Help Battery gauge and abk light on

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SN95.oh

SN95.oh

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If your voltage gauge pegs at 18, I assure you the alternator itself is probably fine. The regulator does what it's name is... it regulates the current from the alternator to the car. At idle, there will often be less output, say 12-13 volts. At 1500-3000 RPM, the alternator will usually put out its most power (both amps and volts). So if you check your battery at idle and see 12.5-13v, reach over and ramp the RPM up a little and the voltage should climb closer to 14.5 volts. If you're running the engine at 3,000 RPM and you're not getting at least 13v, then either the alternator or regulator are on the way out.

I'm still learning my way with my Mustang... but I recall older Fords having an external regulator.

The venting on the battery is bad news. If it blew "water" out of the battery, it would be a good idea to pull the battery and clean out the battery box area with baking soda and water. If you have an unsealed battery, do not get any baking soda mix into the battery. The baking soda will neutralize the acid. Left alone, that acid will damage any paint it runs/stands on. Will eventually lead to bad rust issues. Also, I would not drive the car until you get a new voltage regulator on it. Overcharging like it was CAN (not an absollute) cause the battery to explode. Most of the time, it just boils over and ruins the battery, though.... Also produces hydrogen gas.

can i drive it the 2 miles or less to the shop very slowly
 

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I will agree that I THINK it is the regulator but I have not yet ruled completely out what plugs into it but unfortunately the only way to really tell is to swap the alt and see
 

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Probably. If you're keeping the engine speed and watching that voltage gauge. If it pegs immediately, I wouldn't. You have to remember that the voltage isn't just going to the battery. It's going through the whole car. Newer cars are more sensitive to over-voltage. Computers can be finicky. Sometimes, you get by with no issues, sometimes you can end up with a burned up computer.

That's why the ABS light was coming on... something wasn't happy.
 
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SN95.oh

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Probably. If you're keeping the engine speed and watching that voltage gauge. If it pegs immediately, I wouldn't. You have to remember that the voltage isn't just going to the battery. It's going through the whole car. Newer cars are more sensitive to over-voltage. Computers can be finicky. Sometimes, you get by with no issues, sometimes you can end up with a burned up computer.

That's why the ABS light was coming on... something wasn't happy.
it seems that if im flooring it the over load happens..but if i baby it i think i should be ok....i have a 2006 Mercedes S430 as a daily, thing is a rolling computer
 

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IT is not uncommon for the voltage to sag a little while it idles. reving the motor will generally increase the voltage but it should never, EVER, EVEREVEREVEREVER get north of the 15-16 volt area. Bad things can happen, melting down a battery being the easiest to repair.
 
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IT is not uncommon for the voltage to sag a little while it idles. reving the motor will generally increase the voltage but it should never, EVER, EVEREVEREVEREVER get north of the 15-16 volt area. Bad things can happen, melting down a battery being the easiest to repair.
thats what i figured....................I limped it down to the mechanic, ran fine, voltage stayed at mid range....hoping this does the trick...... its odd because everything was fine.....however i did have a blue tooth connector in there, tried the A/C all at the same time???
 
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Update… driving as we speak… runs great… how does the meter look
 
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Replaced the alternator with another ultima reman… was under warranty… fingers crossed it holds up
 

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