How often do you change your oil?

[greenscobie86]

MotorCraft 5W-30 every 3k or a little less...

 

[MadStang]

How often do you change your oil?

5k running RP 10w30 and a K&N filter

be weary of Royal Purple, I used to run it until my machine shop advised against it. They say it chews up chain guides and tensioners on Modulars because it runs thinner than it's rated at (5w-30).

They told me to run mobil 1, it's cheaper and still a quality synthetic.

I change my oil every 3k... I'm very anal about my car being perfect.

 

[95PGTTech]

Technically synthetic oil should never have to be replaced because it doesn't break down. but i'm not willing to try it.

It gets dirty at the same rate that any conventional oil does, that's the scam. Unless you are running such a balls out race motor that it's at risk of physically breaking apart a conventional motor oil molecule, you're wasting your money.

 

[Steven]

If you start with a brand new car, running full synthetic, it would get less dirty, of a longer period of time.

 

[95PGTTech]

None of us have brand new cars.

 

[Steven]

I dont think this was referring to any particular car. Ive had brand new cars. Not to mention no one's died from me saying that.

 

[95PGTTech]

Not to imply that I agreed with this statement, as it has no factual basis.

If you start with a brand new car, running full synthetic, it would get less dirty, of a longer period of time.

I run what the manufacturer calls for, as that is what the motor was built for. I ran Motorcraft 5W-20 in the 4.6, and I'll run the OE oil in the chevy junk going in. Unless it is a built motor, I don't see the point - why re engineer the wheel?

 

[Rice_slayer]

GTTech, I understand what your are saying but some like the added protection/additives of synthetic oils. Also, if you live in a harsh winter climate as me where weather dips to -30* celsuis and to -50*celsuis with a windchill, having a synthetic oil helps alot as from my experiance, they seem to not become as "syruping" and usually help with cold starts. I don't have "scientific" proof of it, but I have proof that when I was running 5w30 full synthetic Mobil 1 on a -30 day, my car started like nothing, my boss' 2004 GMC envoy with conventional oil wouldn't start.

 

[94 DropTop]

My oil is free. Otherwise Im with you. All I use to use was motorcraft stuff. And my honda gets whatever is on sale at that point in time.

 

[Steven]

They tell you the weight, not synthetic or blend. They say either one is fine. Equally the same, factual proof hasn't been provided in this thread, let alone on the whole website but on the most remote of occasions, and it's in those few instances that you will ever see an actual valid argument made by someone much smarter then you or myself. I'm not in a pissing contest with you, but pulling out the check sheet demanding my time to prove some minuscule bull shit fact is not worth the time or thought. Done.

 

[95PGTTech]

GTTech, I understand what your are saying but some like the added protection/additives of synthetic oils. Also, if you live in a harsh winter climate as me where weather dips to -30* celsuis and to -50*celsuis with a windchill, having a synthetic oil helps alot as from my experiance, they seem to not become as "syruping" and usually help with cold starts. I don't have "scientific" proof of it, but I have proof that when I was running 5w30 full synthetic Mobil 1 on a -30 day, my car started like nothing, my boss' 2004 GMC envoy with conventional oil wouldn't start.

You're comparing two completely different vehicles. Cold starting will be determined by the oil weight. You can get the same additives put into dino oil as you can in synthetic.

STEVEN: Then why are you still posting here? Upping that valuable post count? The only "scientific" proof you'll find to back synthetic are conveniently in someone's pocket.

 

[Steven]

When you find your scientific proof to debunk mine, call me. Till then I'll be sure to hold my breathe.

 

[wytstang]

Owners manual only tell you what the manufactures recommends or which oil weight is preferred not what oil or weight you must run (94/95 manuals). Recommendations are just that recommendation and the only mandatory oil they say to use is one which bears the American Petroleum Institute certification mark.
So you can play with oil weights and or dino/syn type oils all you want. Just don't be stupid about it and run straight 50 weight in a daily driver with tight tolerances. Using 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 will not hurt our 5.0's on bit.

