96TANGERINEGT
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GUYS that relocated your battery!!
- Thread starter Tony
- Start date
If you're ever planning on running at the drag strip, ever, you need to run a battery cutoff switch as well. This will involve running the alternator power wire all the way back to the trunk. That wire, along with the positive wire from the battery, will attach to one end of the switch. The ground from the battery runs straight to the frame rail. The other side of the switch runs forward in the car to power the fuse box. I used 2 awg for the alternator, and welding cable for the remaining power and ground wires.
Here's a picture of my recently completed, NHRA-compliant setup, complete with Flaming River cutoff switch.
Paul.
Here's a picture of my recently completed, NHRA-compliant setup, complete with Flaming River cutoff switch.
Paul.
whiplash473
Post Whore
wow thats a real nice setup ^
thanks paul...however this is not for any kind of performance upgrade. just simply an attempt to clean up my engine bay. i have my battery in a perfect spot right behind my back seat dead center and shoved up as far as it will go to the back of the seat. i need to find some way to hide it (bright red optima) shit sticks out like a sore thumb, lol.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
can't wait for the day I pull up behind paul.
whiplash473
Post Whore
i know its just nice and clean....you dont have excess cable or a crap lookin box.....just a clean setup
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
Your confusing your fantasy with mine again.
Yeah, I know... but, seriously, if you EVER plan to race at the track, they just flat won't let you. That kinda sucks, so I figure just do per NHRA rules.
I won't have the rod threaded on when I'm cruising around. I'll just put it on when I go to the track. I could just see some jackass push my kill switch for no reason.
Paul.
daves94vert
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Started mine a couple weeks ago
Haven't had much time to work on it.
This is the diagram I'm basing off of.
Haven't had much time to work on it.
This is the diagram I'm basing off of.
ok so i grounded the battery to the upper shock mount. will that work form my ground? i ran the power wire from my fuse box through the fire wall and have relocated the starter wire to the fuse box post as well. sound good fellas or is there something i missed?
i know i need a 200amp fuse, havent got that yet but will before i'm complete.
i know i need a 200amp fuse, havent got that yet but will before i'm complete.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
as long as you scrapped the paint away before mounting it you should be fine. I cannot express how important that is as I have seen people that just threw a screw and called it a day. Its amazing how hot that screw can get with some resistance added in with time.
yea scott, i def scraped away the paint. always do when i ground. i always hear people saying you have to run your alt. wire to your battery and fuse that??? cant seem to wrap my head around why that is necessary, lol.
i'm tempted to fuukin paint this dam battery...really dont wanna big ass battery box in my little ass trunk. this red top is like a big ass stop sign sittin in the trunk, lol. hmmmm...what to do...
i'm tempted to fuukin paint this dam battery...really dont wanna big ass battery box in my little ass trunk. this red top is like a big ass stop sign sittin in the trunk, lol. hmmmm...what to do...
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
you don't understand why you would fuse your alternator powe wire? I did because a $1 fuse is alot easier to replace then a alt/voltage regulator..... I am crazy like that though........
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
its not necessary, not a rule, but yes I do it myself. It seemed like you were asking for the bare necessities though and at the same time you were talking about cleaning up your engine bay, this would not help that. Don't mistake my sarcastic truth to mean I was talking down to you or trying to be a dick, it just comes naturally and is generally the easiest way to get the point across as well. In this case it is the truth that its easier and cheaper to replace a fuse then the voltage regulator in the alt that will go out if that wire shorts out.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
sorry if I went over that line. I spend most of my day tip-toeing across it and do not realize sometimes when I am across it.
Most people do not bother with the wire when moving a battery. I did upgrade it and if you upgrade your ground wires that wire will now be your choke point for your charging system.
Most people do not bother with the wire when moving a battery. I did upgrade it and if you upgrade your ground wires that wire will now be your choke point for your charging system.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
wow.
i came in super late, but here's a quick run-down of my set-up tony.
