Nitrous on a close to stock car?

JebTonkin · May 24, 2006

Ok so here is my question, I have a 95 GT bone stock and want to put a cat-back and a intake, and nitrous kit on it(other bolt-ons will come later). Will this be ok and what kind of shot would you run? It is my daily driver and I want it to be fun but I don't want to get H/C/I just yet.

ryclef331 · May 25, 2006

I ran a wet kit on my stock GT for 2 years. 125hp Compucar. Just do this...

Change your fuel filter (may or may not did need it. I got away without doing this but I would still reccomend it)
Set timing at around 10degrees (each car is slightly different in what they like. Just make sure its not pinging)
Always run 93 when you know you'll be spraying.

thats it. I ran just underdrivepulleys and a 125 shot. never sprayed it at the track when it was like that though. I had a fucking BLAST on the street with it. Dead nuts quiet and absolutely brutal light to light. I don't like the "voodoo" of a dry kit. Some do but I don't feel that the fuel management of them is very accurate.

JebTonkin · May 25, 2006

So I don't need bigger injectors or pump? If so that is awesome and I may order today. I was planning on going with an NX kit.

ryclef331 · May 25, 2006

I never did. Stock pump. If you run a wet kit, your injectors have nothing to do with it...the nitrous kit sprays the fuel and nitrous. A dry kit sprays just nitrous and kicks up the fuel pressure to the injectors to compensate for the extra air.

When you get the kit, start small with the shot...75hp or so. Work your way up.

To aid in your nitrous tuning I'd suggest a few more things that I picked up later down the road and helped make me more consistent and faster.

A bottle heater...maintaining optimum bottle pressure is VERY important. Too low and you'll never see full power gains. When you get your bottle filled at first, its going to be high but once it cools down, it may drop to 750psi. Most kits reccomend 1,000 - 1,100psi.

A Nitrous Pressure Gauge...bottle mounted is fine but it goes hand in hand with having the heater...a purge is also nice to have in case you have too much pressure and it will help ensure a solid "hit" when you mash the pedal.

Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator and Gauge...this will help you on AND off the nitrous and let you know when you might be running into fuel system problems.

Now, you don't have to buy exspensive dash mounted gauges for this stuff. You can get a bottle mounted gauge for dirt cheap and also a t-fitting that will go into the fuel rail for you nitrous kit's suppy line in which you can mount the fuel press one to.

All this stuff isn't a neccessity off the bat but i'd suggest getting it over time.

ryclef331 · May 25, 2006

I told him to turn the timing back and I think if he's running stock type plugs he'll be fine...might have to tighten the gap a bit but thats it. As far as putting a power adder on a car that can't breathe, that bogus. So long as the car and ingest the volume of the intake charge that contains a 125hp shot of nitrous, its going to make 125 MORE hp. Dollar to Dollar, you can't beat nitrous. Call it cheating, the easy way out...."what happens when you run out of nitrous?" Whatever you want to say. If you're looking for a quick fix, this is where you find it. I am not ASE Certified nor do I work at, own, or operate a fucking Performance Shop...but I do have first hand experience in SPRAYING THE EVER LIVING SHIT OUT OF A STOCK 94 MUSTANG. SO, take it for what its worth. I sprayed 125hp for 2 years on a completely stock (intake to pan) 94 GT with 110,000miles on it and ZERO issues...other than traction. The motor came apart to make way for a stroker and everything looked great. Again, take it for what its worth but, your motor WILL handle this.

EDIT: Previous post deleted by poster. I'm not talking to myself here.

JebTonkin · May 25, 2006

ryclef331 said:
I never did. Stock pump. If you run a wet kit, your injectors have nothing to do with it...the nitrous kit sprays the fuel and nitrous. A dry kit sprays just nitrous and kicks up the fuel pressure to the injectors to compensate for the extra air.

When you get the kit, start small with the shot...75hp or so. Work your way up.

To aid in your nitrous tuning I'd suggest a few more things that I picked up later down the road and helped make me more consistent and faster.

A bottle heater...maintaining optimum bottle pressure is VERY important. Too low and you'll never see full power gains. When you get your bottle filled at first, its going to be high but once it cools down, it may drop to 750psi. Most kits reccomend 1,000 - 1,100psi.

A Nitrous Pressure Gauge...bottle mounted is fine but it goes hand in hand with having the heater...a purge is also nice to have in case you have too much pressure and it will help ensure a solid "hit" when you mash the pedal.

Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator and Gauge...this will help you on AND off the nitrous and let you know when you might be running into fuel system problems.

Now, you don't have to buy exspensive dash mounted gauges for this stuff. You can get a bottle mounted gauge for dirt cheap and also a t-fitting that will go into the fuel rail for you nitrous kit's suppy line in which you can mount the fuel press one to.

All this stuff isn't a neccessity off the bat but i'd suggest getting it over time.

Well I planned on getting an NX kit with all the accessories so all that is taking care of. So should I get colder plugs to be safe? If so what kind and what should I gap them at?

