Numbers from dyno are in...

[Lee12609]

i dont recommend suspension as quickly as most do. how hard do you plan on launching the car? there are people pulling 1.5 60' times on STOCK suspension. its an excuse for bad times in my opinion.

i recommend lower control arms ONLY if they relocate the mounting location (change instant center), uppers ONLY if yours are trashed, and drag springs ONLY on a drag only car. shocks if you are going adjustable, 70/30s are streetable, but not worth it on a predominantly street driven car. front coilovers and tubular K and lowers are good for weight reduction and transfer, but unless you are launching extremely hard the transfer isnt needed.

point is on full slicks and a clutch drop off the rev limiter i doubt you'll see more than 2 tenths from a full suspension overhaul, which isnt money well spent in my opinion.

another question is why is peak power so low? is the cam installed straight up or advanced?

 

[Rice_slayer]

Straight up, never advanced it. I know for a fact that my LCAs in the back are completely trashed, the bushings are torn bad, just haven't had time to replace them. As for my peak power, I'm looking at my dyno graph and it shows Peak of 270rwhp at 5659rpms and peak torque at 283@4168rpms

 

[Forseth]

Hey man, not to steal your thread but Im pretty much in the same boat as you (my sig) best time I got is a 14.3 with a 2.3 60 ft. unlike you i do have uppers and lowers but still have stock shocks/eibach pros all the way around with 315/35-17 sumitomo's out back. I'm hoping a set of drag radials will help.


Forseth

There has to be something wrong. What was your trap speed?

99.7 couldn't even break 100 It was the first time ever at the track....

 

[CanaryGT]

Just keep goin. You'll improve with more practice!

 

[Rice_slayer]

^^ I'd raise a glass to that! I can drive my car MUCH better after going to the track 2-3 times compared to when I started. Sadly, traction is an issue, but I'm going to price out slicks today, and I already have some donor rims so I'm hoping for the best lol.

 

[Lee12609]

just so everyone knows, your trap speed is the best indication of your possible et, as its determined by power to weight... if you know your trap speed and can get a pretty accurate guess at your 60' time you can figure out your ET.

spinning increases trap speed slightly, so if your 60' is in the 2.4-2.5 range expect about a half MPH slower trap speed on a good run. the reason for higher trap speed when spinning can be found with a simple google search. i dont feel like flooding the thread with a half assed explanation.

 

[Rice_slayer]

I did the google search and got mixed results, but one backed what happened to me. I wasn't SPINNING in the 60', I was spinning BAD when I hit second gear, PAST the 60' mark. I chirped them off the line, and it broke loose as soon as I hit 2nd gear, wasn't spinning throughout first but as soon as I shifted to 2nd the car started spinning, and this was a good 100-300feet into the track...

 

[CanaryGT]

Im actually surprised. You have a larger TB and a Track Heat Intake... I have a 65MM and A Cobra Intake..

 

[Rice_slayer]

how many miles on your bottom end? I'm running an OLD bottom end(229xxxkms or 142k miles). Plus my numbers are on a mustang Dyno and every car is different lol.

 

[Lee12609]

I did the google search and got mixed results, but one backed what happened to me. I wasn't SPINNING in the 60', I was spinning BAD when I hit second gear, PAST the 60' mark. I chirped them off the line, and it broke loose as soon as I hit 2nd gear, wasn't spinning throughout first but as soon as I shifted to 2nd the car started spinning, and this was a good 100-300feet into the track...

i have to call your bluff.

first you say you pulled a 2.5 60', now youre saying you barely spun until the 100-300ft area. so if you barely spun off the line why is the short time so horrible? i pull 2.2 short times in a stock honda on 175/70/13s?

think about it like a little matchbox car. you keep it in your hand and keep rolling it until the wheels are spinning real fast then let it go (tires spinning at the line car not moving though), or hold the car on the ground and one swift movement sling the car (car with slicks and descent 60'). which car will get to the other side of the kitchen floor sooner, and which will hit the wall going faster?

the point is spinning tires increases your speed (watch the speedo), once it starts accelerating at that increased speed you still have the entire track (same distance) to keep accelerating. so if you spin to the top of first gear and then the car hooks you'll be doing what 30mph or so, and still have 1320ft to go, as opposed to not spinning and needing what 50ft or whatever to get to 30mph.....

 

[Forseth]

Hey rice_slayer if you don't mind me asking what kind of tires are you looking for? I found a set of Mickey Thompson drag radials(street/strip 15,000 miles) and was wondering if they would be a good tire to start off with or would it be better to run full slicks (drag only)? I'm finding it some what difficult to find "drag rims" (pro-stars, etc.) that's going to fit the sn95(back spacing and size).

Forseth

 

[Rice_slayer]

I actually have 15" rims off a ranger that I have for donor rims, I test fitted them and they work good! I went and priced out some ET drag slicks today so I'll probably get those. As for the spinning thing, watch the video lee, I probably spun through 1st/2nd but when I shifted to 2nd the rear end started sliding. Moral of the story, don't run street tires at the strip, we'll see what I can run with slicks, until then this argument is useless...

 

[Lee12609]

i see the video now and see what you mean, but spinning once you're accelerating isnt nearly as bad for ET as spinning of the line.

one question, those ranger wheels are probably 15x7, what size slicks do you plan on putting on a 7" wide wheel?

 

[Rice_slayer]

26x8.5x15, and all 3 videos of my racing are like that, but that is the clearest and easiet to see what happened as I'm in the near lane. I actually ran slicks last year on 7" rims and never had issues, but it was my cousin's slicks and the one had no wear holes and was losing PSI FAST.

 

[MustangMoser]

please, please tell me you were not doing a burn out with street tires before you launched. please.

the ricers at my home track, and some of the younger Mustang owners too, kill me with that.

Practice practice practice riceslayer, you'll only get better.

 

[Rice_slayer]

Haha I know. I was reading on the difference between the dyno mine was on (Mustang dyno) vs. a Dynojet( one canary was on). Is there any truth to the whole Mustang dynos read 7-10% LOWER than dynojets? if so my car would put down 290rwhp on a dynojet, but sadly, I don't know where another dyno would be to test that theory out.

 

[CanaryGT]

Nope. Mines just faster..... and it was 115 out... Muahhaahhha

 

[Lee12609]

there is no truth to the dyno differences. some mustang dyno's read higher than dynojets. its all in the calibration. a properly calibrated mustang dyno is the most accurate, but rarely are ANY dyno calibrated correctly.

 

[CanaryGT]

mmmm yes I see..

 

[OnyxCobra]

Everything I've ever seen leans towards if the calibration is correct though the MD will read lower than the DJ.