Does this belt need replacing?

[RAU03MACH]

Thats why i dont take mine to a shop , for anything i do my own work . that way i know what was done

 

[Wmac]

x2 what ttocs said. There is no reason for a shop to remove the p/s pulley during any engine r&r. Daryl needs to run the engine, stand to the side and watch to see if there is any wobble of the belt on any of the pulleys. The belt just needs to run inside the flange of any pulley, but not on or over the flange. Some pulleys don't even have that flange. Usually this type would be in the middle and not on the outer edge.

And as ttocs mentioned, Daryl needs to locate the 3/8" "square" hole on the tensioner and use the proper tools to release the tension on the tensioner. The T45 bolt is only to mount/secure the tensioner.

There is a proper tool to remove/install the p/s pulley as mentioned already and there are proper tools to release the tension on a tensioner. Daryl needs to add these to his toolbox.

And Goodyear sold their belt (and maybe hose) rights/division to Continental several years ago. Think they keep the rights to the use of "Gatorback". I have 1 of each and can say that the gatorback was one hell of a good belt. The elite series of Continental, well maybe.

 

[Daryl]

Ok, so I have a new (Gates) tensioner assembly/pulley. I got it on without much problem but now I don’t know how to get the belt over the tensioner! Man I feel STUPID!!

I have the belt correctly routed and seated around everything (all pulleys) but when I try to get it to the tensioner, I get to the left side of the pulley. So how do I retract the tensioner pulley that 3” to the left so I can slide the belt over it?

 

[ttocs]

are you trying to pull it over the tensioner?

You see the pulley directly above the "M" in mustang? That is the pulley you want to slide it under. double check that it is seated on all the pullies and the tensioner but is ran in front of that pully on top and then when you push the tensioner down slide it down under that pulley on top.

 

[Daryl]

my question was there any pulley changes done when that engine was built

No.

my question was there any pulley changes done when that engine was built

 

[Daryl]

are you trying to pull it over the tensioner?

You see the pulley directly above the "M" in mustang? That is the pulley you want to slide it under. double check that it is seated on all the pullies and the tensioner but is ran in front of that pully on top and then when you push the tensioner down slide it down under that pulley on top.

How do I push the tensioner down?

 

[Daryl]

x2 what ttocs said. There is no reason for a shop to remove the p/s pulley during any engine r&r. Daryl needs to run the engine, stand to the side and watch to see if there is any wobble of the belt on any of the pulleys. The belt just needs to run inside the flange of any pulley, but not on or over the flange. Some pulleys don't even have that flange. Usually this type would be in the middle and not on the outer edge.

And as ttocs mentioned, Daryl needs to locate the 3/8" "square" hole on the tensioner and use the proper tools to release the tension on the tensioner. The T45 bolt is only to mount/secure the tensioner.

There is a proper tool to remove/install the p/s pulley as mentioned already and there are proper tools to release the tension on a tensioner. Daryl needs to add these to his toolbox.

And Goodyear sold their belt (and maybe hose) rights/division to Continental several years ago. Think they keep the rights to the use of "Gatorback". I have 1 of each and can say that the gatorback was one hell of a good belt. The elite series of Continental, well maybe.

What tool is it that releases the tension?

 

[Daryl]

this is how far away I am from sliding the belt on. I tried ttodcs’ suggestion and got same distance other side.

 

[muzzy25]

there is a square hole left hand side . 3/8 rachet pull up on rachet pully will drop on goes the belt if not . to short?

 

[RAU03MACH]

Wrong belt ?

 

[RAU03MACH]

Some did not come with square hole
Put a wrench on the idler pulley nut and push down

 

[RAU03MACH]

My 92 f 150 was like that
No square hole

 

[RAU03MACH]

You may even need to pull up on it by the bolt head

 

[tinnocker]

Can you use the old belt to compare to the new belt as far as size and length?

 

[Wmac]

Put the belt on all the pullies and over top of the idler. With a 3/8 drive tool into tensioner, push towards the p/s pump. The tensioner pulley will drop down and release tension. At the same time, slide belt under idler pulley and release tensioner. Done.

Cobra belt s/b 104.5" (which Daryl has), Gt belt should be 105.5".

 

[ttocs]

I don't see the square hole in his idler unless I am missing it. Makes me wonder if you have the right idler...

 

[ttocs]

Yours looks different from mine. On mine below the bold holding it on there is the 3/8" square hole that with a short ratchet(3") I insert into the hole and then simply push it down to give more space on the belt.

 

[Daryl]

there is a square hole left hand side . 3/8 rachet pull up on rachet pully will drop on goes the belt if not . to short?

I’ll look for that tomorrow. Got to the point of “just walk away , Daryl. Just walk away…”

 

[muzzy25]

you can use short extension for more clearance. or mr muscle?

 

[ttocs]

We all get to that point but from what I can tell it may not be your fault. if you have that square hole and follow my instructions with a 3" extension it takes 10 secs. IF you don't have it then I have seen on other cars(a neighbors chrysler) where you just use the bolt that is holding the pulley in the same way. Just act like you are tightening it down with the ratchet and it should move the tensioner to release tension.