Engine swap planning - analysis paralysis

Snorky

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Lets be together and not against each other.

Simply conversate.

Intake valve area dictates hp potential. Prove me wrong
This has a high degree of truth to it. also placement, PI head intake valves have kind of crappy placement so part of the valve is sort of shrouded. The other keys to the city fall in with camshaft profile/dynamic compression ratio.
 

Jksr

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From what i can tell.. a built 5.3 mod with tfs heads , cam etc would run about 460 ish hp and with aluminium block would weigh about 120 ish lbs less than a normal 2V with a blower and you dont want to put much more HP than that on the bottom end of a stock motor anyways. The built motor would be 8 to 10K i think. Not sure what the supercharger would cost since i personally dont want the added weight on the front of a mustang. I am trying to figure out myself if i want to go coyote or built 2V. If i can find an aluminium block that will work for a decent price, i think i will go the built rout.
 

Snorky

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From what i can tell.. a built 5.3 mod with tfs heads , cam etc would run about 460 ish hp and with aluminium block would weigh about 120 ish lbs less than a normal 2V with a blower and you dont want to put much more HP than that on the bottom end of a stock motor anyways. The built motor would be 8 to 10K i think. Not sure what the supercharger would cost since i personally dont want the added weight on the front of a mustang. I am trying to figure out myself if i want to go coyote or built 2V. If i can find an aluminium block that will work for a decent price, i think i will go the built rout.
I would hunt for an aviator setup, lincoln mark 8 setup, orrr a 2005 explorer has it.
 

07GtS197

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Oh, I'm a cucumber, sir. Don't get mad, I'm showing you the validation behind my reasoning and asking how you validate yours.
I think your premise of "most hp for the buck" is flawed because it ignores the big picture.
Particularly because your recommendation for a non intercooled FI solution will never be as reliable as an NA build.

Also, the tuning argument isn't worth much given that he'll need a custom tune regardless of what he does.

Let's just try and reset: Do you have or personally built/paid for a car with the build recipe you are recommending?

Because if you have rebuilt a motor and thrown a blower on it that is pretty much plug and play for under like 6K you have my apologies and I an excited to hear the details on how to accomplish this.
Lol I’m not mad if there’s anyone here getting mad it’s you because I have a counterpoint.

I will admit others have valid points but I think we’re getting carried away with the intricacies of the 2v.

We can reset sure. But what does that have anything to do with a recommendation? You’re instigating another argument is all. Since you know everything I’ll be the bigger man and bow out. There’s no point suggesting a combo when you have all the right answers.
 

Snorky

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At the end of the day though, its all in what the OP wants out of it. Tfs heads with the appropriate "tfs" grind cams NA you can make 340-350 whp without the risk of potential fuel issues that end up ejth melting pistons. A standard centri setup at 9 lbs on a stock bottom end can put out roughly 385 whp. Not a huge difference..
 

lwarrior1016

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From what i can tell.. a built 5.3 mod with tfs heads , cam etc would run about 460 ish hp and with aluminium block would weigh about 120 ish lbs less than a normal 2V with a blower and you dont want to put much more HP than that on the bottom end of a stock motor anyways. The built motor would be 8 to 10K i think. Not sure what the supercharger would cost since i personally dont want the added weight on the front of a mustang. I am trying to figure out myself if i want to go coyote or built 2V. If i can find an aluminium block that will work for a decent price, i think i will go the built rout.
You definitely want to go coyote over the built 2v. If you are resourceful you can do the coyote cheap. My gen 1 coyote swap made 436rwhp, ran 11.6x 1/4 in a 3500lbs car, and still managed to get 24ish mpg. Plus it runs smooth because it’s stock.
 

Makoto

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At the end of the day though, its all in what the OP wants out of it. Tfs heads with the appropriate "tfs" grind cams NA you can make 340-350 whp without the risk of potential fuel issues that end up ejth melting pistons. A standard centri setup at 9 lbs on a stock bottom end can put out roughly 385 whp. Not a huge difference..

That's pretty much what I was thinking.

Lol I’m not mad if there’s anyone here getting mad it’s you because I have a counterpoint.

I will admit others have valid points but I think we’re getting carried away with the intricacies of the 2v.

We can reset sure. But what does that have anything to do with a recommendation? You’re instigating another argument is all. Since you know everything I’ll be the bigger man and bow out. There’s no point suggesting a combo when you have all the right answers.

I asked you questions. You ignored them. Conversations are back and forth.
IF you want to pretend like i'm mad or if you can't answer them, fine, but stop pretending like you want to have a dialogue if that's how you're going to behave.
 

07GtS197

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That's pretty much what I was thinking.



I asked you questions. You ignored them. Conversations are back and forth.
IF you want to pretend like i'm mad or if you can't answer them, fine, but stop pretending like you want to have a dialogue if that's how you're going to behave.
I can talk that’s fine with me. It’s how you singled out my response and pretty much shot down everything I said. He asked for opinions, not just yours. Plus you asked about my credentials and threw yours in my face. That’s cool and all that you’ve built cars, but you know that’s just going to start a pissing match. Just drop it, I said I was going to.

