LETS TRY THIS AGAIN

evilcw311

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I think the reason we are letting it slide is the complete attitude adjustment. Seems like lesson learned.

You say you plan to stay around 6 pounds. Boost guys help me, isn't that barely more than atmospheric pressure and would make little to no difference? Or is that old school thinking?

1 bar is 14.7 lbs. that is 100% increase in barometric pressure. 6lbs is just under 50% increase which is actually a lot. Imagine you take the deepest breath you can and then someone forces a third lungs worth of air down your throat. Now your around 6lbs!!!

Most cars with stock blocks should be between 5-8lbs. Should make for around a 20-25% increase in power in a perfect scenario.


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g36 monkey

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1 bar is 14.7 lbs. that is 100% increase in barometric pressure. 6lbs is just under 50% increase which is actually a lot. Imagine you take the deepest breath you can and then someone forces a third lungs worth of air down your throat. Now your around 6lbs!!!

Most cars with stock blocks should be between 5-8lbs. Should make for around a 20-25% increase in power in a perfect scenario.


This is why we all need Powerstrokes. 50 pounds of boost to warm up ;p
 

white95

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I think the reason we are letting it slide is the complete attitude adjustment. Seems like lesson learned.

You say you plan to stay around 6 pounds. Boost guys help me, isn't that barely more than atmospheric pressure and would make little to no difference? Or is that old school thinking?

Hence I haven't brought the banhammer back out :chewie:
 

94'BooSTED-GTtoo

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im 95% sure i have a very soft spring in the bov causing me not to build much boost, and also my wg is running off a vac line off the intake behind the tb.... i think thats why its staying shut all the time.....? plan on buying a new turbo with the pressure valve on it soon.... so i hope that fixes that prob
 

Lanter

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im 95% sure i have a very soft spring in the bov causing me not to build much boost, and also my wg is running off a vac line off the intake behind the tb.... i think thats why its staying shut all the time.....? plan on buying a new turbo with the pressure valve on it soon.... so i hope that fixes that prob


Take a step back before just throwing parts at it. The wastegate isn't opening because you haven't applied enough boost pressure to it. Do you have an air compressor at home, if so apply 10 psi or so to it and watch it open. Seriously don't go throwing a new turbo that's internally gated when there is likely nothing wrong with your wastegate. Also the BOV, go buy a brake bleeder vacuum pump from harbor freight or any auto store and apply vacuum to the BOV. Then record what vacuum it takes to open the valve and at what point the valve closes again. I would Do these simple and cheap tests before buying new components that may or may not be the problem.
 

98snakehorse

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Just speaking off of experience with my boost brothers kit I had to throw their BOV in the trash as it would not seal properly and did not allow me to build any boost. After going to a turbosmart unit all was fine. Its really hard to diagnose not being there in person but I agree, do not just buy parts for until you find out what is causing your issues.
 

94'BooSTED-GTtoo

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:thumbsup:, bov will be replaced asap.....and i believe the vac line is sucking the wg shut,its working backwards,i need pressure to help it open......damn pressure.......

wcl72r.jpg






and turbo is staying now!!! not going to waste $$$ and if i do buy a new turbo it'll be in the future , and not china made
 

Lanter

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:thumbsup:, bov will be replaced asap.....and i believe the vac line is sucking the wg shut,its working backwards,i need pressure to help it open......damn pressure.......

and turbo is staying now!!! not going to waste $$$ and if i do buy a new turbo it'll be in the future , and not china made

Do you have a two port wastegate. If so is your vacuum/boost like hooked up to the bottom port? Also it's only called a vacuum line since in a naturally aspirated application the intake is always under a vacuum condition however in a turbo car once the turbo makes boost pressures high enough to overcome the inherent pressure drop in intercooler, charge pipes, etc the intake and vacuum hoses will now see positive pressure so even though it's a vacuum line from the intake to wastegate once boost is made that vacuum hose will be positive pressure not vacuum. So if you have the line hooked up properly the wastegate isn't being shut by the vacuum line, the spring keeps the wastegate closed and as the bottom chamber (bottom port) is filled with boost that pressure pushes against the diaphragm and overpowers the spring when boost pressure is high enough which opens the wastegate.

That's why a boost controller works on a two port wastegate is you apply boost pressure to the top port so that instead of the boost pressure in the bottom port having to just overpower the wastegate spring it now has to overpower the wastegate spring and the boost pressure that has been applied to the top port of the wastegate.

All that to say my gut says your wastegate is fine. Also the BOV will leak if the spring isn't strong enough to overcome the vacuum pressure being applied, so if yours if open at idle it will leak. Now when you get into the throttle and the vacuum pressure the engine is operating in lesses as it the BOV spring will shut the BOV. You really need to test these components to make sure they are operating properly. Also do you have a o-ring between the BOV and BOV flange? Mine has one and I could see leaving that out being a big issue for sealing boost pressure.
 

Defiant

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So I take it you still haven't gotten a boost leak tester yet..
 

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