Need bronze gear with distributor?

fstornge_04

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I am going with a steeda #19 cam and I was reading somewhere that said if I go with anything other than a stock cam I would need to get a bronze gear for the distributor? Does anyone have any info on this or is it just a safety measure to ensure you don't spin or strip the gear?
Thanks all in advance.
-James
 

modo

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fstornge_04 said:
I am going with a steeda #19 cam and I was reading somewhere that said if I go with anything other than a stock cam I would need to get a bronze gear for the distributor? Does anyone have any info on this or is it just a safety measure to ensure you don't spin or strip the gear?
Thanks all in advance.
-James

its a hydraulic cam you do not need to change the gear
 

wayne94mustang

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as far as i know there is a difference in a flat tappet cam and a rollor cam as far as the gear needed.

Rollor cams need a steel or bronze gear since they are harder then a basic cast iron flat tappet cam.
 

modo

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wayne94mustang said:
as far as i know there is a difference in a flat tappet cam and a rollor cam as far as the gear needed.

Rollor cams need a steel or bronze gear since they are harder then a basic cast iron flat tappet cam.

bronze gear or better yet the new polymer gear is used with solid lifters... reason being there needs to be something soft to wear so its not the cam lobes. with a hydraulic type lifter the oil in the lifter with the plunger accomplishes that
 
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fstornge_04

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Thanks for all the replies, I was a big 4.6 guy and I am still learning about these 5.0's....!!
 

wayne94mustang

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modo said:
wayne94mustang said:
as far as i know there is a difference in a flat tappet cam and a rollor cam as far as the gear needed.

Rollor cams need a steel or bronze gear since they are harder then a basic cast iron flat tappet cam.

bronze gear or better yet the new polymer gear is used with solid lifters... reason being there needs to be something soft to wear so its not the cam lobes. with a hydraulic type lifter the oil in the lifter with the plunger accomplishes that


the gear has nothing to do with the lobes or the lifters....only what the cam is made out of.

roller cams are normally steel and need a steel gear just like the stock cam had. bronze is ok but it will ware and needs to be checked on.

basicly, you can reuse your gear if your new cam is steel, you do not want to if it is cast iron. but when I replace a cam i replace the gear with a new one every time.
 
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you should already have the correct dizzy gear. if you try and run a steel gear in a hydraulic cam motor it will last about 500 miles then your gonna be wondering why you motor just cut off all the sudden lol. I did a HO swap in a 86 f150 in high school and found out the hard way to run a bronze gear lol.
 

wayne94mustang

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xsoutherngun89x said:
you should already have the correct dizzy gear. if you try and run a steel gear in a hydraulic cam motor it will last about 500 miles then your gonna be wondering why you motor just cut off all the sudden lol. I did a HO swap in a 86 f150 in high school and found out the hard way to run a bronze gear lol.


but.....the stock gear is steel in a HO motor, so is the cam.

steel on steel is 100% fine, just like cast iron on cast iron is fine.

my HO has thousands of miles on a steel gear running on a comp cam....no problem


sounds like you ran a steel cam (roller) with a cast iron gear (non roller). both are hydraulic.....
 
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ah, i stand corrected. the years behind that swap made me forget. It was a cast gear that was in it. I swapped on the dizzy gear from the HO dizzy onto the trucks. My fault, ive been out of the whole pushrod game for a long time lol
 

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