Dead gauge cluster, car won’t start.

[Defiant]

The other day I started my car and idled for a few seconds then it shut off. Tried starting it again and it just cranks. My gauges don’t sweep and my mileage doesn’t turn on although all the dummy lights work. This tells me it’s a pats issue but can’t quite narrow it down. I checked the instrument cluster fuse under the dash and it’s fine of course.

I swapped in another working cluster and it has the same problem where none of the gauge or mileage activate. The only thing I’ve done to the car recently was put in a new cardone CCRM to get my AC working. Is there another fuse somewhere that links the pats in the gauge cluster to the ccrm? I’ve read about a “2.21” fuse but haven’t see it listed in any diagrams.


Also, prior to this the car has been having some random unstable idle issues, and what appeared to be low voltage. The battery is good but I haven’t had a chance to test the alternator before the car crapped out the other day.


Help.

 

[ttocs]

not sure why you would think pats would kill the gauges? is the security light flashing? Have you checked any fuses? If not start there and do not bother with the manual just get on your back and take the 90 secs it takes to pull/inspect all the fuses. If those are all good then check the ones under the hood.

 

[Defiant]

I’ve had pats issues with this cluster in the past. It’s a long story but I had to have to circuit board of the cluster professionally tested and repaired. After swapping the other cluster it does seem less likely now though. The anti theft doesn’t flash, the car cranks just like when pats is immobilizing it.

 

[ttocs]

start simple check all your fuses and I bet you find one blown

 

[evilcw311]

[MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] I haven’t messed with it in so long but I was thinking there was a larger fuse that affects the alternator and starter. Maybe that’s just on our 94-95’s?!? Do you remember anything like that?
[MENTION=21935]Defiant[/MENTION] the cluster wouldn’t keep your car from starting. There is a resistor on the cluster that affects the alternators charging circuit but it wouldn’t cause a no start. I agree with Ttocs. Start with fuses and work forward.


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[Defiant]

All the fuses under the hood and dash that relate to the cluster and ccrm have been checked and are in good condition.

 

[ttocs]

so it sounds like you looked in the manual, tried to figure out what fuses were related and then checked those fuses? Its amazing how often a fuse is blown that has little or nothing to do with the problem at hand and what the manual says. Honestly, pull/check/inspect EVERY fuse. It takes less time then the manual, take my word for it. Once we know all the fuses are good then it might get more fun, tracing wires but I am not putting any time in researching a subj until we know the fuses are good.

 

[Defiant]

One thing I noticed is on a normal operating car when the key is switched to ON, the THEFT light illuminates for 3 seconds and then shuts off if everything checks out. On mine the THEFT light doesn’t illuminate at all with the key in the ON position but when it’s off the light does the normal flash.

Its raining out so I’m stuck for the moment but I plan to check out the ECU next. To me the problem seems to be the cluster isn’t getting switched power somewhere so PATS is disabling the injectors.

 

[ttocs]

did you check the large ignition 1 fuse I think its called under the hood? How do you know the injectors/pats are shutting down?

 

[07GtS197]

I bet its the ccrm, it will also cause a no start issue and it was replaced recently. Does the mileage show all dashes or nothing at all?

 

[Defiant]

I bet its the ccrm, it will also cause a no start issue and it was replaced recently. Does the mileage show all dashes or nothing at all?

Nothing at all. I was going to work on it today and I turned the key and now all the gauges sweeped and the car works again. I’ve been too busy to work on it so I didn’t touch anything since it crapped out. Now I wonder if this can be a malfunction in the ignition switch somewhere or maybe someone hacked some wires together back when it had an alarm setup.

 

[evilcw311]

Have you even dropped the hush panel yet?


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[Defiant]

No but that’s the next move. The weather has been real crummy lately but luckily this isn’t my only car otherwise I’d be screwed lol

 

[Defiant]

Wiring hackjob under the steering wheel, lots more of these types of connections further in the dash too. I’d bet one of these has a poor connection somewhere and is causing my cluster to not get full power. And since pats in the cluster isn’t talking with the ecu the car isn’t starting. Great time to have emissions inspection due tomorrow as well lol

I did verify that my ECU is indeed powering on. Here’s a video showing what happens when I cycle the key from off to on
[video=youtube_share;1HDhXSBySZE]https://youtu.be/1HDhXSBySZE[/video]


time to search for a dash wiring schematic

 

[evilcw311]

Get rid of all those damn t-taps and butt connectors and I bet your problem will be resolved. Those are Best Buy’s way of jacking up a good harness. That shit is for half ass installers who don’t know how to properly strip and solder a harness.


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[ttocs]

time to get really technical with it. Turn the key on, and then jiggle the wires in the harness. Jiggle being the technical term here that is between tickle and tug. If there is no change do not be afraid to tug on it. I agree though take out all the t-taps, at the very least give a good pull/tug on the crimp caps and make sure they are tight and do not come out.

 

[Defiant]

time to get really technical with it. Turn the key on, and then jiggle the wires in the harness. Jiggle being the technical term here that is between tickle and tug. If there is no change do not be afraid to tug on it. I agree though take out all the t-taps, at the very least give a good pull/tug on the crimp caps and make sure they are tight and do not come out.

I’ve been jiggling every wire I can to no avail. I’ve been searching for a schematic or cluster pinout for a 99-04 to help me narrow down the location but haven’t found anything yet. Weirdly pulling fuse 34 (iirc) under the dash and cycling the key causes the needles to go up half way and stick on there even with the key out.

I hate doing wiring under the dash but looks like that’s the only choice. I’m probably gonna pull the seat out to make it easier.

 

[Defiant]

Get rid of all those damn t-taps and butt connectors and I bet your problem will be resolved. Those are Best Buy’s way of jacking up a good harness. That shit is for half ass installers who don’t know how to properly strip and solder a harness.


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i wish these “experts” that hack this shit together would stop installing so many damn alarm systems that are clearly above their skill level. This is the third or fourth car I’ve owned with severely hacked up harnesses due to someone’s incompetence.

 

[ttocs]

in all honesty to do security clean takes experience that only comes with time but in the same breath t-taps are a connector that has NO business in a car.

 

[Defiant]

Today it starts up fine and even drove it around the block. I pulled the cluster out again and checked the harness from back there but it’s really tight, I checked the ecu harness and well and just to be sure I checked all grounds by the rad support but nope nothing seems to affect it. Chasing this problem is really getting annoying now.

Now that I think of it I remember someone once sharing the pinout to the cluster harness somewhere, gotta try to find that again. It’ll be a start at least.


okay I found this wiring diagram but the image is too low of a resolution. Anyone know where I can find the original ?

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/gauge-cluster-wiring-diagram.836235/