MOAR Thunderhill pics!

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ba#97

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it is definitely a blast. well in all honesty...my car is pretty mild. haha. It's setup is very balanced though which I love. most of the time I make up on people is in the corners in this thing. I do feel like I pick up on a track faster than a lot of people and that's why when I finally do put up my video....you'll notice that in a point by based run group...this guy isn't pointing anyone by. lol.
 

RichV

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Great pics man! I went to my first track day last weekend and it was epic. I can only imagine going with a properly prepped car lol.

On a side note, I think RichV needs to expand more on the Wilwood setup :O

Will do. I looked at several options for 13" (CMC legal max) 4-piston setup. The Wilwood is just much easier financially and parts availability. I don't have time this morning, but I'll post up this afternoon on my findings and opinions of each.
 

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Tracks rules say "Convertible vehicles must have roll protection in place." Would my styling bar fall under that rule? I would think so?
IMG_0634_zps62d3eea4.jpg
 
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ba#97

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Tracks rules say "Convertible vehicles must have roll protection in place." Would my styling bar fall under that rule? I would think so?
IMG_0634_zps62d3eea4.jpg

I'm not 100% positive but I think it could suffice. Though the best way to find out is to ask the track day group you end up running with. They will be able to answer all your questions and if you can find a good group....will help you a lot to get on your way to being good on track.
 

white95

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That styling bar most likely wouldn't pass for roll protection!

http://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/rollover.html

NASA rule book 11.4.7 Roll Bars
All open cars should have a roll bar installed to help protect the occupant(s) from injury during a roll-over. The main hoop shall be one continuous piece with smooth Mandrel bends with no evidence of crimping or wall failure. All welds should be of the highest possible quality, with full penetration [Ref:(15.6.15)]. All cars with roll bars are required to have adequate roll bar padding per CCR section #15.6.4. In cases where the driver’s head may come in contact with the roll bar should the seatback fail, a seatback brace is required in conformance with section #15.6.21. Acceptable roll bars include, but are not limited to, the following:
Hard Dog
AC - Ace
D - Deuce (center-braced model only) AB - M1 Hard Core
TB – M1 Hard Core Hardtop
9B – M2 Hard Core
NB – M2 Hard Core
Auto Power
Street Roll Bar Street-Sport Roll Bar Race Roll Bar
29
 

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SCCA 2013 Solo (autocross) rules:

3.3.2 Roll baRs
Roll bars or roll cages are strongly recommended in all cars. A roll bar meeting the requirements of Appendix C or a roll cage meeting the requirements of the Club Racing General Competition Rules (GCR) (Section 9.4, Roll Cages For GT And Production Based Cars or Sec- tion 9.4.5, Roll Cages For Formula Cars and Sports Racing Cars) is required in all A Modified (AM), B Modified (BM), C Modified (CM), and F Modified (FM) vehicles and all open cars in Prepared Category, D Modified (DM) class, and E Modified (EM) class. For open cars in the Stock, Street Prepared, Street Touring, and Street Modified categories, the roll bar or roll cage height may be reduced from Appendix C or GCR 9.4 requirements to the highest possible height which fits within an in- stalled factory-specified hardtop or convertible top. The roll bar or roll cage height may also be reduced in the same manner for cars in the Prepared category with a full original equipment windshield assembly and a standard (as defined herein) hardtop which has been bolted se- curely in place.
Double-hoop roll bars must fasten properly to the chassis/unibody as required by Appendix C, particularly at attachment points in the center of the car.
 

GMSMOKR

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On bout to start looking on Craigslist for a 88-98 Stang for cheap. For the track only..! Maybe get lucky for one around 2500.00
 
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ba#97

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Just got to make sure it is mechanically sound, no leaks etc and then you should be good to go if you were to do that.
 

RichV

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On bout to start looking on Craigslist for a 88-98 Stang for cheap. For the track only..! Maybe get lucky for one around 2500.00

Pizza-cake around here. Depending what your goal is, you can find a good candidate. Personally, I'd go with a SN, V8, manual trans, good runner and driver.

Do maintenance, whatever stuff like brakes, bushings, fluids. Add subframes and decent tires, and go have fun.
 

RichV

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Ya know, I'd pimp a 4.6, either one, as long as it's a V8. Once you learn how to navigate around a course, you're gonna go balls-to-the wall on suspension, brakes, and chassis. Then engine mods, honestly the pushrod may be cheaper in some aspecs but a PI swap is really all you need on a 4.6. For a roadcourse anyway, if your car is setup, a conservative 250-300 rwhp, and you can drive, you'll make a lot of Porsche and BMW owners cry.
 
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ba#97

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Ya know, I'd pimp a 4.6, either one, as long as it's a V8. Once you learn how to navigate around a course, you're gonna go balls-to-the wall on suspension, brakes, and chassis. Then engine mods, honestly the pushrod may be cheaper in some aspecs but a PI swap is really all you need on a 4.6. For a roadcourse anyway, if your car is setup, a conservative 250-300 rwhp, and you can drive, you'll make a lot of Porsche and BMW owners cry.

this is a true statement...I did a lot of just that on friday. lol.
 
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ba#97

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I've noticed that with stock k member, coilovers, subframes and rear control arms...my car is very very well balanced. and I am happy with it. I'm going to get a panhard bar, and tubular front control arms and call it a day. not going to fix what isn't broke basically.
 

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