 

[Rice_slayer]

GTTech, I understand what your are saying but some like the added protection/additives of synthetic oils. Also, if you live in a harsh winter climate as me where weather dips to -30* celsuis and to -50*celsuis with a windchill, having a synthetic oil helps alot as from my experiance, they seem to not become as "syruping" and usually help with cold starts. I don't have "scientific" proof of it, but I have proof that when I was running 5w30 full synthetic Mobil 1 on a -30 day, my car started like nothing, my boss' 2004 GMC envoy with conventional oil wouldn't start.

You're comparing two completely different vehicles. Cold starting will be determined by the oil weight. You can get the same additives put into dino oil as you can in synthetic.

STEVEN: Then why are you still posting here? Upping that valuable post count? The only "scientific" proof you'll find to back synthetic are conveniently in someone's pocket.

If it helps any, we were both running 5w30. Search Synthetic vs conventional oil on google, the additives in synthetic oil help it to flow better on cold starts...

 

[OnyxCobra]

PGTTech are you saying there is no benefit to running synthetic oil?

 

[Dysfunction]

Sounds bad... But about 6-8k. There's no use in changing it every 3. And last time I changed it at about 5 the stuff was still wasn't black, It actually almost looked new. Synthetic only though, Would never think of pushing dino oil that long.

 

[95PGTTech]

PGTTech are you saying there is no benefit to running synthetic oil?

Not to justify the cost, especially in those of us running OEM longblocks. Synthetic oil wasn't available to the point it is now when the designs were being put into production for these motors. They were engineered to use a certain kind of oil, I suggest you all do that. I'd be willing to bet good money that someone who changes their oil regularly according to how hard they beat the car is going to have a motor that is in a lot better shape after 200K miles than someone who spends $6+/qt on fancy shit but lets it go a little bit longer, given the same conditions for both motors.

 

[modo]

usually every 3-6 months as i put minimal miles on it. gets pennzoil 3623, brad penn, or valvoline vr1 - 20w-50

 

[Dysfunction]

PGTTech are you saying there is no benefit to running synthetic oil?

Not to justify the cost, especially in those of us running OEM longblocks. Synthetic oil wasn't available to the point it is now when the designs were being put into production for these motors. They were engineered to use a certain kind of oil, I suggest you all do that. I'd be willing to bet good money that someone who changes their oil regularly according to how hard they beat the car is going to have a motor that is in a lot better shape after 200K miles than someone who spends $6+/qt on fancy SH*T but lets it go a little bit longer, given the same conditions for both motors.

So you have no facts... Just opinion? Walmart Synthetic oil change jugs aren't that expensive for 5+qts, Which is still a bit more expensive then dino oil, yes, but I don't change my oil as much, nor do I have the need to. In cold weather Synthetic will always flow better on the initial start up, which is where most of engine wear generally comes from. NOT because of the additives, just because of the nature of the beast. Not the mention synthetic does not contain the crude compounds within it that could cause engine sludge if you wait a little longer to change it. Which equates to an all around cleaner engine, and perhaps a longer lasting engine. That's debatable on how it was treated/driven from previous owners.

Soooo... I'm failing to see a benefit to running dino oil over synthetic except cost.. And frankly cost is negated as there's no need to change oil every 3k because it doesn't break down as rapidly as dino oil. And if for some reason you do stretch out your oil change a bit longer... Isn't the added insurance of synthetic worth it? And lets not forget the air filter when talking about cleanliness of an engine.. If you're still running a paper filter, shame on you.

 

[95PGTTech]

PGTTech are you saying there is no benefit to running synthetic oil?