Julian Moore · May 25, 2006

Good luck with your project!

ryclef331 · May 25, 2006

Its only a couple bucks to get them and yeah, it'd be some insurance against detonation. I never needed them. I just closed the gap on my stock heat range plugs to .035 instead of .052." Here is a chart for ya with the part numbers

5.0
Stock E7 heads:
AUTOLITE
stock--stock 25 (5) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--24 (4) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--23 (3) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----AR133 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR132 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR131 (1) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
stock--(UR45) 6945 (Heat Range - 4) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--(UR55) 2248 (5) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--(UR6) 7773 (6) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----(R5673-8) 3249 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5673-9) 3442 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5673-10) 4050 (10) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

In my book on a 5.0, Autolite or Motorcraft is the only way to go for plugs. I've never tried NGKs simply b/c I don't want to pay for them. STAY AWAY FROM PLATINUM PLUGS ALTOGETHER. if you got out and buy plugs...make SURE you're getting the right ones. Open one of them right there and LOOK at the threads. I've seen too many guys try to buy Autolite 3924s for a car with stock heads. The reach on them is 3/4" of an inch which is WAY too long. Those are for aluminum heads...NOT E7E's. Just walk into the parts store and tell them you want a set of Autolite 24's...NOT 3924s....just 24s. take a plug out of your car in there with you to compare the two if you're unsure of the threads. As far as the gap.....035" should be good...if you got an upgraded ignition, you might be able to get .040" out them...depending on how much you're squeezin'.

JebTonkin · May 25, 2006

Man thanks for the help I really appreciate since I am a 5.0 newb. But a couple other things, like you said I will start off with about a 75 shot and then I would like to eventually go to a 100-150shot, does NX have a 125shot? Or is it just 100 or 150?

ryclef331 · May 25, 2006

I can't answer that one for sure. I use a compucar wet kit. I believe they do though. Lemme know if you got anymore questions. glad to help.

Tattoogod · May 25, 2006

not to piss on your thread or idea. Ive ran nitro,and force fed.IMO supercharging is the way to go.you'll pay about 3500 now ,but once its tuned in your finished,no more filling tanks,and losing pressure or gas when you need it..which Ive done plenty..right in the middle of a race lol.with a blower boom its there everytime and all the time..plus after buying a nitro kit and keep filling it up and all the parts and acc's ,,about a cpl years later you could of bought a nice blower.don't get me wrong the SPRAY is alot of fun.Ive blew a few parts of with the Spray back firing on me and blowing my TB off or cracked it.plus with a blower they sound nasty spooling lol.but of course a purge kit is pretty cool too.like aim the valve to the side of the car and spray a civic when it pulls up next to ya lol.they both are fun..i just like to have something perm if ya know what i mean.good luck with whatever ya decide on. :thumb:

larry94gt · May 25, 2006

n2o is fun. ON my fox body i was able to piece together a NOS wet kit for less than 200 bucks. On these cars with the hyper pistons id be careful......just take it slow, id start with like a 50 then move up from there....and id say yes, definitely get the autolite 24's. u dont need a bigger fuel pump or injectors but be sure to check that youre getting adequate fuel pressure at WOT before you spray. Stock timing is 10*, with the 100+ shot to be safe id back it down to like 8 or so.

I was always worried about being safe and not ruining my motor on my DD stang so i ran a 255 pump, MSD cap rotor, coil and 6a box, autolite 24's gapped @ 35. ON the 1992 HO motor i ran a 150 shot @ 10* stock timing, but the internals are different than tha 94/95's. Anyway, make a pass on a smaller shot, read the plugs and then move up if everything looks okay. Blowers and turbos are nice but n2o is an instant kick in the pants.

have fun be safe

JebTonkin · May 26, 2006

Ok so I need autolite 24's(spark plugs), fuel filter, kit with accessories and set the timing back 2*. Is this right or am I missing something?

Lightning Struck · May 26, 2006

Ive heard that being bottle fed is WAYYYY TO ADICTIVE and can cause problems in the future :

Tattoogod · May 26, 2006

you mean like fried rings,burnt valves,and cracked heads? that comes with any power adder.with the spray its just so easy to go from a 50 shot.to a 75 shot then try and sneak a 125 or 150 in there then boom.any power adder is addictive.I know my blower was.

95CALI-5.0 · May 26, 2006

I think being bottle fed is the way to go if you want a less expensive way to get HP's. It's also good for drag racing. If your going to get into road racing, I would opt for the blower. The power will always be there on tap and no refilling.

larry94gt : your avatar is way to distracting!!!!!
It took me 10 min to read your tread. :hammer:

wytstang · May 26, 2006

If you really want to be safe I would call there tech support and ask if injectors/fuel pump upgrade would be recpmended.

JebTonkin · May 26, 2006

JebTonkin said:
Ok so I need autolite 24's(spark plugs), fuel filter, kit with accessories and set the timing back 2*. Is this right or am I missing something?

Is this right? because I might order today and need to know.

JebTonkin · May 26, 2006

I can't find a place to order an NX kit, can someone give me a link? A link to a Compucar kit would be ok too.

Lightning Struck · May 26, 2006

Tattoogod said:
you mean like fried rings,burnt valves,and cracked heads? that comes with any power adder.with the spray its just so easy to go from a 50 shot.to a 75 shot then try and sneak a 125 or 150 in there then boom.any power adder is addictive.I know my blower was.

addictions can be deadly though :hammer: