HAHA Compression test

Jrgunn5150

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Not in the little bit you bumped it. It would show up all the time during driving though, it would run pretty erractically. With as many miles as you have, the chains should be replaced, unless you are really certain about the swap coming up.
 
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voidfinger

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I am but its going to take a while... should i just get chains or should i get the tentioners too.... and how much are they????
 

Jrgunn5150

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Chains are around 100, the tensioners should be fine, unless there is significant wear on the guides are something. I bought new chains when I built my current block, just because, I mean it was new so why not all new right? But for you, you will probably get away with it. It's just that you will be in there anyway, so why not while you are. And I'm not sure what kind of timetable you are looking at on your swap.
 

reivaxtorres

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whats wrong with the chains and high miles? mine have 158k miles and they looked good when we took them off, the guides one one side were barely fading from red to yellow, and the other side was still red.

PS. there was no slack in the chain links or anything
 
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voidfinger

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so the guides are color coded?? I never heard that... I'll check and see what they are like ... i hope i don't have to buy new ones ... thats just more money away for the CObra motor.
 

reivaxtorres

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voidfinger said:
so the guides are color coded?? I never heard that... I'll check and see what they are like ... i hope i don't have to buy new ones ... thats just more money away for the CObra motor.

no, the guides are supposed to be red plastic (i think nylon, actually) that as they wear down turn yellow (the part that the chain slides on, not the entire guide). my passanger side one was starting to show signs of yellow, while the drivers side was still completely red
 

Jrgunn5150

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reivaxtorres said:
whats wrong with the chains and high miles? mine have 158k miles and they looked good when we took them off, the guides one one side were barely fading from red to yellow, and the other side was still red.

PS. there was no slack in the chain links or anything

It's just when you get to high miles the chains are more likely to have stretched. Personally I would rather change them "while I'm at it" if you know what I mean. But he's going to be swapping a 32v shortly, so I wouldn't worry about it if it was in the cards in the next 30-40k.
 
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voidfinger

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yea it should be in by then. I hope... but as long as things don't look to bad in there i'm not going to worry about it...since i guess thats what the tentioners are for right :)
 

reivaxtorres

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voidfinger said:
so as long as its not completely yellow i should be fine then?

pretty much. you know those willy wonka everlasting gobstoppers? how they change colors, and the red ones go from the dark red to lighter red to orangish to yellow and then they are gone? same concept here, except they dont taste as good, lol

Jrgunn5150 said:
reivaxtorres said:
whats wrong with the chains and high miles? mine have 158k miles and they looked good when we took them off, the guides one one side were barely fading from red to yellow, and the other side was still red.

PS. there was no slack in the chain links or anything

It's just when you get to high miles the chains are more likely to have stretched. Personally I would rather change them "while I'm at it" if you know what I mean. But he's going to be swapping a 32v shortly, so I wouldn't worry about it if it was in the cards in the next 30-40k.

oh, ok, gotcha. for the sake of the argument, how would you be able to tell if they stretched or not? or can you even tell?
 

Jrgunn5150

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If they were really bad, it would make your crank sensor freak out pretty bad I imagine. But I've never had bad ones, or saw them. Like I said though, when I built my new motor, I just used new because it would suck to have to tear it down again for it. I've actually never even seen anyone on the boards comlaining that their's had gone bad either come to think of it.
 
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voidfinger

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I know a guy on corral that has a red 98 i think... its got over 200 k on his stock stuff plus its had a blower on the car since like 50k.

Then there is another guy that had 300k on his 96... no problems... had to go into the motor at 305K when it pucked a spark plug out and tored the head up... but that wasn't that bad ya know.

These are some remarkable motors on lasting...maybe not on power but they will out last the shit out of a ls1 ..... but i guess the ls1 might get you there faster but we will still be a trucken lol.
 

Dusstbuster

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Matt94GT said:
my car was 100/95/100/100/95/100/99/100 when we tested it? No where near 160? Diffrent on 5.0 or did we do it wrong?

The stroke in a 4.6 is ~3.5 and the 5.0 is ~3 so yeah it will more than likely have a lower CR. Like I said though it also depends on piston type, combustion chamber size, etc etc. A 1/2" stroke difference will account for some of it though.
 
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voidfinger

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from what i understand from talking to mechanics and stuff....9:1 is 9:1 on all cars. I'm assuming that the 5.0's are 9:1 also... Did you have a screw in type? Did you bump it over at least 4 times? Was the battery fully charged? Was the coil disconnected and ALL your spark plugs out? Was your throttle blocked open ? Thats all i can think of the proceddure i was told... let us know.
 

Jrgunn5150

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C/R doesn't affect cranking compression that much, Matt does your car have the stock cam in it? If so, and you followed the procedure Voidfinger pointed out, it sounds a little tired.
 

reivaxtorres

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voidfinger said:
from what i understand from talking to mechanics and stuff....9:1 is 9:1 on all cars. I'm assuming that the 5.0's are 9:1 also... Did you have a screw in type? Did you bump it over at least 4 times? Was the battery fully charged? Was the coil disconnected and ALL your spark plugs out? Was your throttle blocked open ? Thats all i can think of the proceddure i was told... let us know.

i thought the 4.6 and the 5.0 had different compression ratios?
 

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