Just getting your guys opinions

[97stanger]

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

 

[MustangChris]

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

at 500 HP, you may want to just risk it..... but i dono. its up to you... ive seen 475 out of stock internals...

"1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?"
Not really sure... you could get a 1996-2004 cobra crank, then do forged rods.... that might be cheep.

"2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?"
Livernoise, probe, FRPP, and maybe even skat.

"3) what companies would you guys recommend?"
FRPP cobra kit if you want to keep stock s+b.

 

[97stanger]

yeah man, thats the only thing I was thinking about. I have also seen guys get upper 400's out of these cars no problem with a safe tune and a smart head...just not killing the thing to death. Its just tough because I'm right on the edge here

 

[NERD]

Chris, NoNo for giving advise. Skat crank? LOL



Get a set of Hawk rods and Probe pistons and have a machine shop assemble it. You'll be out about $2500. Cast crank is plenty good and will last till about 8k rpm & 700rwhp. (Contrary to popular belief) Buy a 4v ford racing oil pump while you're at it. If you can afford to have a shop assemble it all, do that! That way there, they can warranty the labor. Do NOT try and push your luck, 425-450rw is pushing the envelope unless you're sure you have a world class tuner.

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

 

[MustangChris]

Chris, NoNo for giving advise. Skat crank? LOL



Get a set of Hawk rods and Probe pistons and have a machine shop assemble it. You'll be out about $2500. Cast crank is plenty good and will last till about 8k rpm & 700rwhp. (Contrary to popular belief) Buy a 4v ford racing oil pump while you're at it. If you can afford to have a shop assemble it all, do that! That way there, they can warranty the labor. Do NOT try and push your luck, 425-450rw is pushing the envelope unless you're sure you have a world class tuner.

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

what? skat makes good chevy stuff... i dono about ford stuff... (thats why i said maybe. lol.)
and eagle makes garbage DSM stuff (from waht ive seen... then again i dont think ive ever seen a DSM off cinderblocks.)

so... lol. to each his own? lol.

i honestly suggest trying to track down a 1996+ cobra crank.. just look around on ebay and craigeslist.. you might find something

 

[NERD]

Read more Chris.

 

[MustangChris]

Read more Chris.

i cant read... :-( i have a thing on my computer to read the forum to me... :-( "hey-llo sechie-nerd. yoouar much-stang rocks. !!!." kinda like that.

 

[MustangChris]

Chris, NoNo for giving advise. Skat crank? LOL



Get a set of Hawk rods and Probe pistons and have a machine shop assemble it. You'll be out about $2500. Cast crank is plenty good and will last till about 8k rpm & 700rwhp. (Contrary to popular belief) Buy a 4v ford racing oil pump while you're at it. If you can afford to have a shop assemble it all, do that! That way there, they can warranty the labor. Do NOT try and push your luck, 425-450rw is pushing the envelope unless you're sure you have a world class tuner.

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

my bad.. scat**** crank... lol.... ...

 

[NERD]

scat doesn't make a crank for the 4.6. The cast GT crank is recognized to be able to handle 600rw hp and 7k rpm. On a properly balanced system I say it's higher at about 700rw. The cobra crank is forged steel and will easily handle 1000rwhp so there's no need to go anywhere else. And it's also the cheapest.

Chris, NoNo for giving advise. Skat crank? LOL



Get a set of Hawk rods and Probe pistons and have a machine shop assemble it. You'll be out about $2500. Cast crank is plenty good and will last till about 8k rpm & 700rwhp. (Contrary to popular belief) Buy a 4v ford racing oil pump while you're at it. If you can afford to have a shop assemble it all, do that! That way there, they can warranty the labor. Do NOT try and push your luck, 425-450rw is pushing the envelope unless you're sure you have a world class tuner.

