not the dizzy either?????

1slow50 · Nov 15, 2013

so this weekend i put in a new dizzy in my 95 5.0 still didnt slove my problem

when i took it out i made sure the rotor was pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap but the timing mark was not on 0???? so i put the new dizzy in and the mark i made under the cap was not in the same position but the base of the dizzy lined up wit the mark on the block. so i tightened it back down and started the car, it started up fine just like b4 i put it in. i then checked the timing so i pulled out the spout conn and the timing was good but when i put the spout back in the idle didnt change and checked the timing after that and it was off. anybody have any idea why the timing is off after i put the spout conn back in???? the problem i am having wit the car is that it starts up and idles but idles a lil rough but as soon as i try to take off it wants to bogg down and stall. i have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy, injectors, maf, temp sensor in intake tube, ign control mod, coil, fuel pump, fuel filter. the only thing i havent replaced is the iac, tps, the lil screen under neith the pcv valve. i know what u guys are gonna say "stop throwing money at it and scan for codes" well i did that and these freakin ob1 scanners r so hard to figure out. i did firgure out the last code on eoer 998 which is a hard fault code and i beleive the other 1 was 157 which is the maf, but already replaced. i know my car is going to throw a code cuz i dont have any cats. the only mods i have are bbk shortys and o/r x pipe and cai. any help????? starting to drive me crazy just ready to put a road flare in the gas tank and say f*@k it. thanks

1slow50 · Nov 15, 2013

i also replaced the 02 sensors

CC'S95GT · Nov 15, 2013

Your car WILL NOT throw a code because you don't have cats. The cats are after the O2 sensor, so the computer doesn't know if there are cats there or not.
Why did you replace the dizzy? What is your timing set to? Did you use a timing light?
The mark on the block means nothing when it comes to setting the timing.

toyman · Nov 15, 2013

I'm thinking the HB my have slipped rendering any timing being read as useless. What's so hard about reading 3 digit codes with an OBDI reader? Did you plug it into the correct port? It's the one in the engine bay, passenger side between the strut tower and the firewall.

1slow50 · Nov 15, 2013

Yes I used a timing light, I set it at 10 deg. I replaced it cuz mine had a big crack under the pip sensor n was corrid at the base where it meets the block. It's hard to count the flash/beeps trying to separate them. Yea I pluged underneath the hood pass side strut tower. I also tried adjusting it by ear still didn't get better. I read sumtin b4 bout a hb slipping but would that make it read correct when spout out n off when in? The code 157 is the maf, I put a new 1 on, could it not be getting enough volts or sumtin goin to it? And if so what could cause that?

FivePoint0 · Dec 1, 2013

Are you saying that after setting the timing to stock base of 10*BTDC with the spout unplugged, your timing is changing when the spout is plugged back in?

If so that is correct. When you plug the spout back in the computer will immediately change the timing to 30-40* BTDC.

This is normal. Upon pulling the spout back out while the engine is running it should pretty much immediately change back to whatever you tightened down the dizzy bolt when setting the base timing. **If the timing is not back to base when the spout is unplugged then either your spout wiring is closed (grounded or touching each other in the harness somewhere) or possible slippage, either the HB or your dizzy isn't tight enough.

I can speak from experience when I say the reluctor wheel inside the dizzy is extremely important.
It along with the PIP controls your spark and fuel injection pulse times.

You're welcome to unplug the IAC (which is the top plug in front of the TPS) while the engine is running.
See how it runs with the IAC unplugged / then plug it back in. Any changes?

The MAF and IAC are 2 quick tests you can try to see whether or not a major change is noticed when they are unplugged when the engine is running.

1slow50 · Dec 3, 2013

Yea that's what I was saying, I didn't know if it was suppose to do that or not. I pulled the codes also. Koeo code 512 "keep alive memory fail. Koer codes 998 "hard fault" and 157 "mass air flow below minimum voltage". I think the 157 code is caused by a short in a wire goin to the mass air flow. But the 998 hard fault code I have no clue what that is or what is causing it and the same wit the 512. Any 1 else know what they mean and what could cause them???? I'm stumped

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duh09 · Dec 3, 2013

1slow50 said:
Yea that's what I was saying, I didn't know if it was suppose to do that or not. I pulled the codes also. Koeo code 512 "keep alive memory fail. Koer codes 998 "hard fault" and 157 "mass air flow below minimum voltage". I think the 157 code is caused by a short in a wire goin to the mass air flow. But the 998 hard fault code I have no clue what that is or what is causing it and the same wit the 512. Any 1 else know what they mean and what could cause them???? I'm stumped

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You should probably fix that then...