My 1995 5.0

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Sure why not. I doubt you will need more then 65mm but if you have your heart set on 70mm go for it. I don't know what your future plans are so...there you go :thumb:
 
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Bakerlax

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plan on heads cam, maybe differnt block, CAI gears etc... a street car that can hold its own vs just about anything
 

1quk50

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full bolt on it and throw 150 shot to it.. when it blow build a 351-408 stroker and be dun!
 

BlkoutGT

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you can get that elbow from summit... trick flow, edlebrock... I have a trick flow one... never been used, I had to do the fox body conversion cause of taller valve covers... The easiest way is to use the elbow, but supposedly the fox throttle body settup makes better power or (feels that way), but thats a hole other subject that has been on the site countless times...lol
 
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Bakerlax

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Well I didnt put the cobra intake on yet... going to school in two days... got a job all lined up plan on getting my TB.. Elbow.. CAI... and Headers by the time i come home for my thanks giving break... and then keep going... hopefully second semester.. heads cams.. gears... etc... pretty pumped... I heard there are some cars up where I go to school, anyone from NH?

Thanks all :TY: :TY:
 

97 king cobra

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1quk50 said:
full bolt on it and throw 150 shot to it.. when it blow build a 351-408 stroker and be dun!

^This equals the truth x 100!!

first of all upper and lower intake is pretty much a waste for stock cam, heads, block... so is a bigger throttle body....also if your going to go ahead and do headers, since there such a pain in the ass, u might as well get long tubes (there the biggest pain but give the best performance). Gears, cai, battery relocation, subframe connectors, lower control arms, 90/10 shocks/struts, smog pump delete, short throw shifter ARE ALL MUST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!!!!! pretty much all those mods can carry over to a new engine if yours ever takes a shit.
 
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Bakerlax

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its an auto... and i plan on getting what i mentioned then second semester this year get heads and cams... and if i feel the need get teh boss 302 block from ford racing... then over the summer i plan on suspension sub frame etc.... also i plan on doing a shift kit and a stall converter
 

97 king cobra

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Bakerlax said:
its an auto... and i plan on getting what i mentioned then second semester this year get heads and cams... and if i feel the need get teh boss 302 block from ford racing... then over the summer i plan on suspension sub frame etc.... also i plan on doing a shift kit and a stall converter

alright, scratch the shifter, unless u end up going 5 spd, everything else is definately needed. also as for the manual/auto question...manuals are best for average to somewhat fast cars, but if u plan to build a 9 sec or faster car, id suggest auto, more reliable, more consistant, and a c4/c6 will outshift any human!
 
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Bakerlax

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my goal is for a low 11s street car.....i think driving a 5 speed is much more fun... but ive been told by various people that for cars like mustangs.... you want more power go with an auto... no human error....open throttle the whole time...i do have to drive back and forth to school so i might stick with the auto
 

BlkoutGT

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like 97 king cobra said if its a fast track car a auto is the best way to go... but if its a street car, driving a 5-speed is so much more fun... but its just a user preference really... but your car is a auto already right?... theres no problem with keeping it, as you can always buy a b&m shifter for it, that makes it a little more that way, plus the only work is like a 30 min shifter install...lol :p
 
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Bakerlax

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would the combo of this stall converter and a transgo shift kit slap shifter and 3.73 be a good combo


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...+150+400214+4294908331+4294924755+4294904003+




http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/21_38_134_162/products_id/242






ALso i came across thing http://www.jegs.com/v/B&M/130?s...=b&m+shifter&gclid=CJTw29mrrZUCFQOWHgodsCi8kw



would this be ok for street use... if i was just lets say driving to the movies or to school .. or would it be a pain in the ass... looks like a good time tho :thumb:
 

zero_chance

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If this is just the stock AODE, shifting manually through the gears is not recommended unless you want to trailer the car permanently. The 4r70W from the mod cars can be manually shifted all day long. AODE, not so much. Naturally, it CAN be done, but youre putting the tranny on borrowed time. In our trannies, I think youd be better off letting it shift automatically. Manual shifting puts a lot of stress on the tranny and a lot of heat. The manual 1 and 2 are there for starting in crappy conditions, not for performance unfortunately. Im a certified Ford tech and trust me, at 160K an AODE is pretty much just asking for an excuse to leave you stranded. If you want to keep an auto tranny, you can use your case and swap it out for 4r70W internals with minor mods. Or swap to a T5, thats what Im doing. As for anything being worth it, it really depends oon the car. Is it in good shape? Because mileage doesnt necessarily mean anything, Ive taken several 5.0s well into the 200K plus miles with absolutely no problems at all but I have access to all the necessary tools and a lift to do all the regular maintenance myself. My 88 LX 5.0 had 220K miles on it and would still run a 13.9 at NED before I sold it. The 5.0 is a very durable engine. There was an article on the net about some lady that has a 89 GT with over 750K miles on it and still going and the engines never been apart in any way. The biggest thing in my opinion is the body. If its starting to rot away or something, then it probably wouldnt be worth it to put too much work into it. If not, then theres no reason not to. Just my .02
 
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Bakerlax

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the body is in great shape it has a ding or two and some scratches.... but its a 1995 with org paint and black.... but yeah.. i planned on doing a shift kit and a stall converter and that b and m shifter..... not just the shifter....but how much would it end up costing for t5 swap out
 

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