Ignition starter switch wiring (bad hotwire)

BigBore96

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I brought a ECU with a preprogrammed key. I'm still switching around wires trying to get it to crank. So for I only got the radiator fan to turn on lol.
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Adfalenski

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2 weeks ago I replaced the dash in my 2000 Mustang. WARNING! I recommend getting the entire dash with installed wiring harness from a junkyard. I did not. Removing an old harness and replacing it into your present dash will have you diagnosing electrical problems for a while. Dash with harness removal and reinstallation as a complete unit is fairly straightforward. I would be happy to answer any further questions on the process.

Another problem I ran into was I lost all turn signals, brake lights, 4-way flashers, and cruise control. The problem was I accidentally stressed the wiring harnesses on the steering column while removing it and caused the harnesses to come apart on the top of the multifunction switch. The connections are located under the plastic steering column covers on the top surface of the multifunction switch. Part of removing the upper plastic piece is to remove the ignition key/lock from the column. Turn the ignition to run, insert a thin punch/screwdriver into the smaller hole in the lower plastic housing under the ignition key, push up, and remove the key/lockset.
 
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Gannon

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Wiring looks poor rn. I'm waiting to know the correct connections before I sauder the wires and make them look pretty lol.
 

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Gannon

Gannon

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2 weeks ago I replaced the dash in my 2000 Mustang. WARNING! I recommend getting the entire dash with installed wiring harness from a junkyard. I did not. Removing an old harness and replacing it into your present dash will have you diagnosing electrical problems for a while. Dash with harness removal and reinstallation as a complete unit is fairly straightforward. I would be happy to answer any further questions on the process.

Another problem I ran into was I lost all turn signals, brake lights, 4-way flashers, and cruise control. The problem was I accidentally stressed the wiring harnesses on the steering column while removing it and caused the harnesses to come apart on the top of the multifunction switch. The connections are located under the plastic steering column covers on the top surface of the multifunction switch. Part of removing the upper plastic piece is to remove the ignition key/lock from the column. Turn the ignition to run, insert a thin punch/screwdriver into the smaller hole in the lower plastic housing under the ignition key, push up, and remove the key/lockset.
Did you have to go tear it off a donor car at the salvage yard?
 

ttocs

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I can't figure out what is going on in that pic. Wiring is only overwhelming if you look at the big ball as one. Instead take one wire, any wire and then try to find the mate to it and figure out what needs to be done to do that.
 
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Gannon

Gannon

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Still no crank. If I can see mileage. Is it wired correctly?
 

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ttocs

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it means you have one of the ignition wires connected. There are normally at least 2. You probably have power to the dash/climate controls and radio but if you didn't hear the fuel pump fire up then you are still missing one.
 

Adfalenski

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Loose grounds and harness routing.
Did you have to go tear it off a donor car at the salvage yard?
I got the replacement dash from the salvage yard but reused the original wiring harness. Removing the original harness and installing into the new dash was a royal pain. There were a lot of branches of the wiring harness that needed to be routed “just so”. I installed the replacement dash and then spent hours correcting the routing of the harness. This is why I recommend just taking a dash with installed harness.
 

BigBore96

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I can't figure out what is going on in that pic. Wiring is only overwhelming if you look at the big ball as one. Instead take one wire, any wire and then try to find the mate to it and figure out what needs to be done to do that.
The pictures are a jumbled mess so hard to help from them but he is right. Take it one at a time and match them. I work weekends so havent been able to get you a picture from my new edge.

Couple questions though.
Did they cut more than the ignition wiring harness? Did they damage the steering wheel lock? And what on earth happened to your dash?



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Gannon

Gannon

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The pictures are a jumbled mess so hard to help from them but he is right. Take it one at a time and match them. I work weekends so havent been able to get you a picture from my new edge.

Couple questions though.
Did they cut more than the ignition wiring harness? Did they damage the steering wheel lock? And what on earth happened to your dash?



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The steering column was replaced because the actuator rod broke, and the original guy that came out was too lazy to fix it. Idk what happened to the dash *_* .
 

RAU03MACH

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there is one ground wire on the front right in front of the battery driver side radiator support top the skinny black wires make sure those are grounded good
 
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Gannon

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I just pulled out the dash. I cracked my windshield taking out the center console :(. But everything should be ready to go once everything is bolted in
 

ben37

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The ECU has a preprogrammed PATS for a certain key, but you said that it came with a preprogrammed key, so you got that.

If the fan only turns on when you put it into run, that might be an issue. I have run my ECU with a broken program (through a quarterhorse) and the symptoms for a "broken" strategy are fan running and fuel pump priming but nothing else happens. Make sure your ECU is ok.

PATS will allow your car to crank indefinitely, but it will prohibit spark. So once you get it to crank but with no spark, that might be your PATS.

99+ PATS requires 2 keys and a dealership to program with special equipment. Or a chip on the J3 port of the ECU with a known PATS code.
 

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