AaRoN
King Post Whore
atrainsgt said:
It happens. Sometimes it's hard to NOT overlook the obvious.
Just installed PI cams.
- Thread starter atrainsgt
- Start date
It happens. Sometimes it's hard to NOT overlook the obvious.
Brian95SVT
Legend
I put down 190whp with shorty headers, catted xpipe, catback, and PI intake. No tune. I hope to make close to what you make.
95PGTTech said:
Well I was going to do a full PI swap that's worth 50+hp, and it took the cams about 10 hours
Plus I didn't want to spend $500 on aftermarket cams and $200 on valve springs when I am building 4v engine anyway.
So have you driven it yet? Don't forget to take it easy and let the ecu learn the new parts before you romp on it. You should definitely gain a solid 15rwhp and the car should now make more power higher in the rpm range.
It should hold you over until the 4V swap.
It should hold you over until the 4V swap.
95PGTTech said:
I bought loaded PI heads over a year ago and just never used them. I've had them for sale and no one seemed to want them, so I figured id use the cams out of them. And I did not degree the cams. I've never heard of anyone degreeing PI cams.
Droptop, I can definitely tell a difference. I haven't really beat on it yet though.
atrainsgt said:
You truly wasted your time if you did not degree them. Other than not being optimized as far as power production, I guarantee there is a few degrees difference between the two sides of the motor. I've seen as much as 10 WHEEL horsepower from degreeing STOCK modular cams properly, along with the obvious driveability improvements.
All modular cams need to be degree'd in. There is no way to just throw them in and install them "heads up." This is not a pushrod motor where even if the cam is not degree'd properly at least both sides of the motor are off the same.
I dont have PI heads but I do have PI intake and cams along with CAI, plenum, TB, pulley's, Mid pipe and catback and 3.73's and my car laid down 239 untuned. I plan on getting a tune in the future but I wanna wait till I get longtubes, hoping for 260-270 with that stuff. If you can get the PI parts cheap and do the work yourself its well worth the extra power cause these cars are dogs stock. 239whp is enough to beat my friends bolt on 04 auto GT(+ driver mod) so im happy with it.
Blk97GT said:
That sounds great. If I could get 240rwhp or so out of this before I swap to the 4v id be happy. I'm going to do a dyno day next week so I'll know it has currently. Have you ran your car at the drags yet? What did you run? I ran a 14.6 @ 95mph with a poor 2.2 60' before the cam swap, so I'm hoping I can get it down close to 14's. I figure I can get 2 tenths off of it with just a decent 60'.
never had it at the track. Ran my friends 04 GT on the street from a dig and pulled a car on him and his car has run a best 14.1@ 100. I think on a good set of tires I could get it to a 13.9-13.8, with 240whp and decent driving thats very realistic I think.atrainsgt said:
LI98GT
Well-Known Member
I was suprised when i first read your impressions, till I read that you had fixed the issue. Maybe you should put some "***" next to the issue being fixed in the first entry. Glad you were able to fix it anyway.
I just have the PI cams and PI intake, but installed them reverse to your order and was very happy with the PI cams over stock NPI. I felt torque throughout the rev range and it pulled stronger to a higher rev ~500rpm addt'l or 5500rpm instead of falling flat at 5krpm. The dyno has me at ~12-15rwhp and no I didn't degree the cams either. I put down 229 rwhp and have a best run of 13.72 with DRs. GL with your runs and make sure you post up the results!
I just have the PI cams and PI intake, but installed them reverse to your order and was very happy with the PI cams over stock NPI. I felt torque throughout the rev range and it pulled stronger to a higher rev ~500rpm addt'l or 5500rpm instead of falling flat at 5krpm. The dyno has me at ~12-15rwhp and no I didn't degree the cams either. I put down 229 rwhp and have a best run of 13.72 with DRs. GL with your runs and make sure you post up the results!
LI98GT
Well-Known Member
atrainsgt said:
Thanks. I attached the timesheet below. As you can see, the 60' was 1.904 and launched ~2500 rpm.
Okay guys I just got home from the track. Something is very wrong. The car is slower than it was before the cam swap. Best run tonight was a 15.2x. I was running 14.6x before the cam swap. Timing must be off a tooth, or more. I don't know how that happened but it must have. Unless something else could be causing the car to be slower. Any ideas? I'll have to figure out a way to check the timing.
Something must be wrong :dontknow:.
I gained power from PI intake/cams swap.
Here's a copy of my Dyno sheet. Of course it's done here in Germany. It was on a pretty new All Wheel Dyno.
They rate power different over here PS/DIN instead of US Horsepower. The conversion was 242 HP at the rear wheels.
My only mods for power being PI intake /cams, WMS in fender CAI, 3:73 Gears, and Dyno tune tweeking with my Xcal2 by Tony Gonyon from HP Performance of Florida.
Mike
I gained power from PI intake/cams swap.
Here's a copy of my Dyno sheet. Of course it's done here in Germany. It was on a pretty new All Wheel Dyno.
They rate power different over here PS/DIN instead of US Horsepower. The conversion was 242 HP at the rear wheels.
My only mods for power being PI intake /cams, WMS in fender CAI, 3:73 Gears, and Dyno tune tweeking with my Xcal2 by Tony Gonyon from HP Performance of Florida.
Mike
So this mess continues. I didn't think to check the part numbers on these cams since I pulled them from PI heads, but now I am thinking something is not right. I remember glancing at the part number on the cams and thinking that's awful close to my NPI cam part numbers but since it was different I dismissed it without giving it another thought until now. Based off of my memory the new cams part numbers started off with an F. If I am correct, I think those are NPI cams, possibly truck cams if those are any different. I will pull my valve covers off tomorrow to find out for sure. Any of you have a source for checking part numbers?
