It has begun!

Makoto

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engine version 2 is back home. specs:

C heads
99 cobra cams
teksid block
boss 302 rods
hypereutectic stock bore flat top pistons
97 cobra crank

should be a slight bump in compression and less noise with these pistons. before anyone asks why i didn't go forged pistons its because its a waste if you never want to boost the car. anywhere between 350-400crank hp is fine for me which should be doable with this setup and a good tune (i think). I mean stock is 320, a few more for the flat top pistons, full exhaust, no cats should be good for at least another 40-50 with a tune.

v2_1.jpg v2_2.jpg V2_3.jpg
 

Makoto

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probably due to my particular k member setup i noticed the steering shaft was making some contact with the header at times. so i clearanced the pipe with a universal wrench and hopefully we've got plenty of wiggle room now.

header1.jpg header2.jpg
 

Makoto

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i've been really taking my time making sure to not get in a rush (and its super flippin hot right now) but V2.0 is ready to get slammed in. should be ready to fire it up by the weekend.
ready.jpg
 

Makoto

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Alrighty, a little update. Everything seems to be kosher with this motor so now i can finally move on to finishing block sanding to get this monkey painted.
Oh and the way i did the coolant crossover tube completely eliminated the problems with getting air out of the system.

the neck is really high but it's got about 1/4" of clearance between the cap and hood. This means i was able to fill it (she drinks a lot) and then after running it for a bit top it off. normally when bleeding this engines it takes a long time to get all the bubbles out but i checked it a couple days in a row after running the car and the level is the same.

it now runs like a car should after you've replaced everything with new parts :D

engineV2_done.jpg
 

Makoto

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So i replaced all the coil packs because i got some codes thrown which could be a bad ground OR just the God-only-knows-how-old non oem coil packs being dodgy. I figure i've replaced everything else why skimp on a set of coil packs? so ford racing to the rescue (for $250 bones)

Anyhow, i wanted to share the coolant system success. last time i had a bear of a time getting all the air out of the system but my new design puts the filler neck up very close to the engine and very high up. i filled it up initially and added water after the car was running for a bit. since then its been at the same level which means apparently all the air was able to escape without issue. pretty happy with this.

its basically what mmr suggests but instead of having a braided -12 line i have a -12 female to female 90 with a female to male 45 -12. there's a rubber hose on the stud beneath it to support the weight of the apparatus.

its very high but all of this clears with about 1/4" clearance at least :)

cool1.jpgcool2.jpg
 

Makoto

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welp body work is officially done.
tomorrow i go over the car with a fine tooth comb and start cleaning the shop.
monday after work i'll get the area 100% ready for paint.
tuesday we do the deed.


fp8.jpg
 

ttocs

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I kept from sanding through my primer for fear that it would lead to a difference in the way the paint went down and looked in the end. Do you have a big compressor? filter/dryer?
 

Makoto

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I kept from sanding through my primer for fear that it would lead to a difference in the way the paint went down and looked in the end. Do you have a big compressor? filter/dryer?

sealer is a wonderful thing. its an epoxy primer that goes on right before you lay paint to make sure all those transitions are filled in.
the compressor is big enough. i got this one. its dang quiet, too. for driers i use one on the gun and another on the line coming into the shop. nothing fancy.
 

ttocs

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sealer is a wonderful thing. its an epoxy primer that goes on right before you lay paint to make sure all those transitions are filled in.
the compressor is big enough. i got this one. its dang quiet, too. for driers i use one on the gun and another on the line coming into the shop. nothing fancy.
Ok good I was hoping there was something that was going on first.

I hate to tell you but a 20 gallon is going to be working a lot of overtime to do this, my 6 hp 60 gallon was on constantly when I did mine but it was big enough to keep the pressure up. If your doing sealer, color and clear I am afraid it will make for a long day waiting for the pressure to get back up but I understand you use what you have access to.
 

Makoto

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Ok good I was hoping there was something that was going on first.

I hate to tell you but a 20 gallon is going to be working a lot of overtime to do this, my 6 hp 60 gallon was on constantly when I did mine but it was big enough to keep the pressure up. If your doing sealer, color and clear I am afraid it will make for a long day waiting for the pressure to get back up but I understand you use what you have access to.

lol bro, i've used it before, this is where practice vs theory makes a difference. the compressor is specifically rated for this kind of work.

its set at like 150psi and i run way less than that at the gun, never have hit the wall.

....but lets say that did happen, you still gotta mix up new material when you run out in the gun and sealer (aka epoxy primer) requires a 15 minute set up time before you can use it. the compressor is still running while you do the messy stuff.

it seems more complicated and tricky than it actually is, thats why i encourage everyone to just go for it.
 

joemomma

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Man kudos for tackling something like this. I'd love to get mine redone (it's been painted once, but not very well) but I'm seriously afraid of making it worse lol.
 

Makoto

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before you congratulate me know that this is about a 10 foot paint job. i messed up the sealer stage because the gun i was using started giving me problems.
so my options were, stop, sand the epoxy primer, or just mix a cup of color and go for it then sand that later.
here's why i went ahead: sanding epoxy primer/sealer sucks. i went big and it didn't pan out but i did learn something and she's all sealed up.

so, i just gotta wait a bit, lightly sand it, and reshoot. here's what i learned 10 oz of this single stage paint covered everything you see that has color on it... and i had a gallon to start with... so we're good :D

tomorrow i'm going to do the roof after i fix a couple blemishes on it.badpaint1.jpgbadpaint2.jpgbadpaint3.jpgbadpaint4.jpg
 

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