Well, as some of you know I had to pull my motor because I could not get to the back valves to change the valvesprings/retainers for my blower cams. The motor is sitting in my garage and I was going to just rip the heads off, get them ported and polished and slap the cams in and call it a day. Now I'm expecting to be in the 450rwhp/450tq range through stock internals. I originally didnt want to start forging out my whole motor because I know it can be super expensive and a lot more time consuming and it probably wouldnt be up and running come the spring time. But while the motor is sitting out on a stand, the more i think about it, it may just make sense to do it right the first time than to do all this work to my car and still have the risk of damaging the motor at such a high hp level for stock internals. this car isn't going to be a super fast track car or anything, honestly I probably wouldn't even want to go more than mid 500rwhp for a street warrior.
1) Do I need to forge my rods/crank/pistons or can i get away with just forging some of these?
2) any good/cost effective kits out there from companies for forged internals?
3) what companies would you guys recommend?

thanks

my bad.. scat**** crank... lol.... ...

 

[97stanger]

If all I will need are forged rods/pistons...I dont see how this would cost anywhere in the ballpark of $2k. There is a fellow selling the following...let me know what you guys think:

Eagle ESP Forged H Beam Rods (BRAND NEW IN BOX, WITH ARP BOLTS AND LUBE) - $500

Forged Probe Dished Pistons (Should yield 8.5 Compression, standard bore, taken out of GT at 5,000 mile, professionally removed from rods, in perfect condition) - $350

Isnt that all I would need?

 

[NERD]

I'd like to say yes that's all you'll need but for some reason that stuff adds up quick. My build went from a $2500 short block to $9k in the matter of weeks. LOL

Of course rings gapped for F/I, oil pump, fluids, gaskets and Head bolts, installation if you can't do it.

 

[MustangChris]

I'd like to say yes that's all you'll need but for some reason that stuff adds up quick. My build went from a $2500 short block to $9k in the matter of weeks. LOL

Of course rings gapped for F/I, oil pump, fluids, gaskets and Head bolts, installation if you can't do it.

i have a head-gasket kit and head bolts (both FRPP) for sale if you are interested... $115.00 :-D

 

[97stanger]

i talked to my dad a little ago, and me and him are going to do the installation so i wont have to pay anything for that. I'm going to hop on these rods I think, but going to hold off on the pistons and buy new Eagle/Manley/Mahle ones when I get the cash.

 

[NERD]

i talked to my dad a little ago, and me and him are going to do the installation so i wont have to pay anything for that. I'm going to hop on these rods I think, but going to hold off on the pistons and buy new Eagle/Manley/Mahle ones when I get the cash.

There's no point in buying the more expensive pistons. Probe is a race proven brand name and if your goals are anything around what you said (500) it would be stupid to buy anything more. I've known a few people that in the 900rw range with Probe. They have been around a long time. The only problem probe has ever had with the modulars is with their stroker pistons because of the ring placement/skirt design. I built my best friends motor w/ a probe/hawk combination we bought off ebay and he's steady at 700rw with a T trim and it's his daily driver and weekend racer pulling in at around 10 flat.

One thing you will need to consider is that dropping your compression is going to lower your boost. You may need to upgrade your blower depending on how much you gain from your cams or pulley down. There's a steady 3lbs difference between the S trim and the T trim on some of the cars I've worked on. You'll also loose about 2-3lbs from lowering your compression to 8.8:1.

 

[97stanger]

thats a good point sxynerd. either way, i'm not going to hop on these pistons yet. I'll look into Probe, and if i can find a set for a good price I'll hop in them in the near future.

I guess with the whole blower, I'm just going to do the motor and put it all back on the car and when I go for my dyno tune see where I'm at and take it from there. thanks for the info though, thats some good stuff

 

[DropTopPony]

Crank = not really a must upgrade but if you can find a Cobra crank for a decent price its not a bad idea.
Rods= must do.... I like the Manley H beams in street cars under 700hp
Pistons= must do and like most of the current 4.6 options available so you can't go wrong.

I went with Manley for my rods/piston because they are quality and Local.


Another option is just find a decent shortblock and save yourself the headaches.

 

[97stanger]

i think i can really save myself some cash if i just go with the rods/pistons though.

 

[duff daddy]

Well all has been answered pretty well, Id say the same as bob on the crank, if you can find a good or new cobra crank for a good price buy it, if not then just use your gt or buy a new gt and save money, and pistons id look in to diamond, they have some pretty nice stuff and im pretty sure thats who im going t obe using

 

[NERD]

+1 on Diamond, very good brand for the price.

 

[duff daddy]

great minds think alike ey ..... hahha i want to order mine but i dont know my compression ratio yet.