Not to justify the cost, especially in those of us running OEM longblocks. Synthetic oil wasn't available to the point it is now when the designs were being put into production for these motors. They were engineered to use a certain kind of oil, I suggest you all do that. I'd be willing to bet good money that someone who changes their oil regularly according to how hard they beat the car is going to have a motor that is in a lot better shape after 200K miles than someone who spends $6+/qt on fancy SH*T but lets it go a little bit longer, given the same conditions for both motors.

So you have no facts... Just opinion? Walmart Synthetic oil change jugs aren't that expensive for 5+qts, Which is still a bit more expensive then dino oil, yes, but I don't change my oil as much, nor do I have the need to. In cold weather Synthetic will always flow better on the initial start up, which is where most of engine wear generally comes from. NOT because of the additives, just because of the nature of the beast. Not the mention synthetic does not contain the crude compounds within it that could cause engine sludge if you wait a little longer to change it. Which equates to an all around cleaner engine, and perhaps a longer lasting engine. That's debatable on how it was treated/driven from previous owners.

Soooo... I'm failing to see a benefit to running dino oil over synthetic except cost.. And frankly cost is negated as there's no need to change oil every 3k because it doesn't break down as rapidly as dino oil. And if for some reason you do stretch out your oil change a bit longer... Isn't the added insurance of synthetic worth it? And lets not forget the air filter when talking about cleanliness of an engine.. If you're still running a paper filter, shame on you.

In cold weather Synthetic will always flow better on the initial start up, which is where most of engine wear generally comes from.

Any sources to back that up that aren't back door funded by synthetic companies? Cold flow rate is determined by the SAE rated viscosity-5W30 dino and 5W30 synthetic will both flow the same as when cold...in fact, they'll flow the same as 5W40 or 5W50 when cold.

Not the mention synthetic does not contain the crude compounds within it that could cause engine sludge if you wait a little longer to change it.

Sludge is caused by improperly long oil change intervals versus abuse taken, and nothing else. You should, under no circumstances, be "wanting to wait a little longer." The oil change interval is the oil change interval, period. Wanting to wait longer is pure laziness.

Which equates to an all around cleaner engine, and perhaps a longer lasting engine. That's debatable on how it was treated/driven from previous owners.

Based on the last response, proper oil change intervals for the abuse the vehicle sees is the key to a clean, long lasting engine. Not spending $8/quart or whatever the snake oil is up to these days.

Soooo... I'm failing to see a benefit to running dino oil over synthetic except cost.

I'm failing to see a benefit to running synthetic oil over dino oil AT ALL.

And frankly cost is negated as there's no need to change oil every 3k because it doesn't break down as rapidly as dino oil.

The oil is dirty at 3K. Synethic, dino, water, whatever you run, is going to be dirty after those miles/abuse. That's why it's changed, not because it breaks down. The engine creates byproducts which you don't want sitting in there...the job of the oil is (in part) to get that junk out. The filter takes care of some of it, but not nearly all of it. Your street car doesn't experience anywhere near the stresses required to break down an oil molecule until well after your oil change interval.

And if for some reason you do stretch out your oil change a bit longer... Isn't the added insurance of synthetic worth it?

See reasons for stretching out oil changes above. See debatable "insurance" above. Yes, I'll rest assured that my $8/quart times 7 quarts of junk isn't going to break down because my fat lazy ass couldn't find the ten minutes to change the oil. I just won't worry that I'm circulating this dirty junk throughout my engine...as long as it doesn't break down, I'm good to go.


I don't even know why the hell you start talking about air filters. I get it - you watched a bunch of commercials with robots, hot girls driving sports cars, and you saw a bunch of people online posting and referencing synethic oil backed-"unbiased testing" and you want to justify putting $50+ into your engine every 3 months, and then think it's going to last you 5000 miles. I get it, if I was that stupid and dropped that kind of dime on some useless junk I'd try and justify it every which way too. But if this shit was so great, so epic, why do most major vehicle manufacturers still build their vehicles even 2011 model years now and don't call for a synthetic oil?