Greenstang's surgery

99GreenStang · Aug 30, 2015

Okay update I got fuel lines installed finally but I realized that I forgot to put some sealant on the pipe fitting side of the adapter that goes into the fuel pump which also caused a leak but I fixed that the other day had to remove the lines and drain the gas out of the tank into a small gas can and then take the fittings off the fuel pump and I put some of the Permatex with PTFE sealer on the threads and put em' back in and reconnected the lines and NO LEAKS AT ALL NOW! YAY! LOL.

Although I have a couple other issues now. The issues I have to address now is adjusting the choke and my new Optima Red Top battery is DEAD ALREADY! So I don't think my Tuff Stuff One Wire Alternator is charging but I wasn't sure of the wiring when I connected it either because I was using the original alternator before off of the 3.8 V6 and I had the wire I'm using now spliced into some of the original factory alternator wires but I don't think it's correct now on this new Tuff Stuff One Wire Alternator which I wasn't sure if it was right when I installed it too be honest but I'll go to my local Napa here soon and get a new cable made that runs from the terminal labeled "Battery" on my new Tuff Stuff One Wire Alternator and I'll connect it to the positive terminal of my starter solenoid (which the positive battery cable is connected too" which is what the Tuff Stuff One Wire Alternator instructions that I read online say you can do. So that will solve the charging issue and thus the dead battery problem. But I can't address the choke issue until I solve the alternator charging issue. I also need to call Quick Fuel Monday and ask a few questions regarding setting this electric choke.

I'll keep y'all updated!

Thanks for reading,

Cameron

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99GreenStang · Sep 14, 2015

Okay I've decided to ditch the transmission controller and TPS crap. Getting a refund and finding a transmission maybe a c4? That's not electronic to swap in. Does anyone have a suggestion of a transmission and what all is needed to swap it in a 99 mustang. Thanks!

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lwarrior1016 · Sep 14, 2015

Is this going to be a track car only? You're going to miss the overdrive if it's a street car.

99GreenStang · Sep 14, 2015

It's gonna be a street car. I've never missed anything or felt like I was missing something when I've drove cars with a C4 transmission. The 4R70w is basically the same as a C4 with the main difference being the 4R70W is electronically controlled and the C4 is not. I could convert the 4R70W to a non electronically controlled transmission with a manual valve body could I not?

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lwarrior1016 · Sep 14, 2015

99GreenStang said:
It's gonna be a street car. I've never missed anything or felt like I was missing something when I've drove cars with a C4 transmission. The 4R70w is basically the same as a C4 with the main difference being the 4R70W is electronically controlled and the C4 is not. I could convert the 4R70W to a non electronically controlled transmission with a manual valve body could I not?

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Yes you can. A full manual valve body and a vacuum modulator. I saw a good build on this once, I'll see if I can dig it up and post it here.

McCloud · Sep 14, 2015

Where in East Tennessee are you? You mentioned dirt track racing was close by. You wouldn't happen to live near Tazewell would you?

99GreenStang · Sep 15, 2015

Warrior see if you can find that build please I believe I will go with a full manual valve body. Any ideas on how to install one of them? I've never worked with transmissions before due to the millions of tiny parts you always hear about that scare the shit out of you lol.

And McCloud I am about 2 hours South of Tazwell. I live in Spring City, TN we have a dirt track here. We used to race at Spring City, Cleveland, Wartburg, Atomic Motor Speedway (The best track I've ever been too a trucking company bought and tore down what a shame you know how good this track was if you ever went to it), Boyds Speedway (2nd best track I've ever been too down off East Ridge exit in Chattanooga located on the TN/GA state line), Crossville, Sweetwater now known as I-75 raceway (back when it was a huge track we was going 120-130mph in a super street or B Hobby car on dirt it was too big of a track and that's all of the tracks we've raced at.

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99GreenStang · Sep 15, 2015

I found a C4 Built with heavy clutches and a reverse manual valve body I can get for 350 or I've got a gun the guy is interested in so I could just swap him that. Does anyone know what I would need in order to swap a C4 in? Also opinions on RMVB and would this stuff work with my BM hammer shifter? Thanks

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lwarrior1016 · Sep 16, 2015

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gt-sohc/1480777-poor-mans-junkyard-2v-5.html

That's the link to the guy that put a vacuum modulator and manual valve body on his. If you can get the c4 cheap and it it bolts up to the engine then go for it. I know you will need the crossmember, driveshaft, shifter, and a vacuum line for the modulator. Im not sure how the adaptive to the engine goes. I know [MENTION=18292]Wichers123[/MENTION] had a c4 in his but he has a mod motor.

99GreenStang · Sep 16, 2015

Okay I called and talked to Ford Racing. They suggested to go with an AOD instead of a C4 because an AOD is the same transmission as a 4R70W it just doesn't have the wide ratio and it's not electronically controlled. The benefits of the AOD compared to the C4 is that the AOD has overdrive.

He said it shouldn't require a different drive shaft because they are the same transmission (given there not available in different lengths) and the flex plate that I'm using now has to be the right one he said so I don't need that either.

