Dyno Numbers Soon, need info.

tekcisGT

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I have to bring it in this week for a few pulls to get a base line so my tuner can send me a new prog. for my SF3.
Car is as follows:
98 GT 4r70w
Pi swap
Professional Prod. intake / Upper Plenum / 75 T.b.
JBA shorty headers, Magnaflow catted X, Flowmaster 40's dumped.
BBK cold air kit w/ K&N
SCT FC3 tuner, which is where the question lies... does it matter if i keep the existing tune i've put in there or should I put it back to stock?
Any takers on numbers? I know I need a 90mm MAF - but he's a cool dude and said he'd tweak it for nada when I grab one.
Im guessing :dontknow: 240 ish hp 270 +/- 10 tq. before the tune. Car also has 18's w/ 3.73's but dont think it matters.
 

NERD

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Will the dyno have a sniffer to read A/F or do you have a wideband? You can add to the tune but I would start fresh and build a new file.

You don't need a 90mm Maf, the only thing you'll ever need with that setup is "maybe" slightly bigger injectors to be back in the 70% duty cycle range.

If you have a way to measure your A/F & you're half way good at manipulating your tune, you'll be at the 230-240rw range. (welcome to 20% drivetrain loss because of your Auto, lol.)

Also, is your tune now from the same tuner?
 
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tekcisGT

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Why do you say it doesnt need an MAF? Stock 5.0 mustangs benifit from a MAF, and I was told the stock injectors do not need to be upgraded until heads/cams?? I feel like johnny 5....more input! Also the a/f will be checked. Thanks!
 

duff daddy

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You wont need a maf, I ran a stock maf for a while with my ported heads and larger cams and was just fine, but I would take his advise on the larger injectors, maybe nothing huge but some 24's or 28's if you find a good deal.
 

vermilion

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24s will help keep you in the duty cycle as nerd mentioned. you will not peg a stock maf with that setup. i do recommend to go to a larger fuel pump. its not necessarily needed but it will keep you in the ballpark for future upgrades.
 

NXcoupe

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Made 300 rwhp on 24lb injectors, and a basically stock meter in a 2V. He went with a 80 prom and it picked up a little, but not like a 5.0 will, because you have a lot less air demand, and the factory meters aren't 55mm like the stock 5.0's were. Your's is around a 70mm from the factory, that's why you won't benefit much. the 24's probably aren't an absolute necessity, but they are if you plan on going on with your mods. Hope this helps
 
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tekcisGT

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Gotcha! Thanks, for the info! I talked to Nick today @ MHS, were going to go stage 1 or 2 heads with some bullet 2 cams. He recommends stage 1 since technically the 2 cam doesnt need anything but stock springs. I honestly think I should go 2 heads tho, so in the future when I go KB on a diff. block, I wont have to worry about it. The next thing I should change is the intake. Now, either I can sell it and buy a stocker while pocketing some $$ or, I can try to make it work better with some clean-up work. I hear the casting is what sucks, but it may very well be the design?? I just know they make crap with the 5 liters, so why would this be any different.
 

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