Help/Opinion on my Suspension/Stance

ttocs

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yea unfortunately that was the only way I found that you can have your cake and eat it too with the stance question...
 
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yea unfortunately that was the only way I found that you can have your cake and eat it too with the stance question...
Yeah, I'd like to do the setup you have.


But I think I'd like to put that money towards other things for now.
 

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I've got the j-shaped/adjustable LCAs also and it works well. Don't forget the cheapest option -cutting coils. Espeicially since you're just adjusting the rear it'd work very well and you probably wouldn't even notice any difference.

for a little $$ you could have someone extend the shock mounting tabs on the rearend. That's the main issue I've found in going low out back -hard to find shocks where you are still in the sweetspot.

In the front I went with drop spindles so my geometry and shock lengths were all still stock, but my CofG was better.
 
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I've got the j-shaped/adjustable LCAs also and it works well. Don't forget the cheapest option -cutting coils. Espeicially since you're just adjusting the rear it'd work very well and you probably wouldn't even notice any difference.

for a little $$ you could have someone extend the shock mounting tabs on the rearend. That's the main issue I've found in going low out back -hard to find shocks where you are still in the sweetspot.

In the front I went with drop spindles so my geometry and shock lengths were all still stock, but my CofG was better.
Which LCA do you have?
I think the adjustable LCA is the option I want to go with.
 

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Just for reference, I've got 1in spacers on the front, and 1.5in on the rear and I'm not dead yet. I'd like to buy some quality non ebay ones like I have now, but again I'm not dead yet and I put more stress on them then they'd ever see on the road so you should be fine with them. Just get hubcentric ones if you do.
 

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Just for reference, I've got 1in spacers on the front, and 1.5in on the rear and I'm not dead yet. I'd like to buy some quality non ebay ones like I have now, but again I'm not dead yet and I put more stress on them then they'd ever see on the road so you should be fine with them. Just get hubcentric ones if you do.

H&R Hubcentric Spacers are what I run as well. no problems here and we run way stickier tires than any street tire.
 

kb1982

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J&M like these ones?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-jacker-lca-7998-race.html

So these adjustable control arms would come at a "stock height" Then I can simply just lower it and raise it as needed?
Sounds like a sweet deal to me.




335s on 10s? I heard 305 nittos were basically the max on 10s.

If you look at the customer pic in that link, that was submitted by me after I put them on my car. The only difference in the race ones are the solid spherical bushing on the axle side. They worked great for me. I used them to raise my car to get more tire clearance. I have unknown eibachs in the rear, and even with the fenders rolled, I was rubbing with 275/60/R15. An old school method I seen used by a local shop here to roll fenders is to use a baseball bat and have some friends sit in the trunk.
 
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Just for reference, I've got 1in spacers on the front, and 1.5in on the rear and I'm not dead yet. I'd like to buy some quality non ebay ones like I have now, but again I'm not dead yet and I put more stress on them then they'd ever see on the road so you should be fine with them. Just get hubcentric ones if you do.

H&R Hubcentric Spacers are what I run as well. no problems here and we run way stickier tires than any street tire.
Sweet! Well if you guys use the! I'm sure Ill be plenty safe running a good quality ones.
If you look at the customer pic in that link, that was submitted by me after I put them on my car. The only difference in the race ones are the solid spherical bushing on the axle side. They worked great for me. I used them to raise my car to get more tire clearance. I have unknown eibachs in the rear, and even with the fenders rolled, I was rubbing with 275/60/R15. An old school method I seen used by a local shop here to roll fenders is to use a baseball bat and have some friends sit in the trunk.
Thanks! I'll check out the pictures!
 

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Which LCA do you have?
I think the adjustable LCA is the option I want to go with.

I went with one of the cheapest I could find at the time -Granatelli. That was about 3yrs and 20k miles ago.
 

STR33TR

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Went and measured -just for kicks- my front fender is 24.5" from the ground and the rear is 27". Since I had measured it to be 28" front&rear when I started that means it's 1" down in back and 3.5" drop up front.
It rides better than a late model truck and handles better than a new mustang.
 
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No black Friday deals for my LCA. :(
well AM has $20 off anything over I think $150. So I could get them for $250.
 

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man quit playing around with silly ass isolaters and gay ass coils and get to baggin right fn now dammit!!





:)
 
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The MM ones are a little too much than I'm wanting to spend.

Plus free shipping doesn't apply to me... Still get raped at the border.
 

MadStang

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The MM ones are a little too much than I'm wanting to spend.

Plus free shipping doesn't apply to me... Still get raped at the border.

meh, my belief is do it right the first time or don't do it at all. if you can't afford to buy the MM arms yet then wait until you can IMO. Not like your car is going to explode from being a little higher in the rear.
 
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meh, my belief is do it right the first time or don't do it at all. if you can't afford to buy the MM arms yet then wait until you can IMO. Not like your car is going to explode from being a little higher in the rear.
J&m isn't cheaping out... I simply won't be pushing the limits that I'll need MM ones.
 

MadStang

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J&m isn't cheaping out... I simply won't be pushing the limits that I'll need MM ones.

J&M is in fact cheaping out much like granatelli. They copy Maximum Motorsports design to a lower quality.

Contrary to what most believe, street driving is more abusive than track racing on suspension. There's a reason why Griggs components come with a warning telling you not to use them on the street. only few companies that make suspension components capable of daily driven abuse is MM, Steeda, Team Z, and Baseline. Far too many horror stories from other companies about failing parts IMO
 

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