So I've got the flex plate, the driveshaft will work, the stock crossmember should work he said, AOD from 93 and back are all non electronically controlled, get the Wide Ratio gear set from the 4R70W put into the AOD (they are interchangeable), run a manual valve body on the AOD and I don't need a TV cable.

The AOD is the same exact transmission as the 4R70W it just isn't electronically controlled (which is what I want) and it doesn't have a wide gear ratio (which I can swap over to the AOD from the 4R70W). So I'm going with an AOD.

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lwarrior1016 · Sep 16, 2015

That sounds like a plan!

99GreenStang · Sep 16, 2015

In search of a good AOD now. Found one for 200 bucks with a fresh rebuild supposedly has about 15k on it since rebuild. Seller offered a money back guarantee. So I may end up buying this unless I find something else even better!

My transmission guy said he would replace:

Planetary gears of the AOD with the wide ratio ones from the 4R70W

Install the FMVB on the AOD

Install new racing clutches and inspect the transmission and install some super thing he mentioned?

He said if I provide the parts he will charge me 150 labor to do all of this. This seems like a VERY fair deal to me. Shits finally starting to look up and that's what worries me because something bad has to happen sooner or later I'm becoming skeptical hahaha!

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99GreenStang · Sep 16, 2015

Sorry for all of the indecisiveness but considering the price difference of buying all these parts for the AOD I'm just gonna upgrade the 4R70W with a FMVB and have my transmission guy check it out. Be way cheaper, no modifications, and I know it fits.

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99GreenStang · Sep 16, 2015

Planning on going with the silver fox full manual valve body it's 500 bucks shipped and he gives you 40 bucks back when you send your old valve body to him as a core. So in reality only 460 bucks for a full manual valve body for my 4R70W. It's gonna be 4 weeks before the guy makes more valve bodies though but at his price I cannot argue I'll wait very patiently lol. Plans as of now are to just buy the full manual valve body from him and and install it myself. I'm not going to remove the transmission and take it to the transmission guy for him to install the valve body and do upgrades. So I'm just going to leave the trans in the car and install the full manual valve body myself.

While I'm waiting the 4 weeks for him to build more valve bodies I will get the carburetor choke situated now that I don't have that shitty TPS bracket and sensor to worry about anymore. Getting rid of that Bauhman Electronic junk was probably the best thing I've done for this car in 3 years haha. The controller isn't so bad it's the inferior TPS mounting kits they make for carburetors with an electric choke (Bahuman doesn't make a TPS kit for a Holley with a choke so they sell Holley's junk pile kit with their product) it's like if you go through all the trouble to make this awesome transmission controller than spend a few extra hours and come up with a TPS kit that is worth a shit and works great with your product. It's like having a car that runs great without any wheels, doesn't matter how good it runs because it ain't going anywhere without the wheels. Relevance? Doesn't matter how good the transmission controller works if the TPS kit is an inferior product that holds it back. It's not rocket science... Or is it? I could never tell? Ha

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Wichers123 · Sep 17, 2015

The only thing your gonna have to wire up is the overdrive switch. And the lock up for the converter

99GreenStang · Sep 17, 2015

Mhmm. Thanks Wichers123 I was aware of that. The Manual Valve body comes with the harness to do that.

Thanks,

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99GreenStang · Oct 16, 2015

Well been at a standstill. I sent the Quick Fuel carb back it was doing some funny stuff. You could increase the idle speed (drivers side of car) and the throttle would start pulling back and increasing as it should and then it would lose tension and you could continue tightening it and it would FINALlY take and hold tension and increase as it should. The electric choke also was a ***** to try and set.

Moving along I've actually been tempted to sell the car but I'm SO close to having it drive able and if I sold it not running and driving I would take a HUGE loss! So if your keeping up with my thread you know that I either need a manual valve body, a better electronic transmission controller, or a different non electronic transmission. I've been thinking how hard would it be to swap in a T5? I'm also on the lookout for a good Eldelbrock or Quadrajet carb maybe even a manual choke one. What's everyone's opinions? I don't want to sink a ton more of money into this thing but I also realize at the same time that if I don't make it at least run then I will take a huge loss if I decide to sell. I'd really like to just get a good manual choke carb throw it on there and make it run and then sell it and let someone else deal with the transmission. What's everyone's thoughts?

Thanks

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evilcw311 · Oct 16, 2015

Put the 5.0 efi back in and let it do what it's suppose to do.

Just a thought

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Burninriverdiver · Oct 17, 2015

As a fan of this build, I'd hate to see you sell it... That being said, I would understand the frustration of it. I think bringing in a fresh set of eyes to help you out might solve some of the problems. I've always had luck asking my buddies that have vehicle backgrounds for opinions when I get cornered. Sometimes it just helps to have an outsider look at what you are stuck on

chris91 · Oct 17, 2015

I'd swap in a t5 if it was me. Just makes the car much more fun. Now if it was a BIG hp car I'd understand keeping a auto in it. That and t5's are a dime a dozen these days. And you can find a clutch pedal assembly at a junkyard for cheap.

Shit, I'll even get ya started. I have a clutch cable you can have for free, just pay for shipping.