how would you cheaply get to the 11 second mark?

[TRUUBLE]

If slomaros weighed 1500 pounds, you would never see any other kind of car at the drag strip.

 

[Dairy King]

I think he meant just the shell. No interior, motor, glass, hell even floorboards. If I read him correctly.

 

[SRT Handz]

If slomaros weighed 1500 pounds, you would never see any other kind of car at the drag strip.

if they were 1500 lbs, every racer for any motorsport would use it.....a 1500 lbs road race car= ultimate handling

 

[low9sGT hahajk]

GSXR1000 - 11's without coming out of first gear

 

[vermilion]

man 11s in any car isnt cheap. thats my .02s

 

[19mustang95]

cheapest way is to buy a tow strap and hook it up to a 10 second car.... :hammer:

 

[xsoutherngun89x]

cheapest way is to buy a tow strap and hook it up to a 10 second car.... :hammer:

:lol: :rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh:

 

[realitygt]

I'm not saying it weighs 1500 lbs all together.. jesus, calm down. It weighed in at 3600 fully equipped. Now there is nothing on it.... i just said a number and everyone has to act like it's the end of the world.

now that there have been 10 posts reiterating the fact that it doesn't weigh 1500 lbs can we get back to the part where we get to 11 seconds again.

Like I said, how would you guys do it, if you were going to get down to 11 seconds.

 

[Black97GT]

Cheapest way is definitely nitrous, some suspension, super sticky tires.

Even thats prolly not going to be that cheap. Cheap and "in the 11's" is not the most friendly combo.

 

[realitygt]

Cheapest way is definitely nitrous, some suspension, super sticky tires.

Even thats prolly not going to be that cheap. Cheap and "in the 11's" is not the most friendly combo.

well I'm hoping they'll get acquainted pretty soon.

and nitrous is sounding better and better as a choice but i think it will be too unreliable for consistent times.

im thinking about going with a 383 stroker from powerhouse because it will be much cheaper (350's are like the 5-0s)

but i just don't think ill get the power out of it that i want. idk im stuck...

 

[realitygt]

forever I've always said I'm not going to use a 350 in my car cause everyone has one, but you can't argue with how cheap everything is for it. It's gonna be a 383 stroker. you guys probably don't care that much....idk, we'll see how everything turns out.

 

[Lightning Struck]

cheapest way is to buy a tow strap and hook it up to a 10 second car.... :hammer:

:rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh:

 

[WyoTechMSA]

Like I said, how would you guys do it, if you were going to get down to 11 seconds.

We ALL told you, nitrous small black with an auto and slicks but you said "No I wanna go big block with a 6spd and blah blah blah." Even if youve changed your mind now and are going with a 383 and MAYBE nitrous theres still that little issue in the fact that the car isnt even structurally sound.

 

[FUK_N_JUNK]

Push it down a 10sec. mine shaft :rollinglaugh:

No seriously, finally something I HAVE DONE and can contribute to...

I'm gonna guess it's a 3rd gen car?

1st thing you want to do is get rid of the 10bolt cause it will snap 1st time out (you got a 7.5, your buddy has a 8.5)
Build a nice SBC ( I did mine for under $3K)
Use aftermarket LCA/Torque Arm/Anti-roll bar
Gut the car
27/11.5/15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets
SUBFRAME CONNECTORS ARE A MUST!!!!
SPray a 150 shot to it... walla your done.


I built my car in 6 days in my garage last year in April (didnt have a car at the time to drive for summer racing) and it did a best of 10.90 @121...... 1.65 60's though :'(

 

[LAFENATU]

FAST, CHEAP, RELIABLE




Pick 2.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

There is no cheap way to get into the 11's. Your car is big and heavy. If you get it down to 2500lbs be very very happy.

You will need to bore it, port it, forge it, cam it, balance it, single plane, and put a big a$$ carb on top that is not to big, plus all the little things that will need to be replaced like, distributer, coil, valve springs and retainers, rockers, bearings, rods, pistons, rings, oil pump, miscelaneous hardware, machine shop work, like boring the cylinders, opening up the oil passages, balancing everything. That will cost you more than 3k, alot more.

As far as the trans goes, dump the stick, they are to inconsistant. If you miss a gear your engine is junk. Get a power glide.

The only cheap way is to spray the piss out of it.

 

[realitygt]

Like I said, how would you guys do it, if you were going to get down to 11 seconds.

We ALL told you, nitrous small black with an auto and slicks but you said "No I wanna go big block with a 6spd and blah blah blah." Even if youve changed your mind now and are going with a 383 and MAYBE nitrous theres still that little issue in the fact that the car isnt even structurally sound.

what, you think I'm going to keep the holes in the floor boards along with a stock suspension? I will probably end up going with a 383 with nitrous or a blower on it, but I want it to be streetable too, that's why I'm going with a stick, If all I was going to do was go to the track and trailer it there, I would go with a auto, but I'll drive it there and back.

