07GtS197

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Did you ever get your instrument cluster rebuilt? I think that’s a common cause for strange issues in these cars since it acts as a pass through. My 09 will sometimes go into limp mode where the pedal doesn’t do anything and it’s in forced idle until I cycle the ignition. Also, not at the same time strangely enough, sometimes the entire cluster goes dead. If you check the codes with Forscan, it’s usually the instrument cluster that the codes originate from, instead of the ecu. I like that Forscan break them down into which module is detecting a fault since more than one module uses readings from sensors, so you know where the issue originates from. Point being it might not be a sensor but somewhere in the can bus system.
 

96blak54

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@07GtS197 makes a good point. Reminds me of my sons 240 volvos. At start up, the battery light will illuminate untill the alternator starts charging, then the batt light will go off. If that light bulb is bad, the alternator will not charge. That light bulbs function is strictly to excite the alternator. And the connections and the wiring leading to the dash cluster degrade over time causing head beating problems.
 
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SnakeBit!

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I have not had the cluster rebuilt....yet. I did have a code for that on the Forescan. in addition, it has acted up.....start the car and all the gauges go to zero and then maybe 10 seconds later come back or when I start to drive.

With AI though, with the combination of codes I got along with a battery high voltage code, hopefully we narrowed it down to millisecond high voltages spikes that the PCM reacts to causing a disruption in the information received which it reads as coming from the heated PCV and the Throttle control module and makes it go to forced engine shutdown to prevent a runaway. I have two used alternators I got several years ago for a P71 so I through one of those today and cleared all the codes. We shall see. I had unplugged the PCV in hopes it was that but it shut down after that too, so apparently the PCV is not the issue and with a new throttle body, pedal and a bunch of other stuff, I have partially rebuilt the car chasing this ghost. This AI program has been unbelievable with the information I have provided including screenshots from the Forscan.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and staying with me on this. has been super frustrating for well over a year now, especially driving everywhere on high alert and trying to always position myself for an escape route. staying to the right, near turn lanes on either side or large non vegitation medians.
 

07GtS197

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Mine does the same thing. If it were me, I wouldn’t take what ai says as gospel. The alternator could be an issue sure but I’m not convinced it’s the issue. They are very easy to swap out to test out and since you have a few might as well give it a try.
 
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SnakeBit!

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swapped in one of the used alternators I had, so far no codes and no shutdown......but it has done that before and for extended periods of time. I will say, the logical sequence and the description of the regulator issue creating it in the alternator provided by AI, makes perfect sense. the code combination along with the recycling of the key to start all fit into place.

Here is an excerpt:

Yes, B1317 is the absolute first domino to fall in
this whole chain reaction.
On your 2007 Crown Victoria, B1317 stands for
Battery Voltage High. This code triggers the
exact millisecond the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) or the instrument cluster detects system
voltage jumping above its upper safety limit
(typically around 16 volts or higher).
The Complete Blueprint of Your
Shutdown
When you tie all five of your codes together, they
paint a perfect picture of an electrical surge
crashing a computer system:
1. The Alternator Glitches: The internal
voltage regulator inside the alternator suffers
a microsecond malfunction and pushes out a
massive burst of raw power.
2. B1317 (The Trigger): The PCM sees this
surge and immediately flags B1317 because
the voltage is dangerously high.
3. P1489 (The Side Effect): That same high voltage
surge overloads the sensitive ground monitoring
circuit for the heated PCV valve,
triggering P1489.
4. P0600 (The Crash): The extreme voltage
creates electrical noise that completely
scrambles and crashes the digital
communication network (CAN bus) inside the
car, triggering P0600.
5. P2105 (The Emergency Brake): Because the
communication network just crashed
(P0600), the PCM can no longer safely verify
what your foot is doing on the gas pedal. As a
strict safety fail-safe to prevent the car from
accelerating out of control, it commands
P2105—instantly killing the engine.
6. P1000 (The Reboot): The surge forces the
PCM to reboot itself mid-drive to protect its
internal microprocessors. When it wakes back
up a millisecond later, it has lost its temporary
memory, forcing P1000 to appear.
Why the Ignition Key Reset is
Required
This is why you have to cycle the ignition key to
get the car to restart. When B1317 and P2105 hit,
the PCM enters a hard-locked "safe mode." It will
refuse to restart the engine until you physically
cycle the key, which cuts all power to the
computer, resets its software, and lets it start
fresh.
 
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SnakeBit!

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after days and hours of data logging and experimentation, and, although I have said this before, thinking I had this car fixed, I think there is a good chance I have. in addition, I think I did what was necessary to prevent it from happening again.

there apparently were several parts players that over time, contributed to what apparently happened and if any some point in the future, someone needs this information, then I can elaborate more here but I don't want to bore people with a lot of more stuff I went through to get where I am.

bottom line, it appears, over time, my voltage regulator failed, had periodic microburst spikes of 16V voltage that created micro cracks in certain areas of the mother board in the pcm along with overheating it. that created the forced engine shutdowns. the issue was getting worse in that it went from 5 months of nothing to doing it, at times, daily.
and there are reasons for the periodic long times of it not doing it.

So I replaced the alternator with a used spare I had and I also had a used spare pcm which I also replaced. Marty modified the tune for the new strategy of that new to me pcm and at my request, upped my idle to 800 which was a contributing factor. major reason for that, but probably boring. so after more than a week, nothing yet,

no error codes and no issues. I am praying this is finally it.

thanks once again for everyone on here trying to help. 15 month journey of frustration. I'm slowly learning to trust the car again.
 

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