Here to learn a little more

[Whip1a5h]

Hello everyone,

I'm here to find weak points of the SN95 chassis for road course racing and show progress as I take this journey to try and work towards professional racing... Starting with this poor beat down Mustang I'm picking up in a couple of weeks to give it a new beginning

 

[96blak54]

Im not experience enough, but we have others here that are. Hang on, some one will chime in

Welcome to the forums.

 

[white95]

If you start at the front end and slowly work your way to the rear, you’ve discovered everything wrong with the SN95 for road course duty.

The best advice I can give is to start out with new tires, new brakes/fluid, a helmet and go learn to drive what you have. Don’t get wrapped up in spending your way to victory. You’ll wind up with a money pit you don’t know how to utilize properly. (Ask me how I know..) Once you get better at what you’re doing behind the wheel you’ll start to realize the weak points of your ride and will spend money properly.

 

[RAU03MACH]

First off welcome
There are a ton mods out there for your car
Just finding the right combos
That's the key
Every one here has a little bit of a twist to
As you read some of the builds or forums
There is a lot of good info
These guys have good knowledge here

 

[evilcw311]

And here this whole time I thought our cars just went straight!!!!! [emoji1787]

Learn it as you go as white said. Throwing money at stuff your not sure about yet won’t get you to where you want it to be.

Feel free to start a build thread to track your progress. Feel free to ask questions. We will help as much as a collective group can.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RAU03MACH]

I think I like being straight

 

[Whip1a5h]

I'm planning on using the car for Champ Car endurance racing so the most I'll do for the first time out for upgrades is tires, gears, cobra brakes (with dot4 fluid), suspension maintenance (bushings, springs, and shocks), and new exhaust


I'm going to also rebuild the diff and the trans as well as get a new long block for the car because it has 220k, burns a little oil, and just needs more time than it's worth to try and save the engine

 

[RAU03MACH]

There are are a few track road course guys here ,so they will hear you speak on what your thoughts are , get some opinions, you can't go wrong

 

[white95]

I'm going to also rebuild the diff and the trans as well as get a new long block for the car because it has 220k, burns a little oil, and just needs more time than it's worth to try and save the engine

It could be worth the effort to save the old long block and rebuild it as a spare. Fresh bearings, rings, seals and it could be good to go.

 

[Whip1a5h]

It could be worth the effort to save the old long block and rebuild it as a spare. Fresh bearings, rings, seals and it could be good to go.

That's a possibility. I won't just toss the engine to the scrap yard, It's going to depend on the actual condition of the engine itself though after it gets pulled and opened up

 

[white95]

That's a possibility. I won't just toss the engine to the scrap yard, It's going to depend on the actual condition of the engine itself though after it gets pulled and opened up

Those engines are famous for not wearing out unless they’re severely abused and neglected. Don’t be surprised if you still see the factory cross hatch marks in the cylinder bores.

 

[Boostr1]

Welcome.

 

[Addicted]

Welcome man. You have a great starting platform to work with. Forgive me if I missed it, but what year SN you got? This is a great place to learn different things.

 

[Whip1a5h]

Welcome man. You have a great starting platform to work with. Forgive me if I missed it, but what year SN you got? This is a great place to learn different things.

I'm working with a 1996 chassis

Those engines are famous for not wearing out unless they’re severely abused and neglected. Don’t be surprised if you still see the factory cross hatch marks in the cylinder bores.

Really they're that good?


Might need some new gaskets and bearings then to have a second engine

 

[Addicted]

I'm a big fan of the 94-98 SN, but I do like the 99-04's also. Since you are going to be going through the twisties in a '96, I would suggest sub-frame connectors first off, and I would also weld them in. Always remember, we can make half the stuff that most others buy. A total bushing kit all the way through everything. Get everything tight, track it, then you will be able to go with a certain control arm, different braces, ect...

 

[Addicted]

Really they're that good?


Might need some new gaskets and bearings then to have a second engine[/QUOTE]
You would be surprised at how good they are, look how long the police cars had them, I recently used my 85K mile engine as a mock up assembled, and the cross hatch was still very visible. If I was you, I would invest in every type of dial gauge, feeler gauge, and this alone can save you $.

 

[Whip1a5h]

You would be surprised at how good they are, look how long the police cars had them, I recently used my 85K mile engine as a mock up assembled, and the cross hatch was still very visible. If I was you, I would invest in every type of dial gauge, feeler gauge, and this alone can save you $.

I'm concerned I may find it very neglected (the title was dated in October 2018)

 

[Addicted]

I'm concerned I may find it very neglected (the title was dated in October 2018)

Do a leakdown on the cylinders, I don't get wrapped up in mileage because it's no a true indication of how the car really is. For all we know its the guides and seals making it smoke.

 

[Whip1a5h]

Do a leakdown on the cylinders, I don't get wrapped up in mileage because it's no a true indication of how the car really is. For all we know its the guides and seals making it smoke.

It doesn't smoke... It burns

 

[Addicted]

Junk it and find a lower mileage engine, there everywhere, or rebuild what you got.