Push it down a 10sec. mine shaft :rollinglaugh:

No seriously, finally something I HAVE DONE and can contribute to...

I'm gonna guess it's a 3rd gen car?

1st thing you want to do is get rid of the 10bolt cause it will snap 1st time out (you got a 7.5, your buddy has a 8.5)
Build a nice SBC ( I did mine for under $3K)
Use aftermarket LCA/Torque Arm/Anti-roll bar
Gut the car
27/11.5/15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets
SUBFRAME CONNECTORS ARE A MUST!!!!
SPray a 150 shot to it... walla your done.


I built my car in 6 days in my garage last year in April (didnt have a car at the time to drive for summer racing) and it did a best of 10.90 @121...... 1.65 60's though :'(

lol, it's actually a 2nd gen but I get what you're saying
is that everything you had done to your car? I think the 10 bolt will be fine with beefed up gears/axles, although If i find a 12 bolt I'll put it in. I'm planning on the sbc now, but I'm sticking with a man trans

There is no cheap way to get into the 11's. Your car is big and heavy. If you get it down to 2500lbs be very very happy.

You will need to bore it, port it, forge it, cam it, balance it, single plane, and put a big a$$ carb on top that is not to big, plus all the little things that will need to be replaced like, distributer, coil, valve springs and retainers, rockers, bearings, rods, pistons, rings, oil pump, miscelaneous hardware, machine shop work, like boring the cylinders, opening up the oil passages, balancing everything. That will cost you more than 3k, alot more.

As far as the trans goes, dump the stick, they are to inconsistant. If you miss a gear your engine is junk. Get a power glide.

The only cheap way is to spray the piss out of it.

Im getting all the machine work/ hot tanking done for free, and all the internal parts for wholesale price(like a meziere water pump for $45)

If I miss a gear, how will my engine be junk, unless I'm spraying? A powerglide is way too much money for my budget. I would If i could



right now I have about 600 to order all the body panels/interior which will be soon. making 200 every 2 weeks doesn't help money wise either, So i'm counting on some body panels/upgrade parts for christmas

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

You did not say you had a cheap way for parts and labor, that makes a huge differance in costs.

Miss a gear engine go boom. Big blocks don't like big RPM's, to much mass to move. Most don't like going over 6k, be smart enough to use a rev limiter.

Take it from somebody who used to drag race a 4spd. I ran a 1968GT, 428CJ, with a top loader 4spd. I went through 2 clutches a year minimum. My car was very capable of running very low 12's if not high 11's. I had 2 major problems. 1) 4spd, I was very inconsistant, and never really got it down pat. 2) Gears, I had made a poor gear choice.

My best time was a 12.58 @ 113mph. My speed was there, but I lost alot of time due to poor shifting and hitting the rev limiter in or just before the speed traps. Between the 2 problems I definately lost 1/2 a second.

I let a guy drive it who had been running a stick for years and he ran a 12.33 @114mph. He drove the car one time only. If he was familiar with it he could have been into the 12.20's. This guy was good, he made a 4spd car sound like it had an automatic trans in it.

 

[FUK_N_JUNK]

That was about it, it had a built 355 w/TH350 trans and a 9" w/4.11 gears, all motor it ran 11.40's and the 150 shot put it down to a 10.90

And for your info, my car weighed in at 3276lbs w/o driver


We have stripped the car down to a shell (nothing but the frame/body.... no glass or t-tops) and it weighed 2900 lbs, these cars weight a lot and it will take lots of HP to get it moving.

My stripped down S-10 weighed in at 2700 w/o driver for gods sake!!

 

[FUK_N_JUNK]

You did not say you had a cheap way for parts and labor, that makes a huge differance in costs.

Miss a gear engine go boom. Big blocks don't like big RPM's, to much mass to move. Most don't like going over 6k, be smart enough to use a rev limiter.

Take it from somebody who used to drag race a 4spd. I ran a 1968GT, 428CJ, with a top loader 4spd. I went through 2 clutches a year minimum. My car was very capable of running very low 12's if not high 11's. I had 2 major problems. 1) 4spd, I was very inconsistant, and never really got it down pat. 2) Gears, I had made a poor gear choice.

My best time was a 12.58 @ 113mph. My speed was there, but I lost alot of time due to poor shifting and hitting the rev limiter in or just before the speed traps. Between the 2 problems I definately lost 1/2 a second.

I let a guy drive it who had been running a stick for years and he ran a 12.33 @114mph. He drove the car one time only. If he was familiar with it he could have been into the 12.20's. This guy was good, he made a 4spd car sound like it had an automatic trans in it.

My s-10 witha blown head gasket was running 11.76 @113.... you should be well into the 11's with a good 60'...