GUYS that relocated your battery!!

RichV · Dec 15, 2012

Jegs sells a battery relocation kit which worked great for my application.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS%20Performance%20Products/555/10275/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroikwd=jegs&gclid=CLyhzfbVnLQCFQhyQgod-SwANw

I had some left over, but I went into the passenger seat area with my battery and box. You probably want to use some sort of box, incase that sucker leaks at some point. Currenly from your battery there is a wire that goes from the positive terminal directly to the starter (big wire) and from the positive to the fuse box (smaller wire). The big and small wire should come together at the positive terminal. To relocate, the easiest way is to go to a Home Depot in the electrical section and buy a split-bolt, looks like this...

Remove your positive terminal with some cutters, strip the big and small wire back and inch or so, do the same with the end of your extension wire and joint them together with the split-bolt, then wrap the split bolt with insulation tape and/or some heat shrink. Or, you can use the extension cable and go directly to the starter, as suggested, but remember you will have to also split a smaller line to the fusebox. The ground can be short, somewhere close to the battery. just make sure and get some sandpaper or do a little grinding to get bare metal where you attach to. Try and use the thickest metal you can rather than flimsy sheetmetal.

That's all I got. Except when I removed my battery it was all rusty and nasty under it, so be ready to do some repair in there as well.

ttocs · Dec 15, 2012

Rich not sure if yours is different but on the 302's its much easier just to slap a ring terminal on it and then to the same point the power wire will go too. There are a number of different ways I could recomend making the connection but to put a solid lug that size onto a powe wire is just asking for the insulation to dry out after some time and have it short out. Not sure that is made for an automotive environment honestly.

RichV · Dec 15, 2012

Ya, I can see your point. I've had it like that for years without issues, but it has a healthy wrap of rubber tape on it and zip-tied to prevent vibration.

They also make insulated aluminum barrel style connectors like this. But you only need a single terminal, just how much $ you want to spend.

Musturd · Dec 15, 2012

95opal said:
What musturd said plus use the thickest wire you can find. I prefer 0 welding wire

That's how I did mine zero gauge welding wire. I loved that stuff when I used to do hydraulic installs on my lowriders as a kid. I've never had a issue. Welding wire is better insulated its the reason me and opal prefer it. Less prone to corrosion from what I've seen over the years and I was running 72 volts to the nose of my hopper and never had any melting issues or nothing.

The stuff that comes in the battery kit is fine and will work great for you tony

Tony · Dec 15, 2012

0 gauge welding wire? fuuk, wouldnt that be a biitch to tuck and run all the way to the trunk? or is it pretty easy to bend that shit?

Steve-Oh · Dec 15, 2012

Just throwing in my opinion to agree with others that using welding lead is a great idea. Also just to reiterate that you should run the wire directly to the starter from the battery and then from the starter to the fuse box. If I remember correctly that's how it was run on my car from the factory.

Sent from Space

ttocs · Dec 15, 2012

I ran dual 0 awg in my install.

Tony · Dec 15, 2012

ok, just to understand what you guys are saying. i need to run a starter wire from my trunk where the battery will be all the way up to the starter? i cant just keep the starter wire on the starter and just move the end connected to the battery over to the fuse box post? i am confused on what you're saying with the starter wire, lol.

also with the ground...can i just simply ground the battery to the trunk (metal) and the ground that was connected to the battery just simply get rid of it?

96TANGERINEGT · Dec 15, 2012

Hey , Tony good idea on moving the battery . I thought about doing this myself , but dam after reading all this , move this wire here , cut this wire here, ground here but be sure to ground here too. **** i need a beer . And that dam battery can stay where the hell it is .. Hahahahahaha Lmfao. I dont have the ambition for all that ...

ttocs · Dec 15, 2012

one more time tony - The starter wire currently goes from the starter selenoid to the battery now. When you disconnect it from the battery, slap a ring terminal on it, and then mount that wire to the fusebox power lug. Now run your new power wire from that same lug, back to your trunk to the new battery location.

Upgrade the ground from the block to the chassis.
Fuse the power wire 12" from the battery.

whiplash473 · Dec 15, 2012

tangerine it really aint that bad.....wiring always sounds horrible when its read online but this is a simple thing to take care of

Tony · Dec 15, 2012

lol, scott. just trying to clear up all the different suggestions. thanks fellas. be done tomorrow!

96TANGERINEGT · Dec 15, 2012

whiplash473 said:
tangerine it really aint that bad.....wiring always sounds horrible when its read online but this is a simple thing to take care of

Hahaha, after reading all that I needed a beer ... lmao.

96TANGERINEGT · Dec 15, 2012

Steve-Oh said:
Just throwing in my opinion to agree with others that using welding lead is a great idea. Also just to reiterate that you should run the wire directly to the starter from the battery and then from the starter to the fuse box. If I remember correctly that's how it was run on my car from the factory.

Sent from Space

STEVE-OH ................

Text by Samuel Adams .. hahahaha