the5.ohh
Legend
The pieces that go around the windows and unlock/lock buttons. How do i remove that piece and how can i paint it? I'd like to do a gloss black. Mine are starting to show its age
Interior door panel around buttons?
- Thread starter the5.ohh
- Start date
Pull on it, it comes out. Unscrew the buttons. Good to go lol
ttocs
Post Whore
GENTLY pull the top of the piece towards the other door about 1/4" till you see the tab come out, then take the piece and pull it up and your done.
Tekton1377
Member
Don't break those tabs. The previous owner of my car did and instead of getting new panels he put a woodscrew through it to hold it in... It's so ghetto looking.
ttocs
Post Whore
Its really easy to do.
As stated above remove it gently!!! Tabs are very fragile.
If I remember correctly at the top by window side there is a slot where you can insert a screw driver and gently push the tab?
If I remember correctly at the top by window side there is a slot where you can insert a screw driver and gently push the tab?
Clean it, scuff with red scuff pad, clean it, spray it.
Nightmare
Well-Known Member
I have mine painted to match the exterior of my car.....a perfect oem match. I would recommend just doing a plain black then clearing over it multiple times. I have seen too many painted parts flake off because they are "high traffic" areas.
This ^ I forgot to add that in my last post. I'd say 4 coats of clear, make sure to wait for the clear to flash.
My suggestion for that much clear ↓
first coat
5mins
second coat
10mins
third coat
15mins
fourth coat
15mins
If it was the middle of summer the flash time would be shorter but it's getting colder and [MENTION=17616]the5.ohh[/MENTION] you're in NY so I'm sure it's every bit as cold as it is here.
OP
OP
the5.ohh
Legend
thanks for the write up man i appreciate it. maybe i'll save it for next spring. Its getting pretty chilly, no more t shirt and shorts, been sweats and t and skmetimes a hoodie. At night it gets into the low 60s, mid 50s easy. Only gonna get colder lol.
Nightmare
Well-Known Member
When you do do it, you might notice slight "circles" on the trim. This is normal. There is nothing that you can really do because that is one of the injection points that they used for the mold, however most of the time, you can only notice it if you are very close to it.
Shit maybe it's because I'm like 45mi from Lake Michigan, I've already brought all my paint stuff in the garage into the crawlspace for winter so it doesn't freeze. It's been solid sweatshirt-with-jacket-over weather for a couple weeks.
True, if anything it'll be noticed more since you're spraying them black but I seriously doubt it'll be an issue.
OP
OP
the5.ohh
Legend
Lmao damn
Nightmare
Well-Known Member
I can see it in certain lights with the Redfire paint. Not that noticeable, however I know it is there. The reason why I did it was to resemble the 10th anniversary Cobras. All that I have left to "add" to have all of the special items that they had is the carbon fiber ebrake handle/boot, and the steering wheel. I am not going to do the floormats though.
full force
Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2013
- Messages
- 218
- Reaction score
- 2
The best way to remove them for me that has worked, pop the upper tab out, hold it firm and give a quick jerk upwards, it pops out real easy, the 2 times I removed slow they broke tabs, I have parted 60 of these cars out and always pull them fast and never broke one since!!
ScottyDsntKnow
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,488
- Reaction score
- 27
Yep, as long as you get the top free the rest should just pop out no problem. There are little indents in the top where you can slide in a screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape to get it started and not scratch anything. Adhesion promotor is always a good idea on interior parts IMO. Also half the ppl who have messed up paint jobs in the interior stare at you blankly if when you asked if they scrubbed the parts down beforehand with soapy water to get all the interior cleaner/residue off them beforehand.
if you do base coat clear coat you should wet sand and buff it. otherwise you'll see some serious orange peel from a spray can. i'd shoot that deep pocket a couple times first too when you base and clear before the big flat surfaces.
ttocs
Post Whore
I had a buddy I just sold some dash parts for as he had his painted. I know he always kept his car clean and shiny so unfortunately the basic scuff/wipe on them was not enough after years of armerall. When I painted mine a few years ago I had the same problem with the paint spider-webbing. I ended sanding that coat off and was sure to go down into the plastic piece so I knew I had fresh plastic.
ScottyDsntKnow
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,488
- Reaction score
- 27
Years of Armor All is murder on an interior. Google "armor all cracking" and be horrified if that's all you've used. I use Meguiar's and it is much nicer, way less slippery and doesn't deteriorate your interior parts.
ttocs
Post Whore
I have used armerall on my mustang since it was new in 94 and my truck since 97 and never had a crack yet. I don't think it causes dashes to crack and I don't think it was really made to keep it from happening. Imo its little more then a temporary cosmetic mod but I don't think it protects the dash like a good coat of was can do to paint. Ford dashes from my experience installing car audio and constantly removing them are made better then GM/chrstler imo as I never had a ford dash crack on me but I can think of 2 dodges and 3 gm dashes that were so old and dry rotted that they basically fell apart just trying to get them loose. Actually now that I think about it I did have a Miata dash completely disintegrate on me as I pulled it off. Sure mazda/ford are almost one in the same but that convertible top was rotted just as bad as you could tell it was not up much.
