fawking IAC

the5.ohh

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Bumped up the idle months ago to fix my problem of going into reverse and drive and the car stalling. Worked for a while but its still happening, pretty often actually. So i should replace the IAC right?
 

MustangChris

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check for intake leaks, vacuum leaks, then borrow a friend's iac and see if that fixes it. the little bastard s are pricy to just randomly buy in hopes it fixes it... Lol
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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Have you checked for any leaks on the intake after the maf?
No, I'll check in a little bit when I go out though.
check for intake leaks, vacuum leaks, then borrow a friend's iac and see if that fixes it. the little bastard s are pricy to just randomly buy in hopes it fixes it... Lol
I'll be checking for all this, thanks dude. No friends of mine drive a Mustang :( They all drive like hondas or nissans lol. I know i looked it up and its like $80 i was the the fook the thing is smaller than my hand lol.
Ive got a 5.0 IAC if you need one. Let it go super cheap.
I'll let ya know if i need it, thanks dude
 

Addermk2

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Musturd... Please stop posting that IAC restrictor plate bullshit. It's a band-aid fix and a poor one at that.

A new IAC is likely not going to fix your problem. Your car should be able to idle while at full operating temp, with the IAC disconnected. It should be down near 550 rpm. If you can't get your car to idle that low with the IAC disconnected and the throttle stop screw backed all the way off... You likely have a vac leak.

And don't yell me its BS, because my 347 could idle that low. And yes, that's on a 94-95 ecu.
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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It idles fine. If i put it in drive or reverse and go, ots bogs and acts like its gonna die an most of the time it does.
 

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