You have two options. the easy way. and the hard way.
Easy way:
Run the power cable on the outside of the car. (Last I checked, NHRA had no rules on where you can run the wire. This may have changed since 2010 when I ran mine.)
hard way:
Run the power cable on the inside of the car.
As mentioned, maintain engine grounds at the front of the car, and add a new ground to the back of the car.
to be NHRA legal you must have a quick disconnect switch on the rear of the car. (I'm not going into that because it looks like everyone covered it.)
What we did on mine:
Left the OEM wiring up front (as if the battery were still there.)
We grounded the OEM battery ground to the car.
We placed a kill switch at the other cable's location.
we used this kill switch for two reasons:
This gave us an easy way to bump up the guage of the wire
It gave us an easy way to impliment new wiring
It gives us an easy access to killing the battery's power when working on the car.
Next, we ran *welding cable* to the trunk of the car. (its got a stronger insulation that standard sterio wire.)
We went to the *inside* of my car (the hard way.)
To do this you have to remove the wheel-well cover, guage a good location to perice the firewall, and take a drill to it...
(the big red/black wire is my line.)
We ran the wire under the OEM Wiring harness retainer uner the carpet (next to the drivers side seat)
then we periced two more holes in the back-seat support to enter the chamber under the back seat.
we then entered the trunk by going behind the interior pannels.
we then crossed from the drivers side of the trunk to the passengers side by going through the holes in the trunk lid
in this picture you can see how we grounded the back:
we took a peice of tubular steal and welded it directly to the car. The green welding cable is my ground to the battery.
When picking a box, only the Moroso Blue Tub is the only plastic NHRA option. If you go with metal, there are many more options avalable.
the bonus to using the plastic box? We added those two jumper points on the side for easy access
Let me know if you have any questions on my set up! Everyone here seems to be super smart about all this. so, everythings been covered. I just wanted to give you another option of using two kill switches (one at teh front) to save some headache...
i came in super late, but here's a quick run-down of my set-up tony.
You have two options. the easy way. and the hard way.
Easy way:
Run the power cable on the outside of the car. (Last I checked, NHRA had no rules on where you can run the wire. This may have changed since 2010 when I ran mine.)
hard way:
Run the power cable on the inside of the car.
As mentioned, maintain engine grounds at the front of the car, and add a new ground to the back of the car.
to be NHRA legal you must have a quick disconnect switch on the rear of the car. (I'm not going into that because it looks like everyone covered it.)
What we did on mine:
Left the OEM wiring up front (as if the battery were still there.)
We grounded the OEM battery ground to the car.
We placed a kill switch at the other cable's location.
we used this kill switch for two reasons:
This gave us an easy way to bump up the guage of the wire
It gave us an easy way to impliment new wiring
It gives us an easy access to killing the battery's power when working on the car.
Next, we ran *welding cable* to the trunk of the car. (its got a stronger insulation that standard sterio wire.)
We went to the *inside* of my car (the hard way.)
To do this you have to remove the wheel-well cover, guage a good location to perice the firewall, and take a drill to it...
(the big red/black wire is my line.)
We ran the wire under the OEM Wiring harness retainer uner the carpet (next to the drivers side seat)
then we periced two more holes in the back-seat support to enter the chamber under the back seat.
we then entered the trunk by going behind the interior pannels.
we then crossed from the drivers side of the trunk to the passengers side by going through the holes in the trunk lid
in this picture you can see how we grounded the back:
we took a peice of tubular steal and welded it directly to the car. The green welding cable is my ground to the battery.
When picking a box, only the Moroso Blue Tub is the only plastic NHRA option. If you go with metal, there are many more options avalable.
the bonus to using the plastic box? We added those two jumper points on the side for easy access
Let me know if you have any questions on my set up! Everyone here seems to be super smart about all this. so, everythings been covered. I just wanted to give you another option of using two kill switches (one at teh front) to save some headache...