Oh and about my “behavior”, I gave back what you gave me. You made a smart comment to me first, I think I’m entitled to a rebuttal. This is a public forum, you’re not going to have the same opinion as the next guy.
 

Makoto

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I can talk that’s fine with me. It’s how you singled out my response and pretty much shot down everything I said. He asked for opinions, not just yours. Plus you asked about my credentials and threw yours in my face. That’s cool and all that you’ve built cars, but you know that’s just going to start a pissing match. Just drop it, I said I was going to.

Oh and about my “behavior”, I gave back what you gave me. You made a smart comment to me first, I think I’m entitled to a rebuttal. This is a public forum, you’re not going to have the same opinion as the next guy.

Dude, its pretty simple. I just asked how you came to your opinion. Instead of providing that you're throwing a fit.
P F A stands for Pulled From Ass, BTW, which is what people without validated calculations do.
 

07GtS197

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Dude, its pretty simple. I just asked how you came to your opinion. Instead of providing that you're throwing a fit.
P F A stands for Pulled From Ass, BTW, which is what people without validated calculations do.
Lol the only person that’s throwing a fit is you, I’m just stating facts.

All prices were taken from Lethal Performance’s website for reference

Trickflow heads assembled
3926.99
Cylinder head bolts
59.99
Track heat intake
944.99

Vortech V2 Si trim
5406.99

The trickflow top end kit would be nice because it’s na but would have increased nvh, not street friendly and I’m sure the wife wouldn’t approve. Not to mention the op would need a custom tune.

The supercharger kit makes a little less power, better powerband, can be ran without mods and comes with a tune. No intercooler wouldn’t be an issue for a cruiser. He wants more power, he can get an aftercooler, colder plugs and pulley down.

Like I said, you insulted me for no reason.
 

Makoto

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Lol the only person that’s throwing a fit is you, I’m just stating facts.

All prices were taken from Lethal Performance’s website for reference

Trickflow heads assembled
3926.99
Cylinder head bolts
59.99
Track heat intake
944.99

Vortech V2 Si trim
5406.99

The trickflow top end kit would be nice because it’s na but would have increased nvh, not street friendly and I’m sure the wife wouldn’t approve. Not to mention the op would need a custom tune.

The supercharger kit makes a little less power, better powerband, can be ran without mods and comes with a tune. No intercooler wouldn’t be an issue for a cruiser. He wants more power, he can get an aftercooler, colder plugs and pulley down.

Like I said, you insulted me for no reason.

Just to recap the dude is talking about an engine rebuild and you're talking about blowers and thousand dollar intakes.

So basically your advice is to stack a blower cost on top of an engine rebuild to get comparable power to that engine rebuilt with just better stuff?

Couldn't help but notice no blowers in your mod extensive mod list. I wonder why...

LOL. Good talk.
 

Snorky

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I would take a hard look at @lwarrior1016 s advice. To me the coyote swap seems like the best route for power / not pissing off the wife. I should know I stayed at a holiday inn last night
LOL hopefully the downtime is available for a swap as well as the technical experience. All engine swaps seem to snowball. .. then again.. correction.. all car projects seem to snowball
 

Makoto

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LOL hopefully the downtime is available for a swap as well as the technical experience. All engine swaps seem to snowball. .. then again.. correction.. all car projects seem to snowball

I call it the "why nots". knowing what you want beforehand really helps mitigate that.
 

Tim300wsm

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I will be the first to admit that I am completely new with fords and know fuck all about them. Having said that I’ve played with and worked on cars for quite some time. In that time I’ve seen way more “built” motors or forced induction conversion motors go off like a hand grenade than I have factory engines. I’ve seen plenty of ls swaps run fantastic. If I were to do a motor for one of these cars I would start fresh with a factory coyote. All the power of todays cars along with factory reliability. I know it’s not cheap but neither are the other options discussed. I’m not arguing or invalidating anyones opinion just giving my perspective. Also LS swap is always an option ;)
 
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Tim300wsm

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I will be the first to admit that I am completely new with fords and know fuck all about them. Having said that I’ve played with and worked on cars for quite some time. In that time I’ve seen way more “built” motors or forced induction conversion motors go off like a hand grenade than I have factory engines. I’ve seen plenty of ls swaps run fantastic. If I were to do a motor for one of these cars I would start fresh with a factory coyote. All the power of todays cars along with factory reliability. I know it’s not cheap but neither are the other options discussed. I’m not arguing or invalidating anyones opinion just giving my perspective. Also LS swap is always an option
 

Booboo

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Has anyone looked at the 7.3L gas motor? That seems like a good swap with lots of upgrade potential.

I personally am putting a big block in my 1997 GT. 460 with a 4.5" stroke - 30 over = 545 ci. Easy 600 HP with torque out the ass in a very street-able engine. AJE makes a k-member, plenty of adapters for about any transmission, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI #35680, fox body 460 headers and oil pan. The 460 is about the same size as a 4.6l and about the same weight with aluminum heads.
 

RAU03MACH

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I'm pretty close to getting all my parts for my 98
To convert over to a 4v
My opinion is if you don't want to go radical
And just get a little more horse power this is not that bad of a improvement
The only mods will be my fuel system
Pistons rods and a my automatic transmission with street strip shift kit and the tune for it
 

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