MustangMoser
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^thats what I've always been told, since MD is a load based dyno.
Numbers from dyno are in...
- Thread starter Rice_slayer
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OnyxCobra
Post Whore
is it that they're out of calibration or is it the user not entering the correct data for the vehicle?
MustangMoser
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How do you know when a dyno is calibrated correctly? I know hp and tq are supposed to cross at 5200 rpm right?
castine917
Well-Known Member
does that mean dyno pulls for power readings are pointless?
Lee12609 said:
It all depends on track prep and conditions. Just b/c one guy pull a 1.5 does not mean everyone else can. And that was with something along the lines of an ET Street or full slick.
Better tires + suspension is the best way to lower your 60' time. Not for hopes of a track that is preped so well that you will cut a 1.5 on stock suspension. That is the exception not the norm. I was cutting on avg of 1.9 to 1.8's on MT Radials and when I went with full slicks and lower control arms from Maxium Motorsports my 60's dropped to 1.66. Your going to need better tires thats a given and I would suggest at least a good set of LCA's. But more then anything though get more practice in at the track. That will lower your tiems more then any other mod and its only the cost of admission. The very first run w/ my current car (after not going to the track for years) was a 14.2. With the addition of 3.73's and MT Radials it dropped to a 12.7 and with going more to the track. You dont need a detroit locker either
castine917 said:
no, it gives you a good idea of where you are. the graphs should be the same regardless of calibration, just higher/lower, so you still learn where your peak is and see the actual curve.
venom you are right, i just think its funny when people pulling 2.1 or higher short times think its suspension. any stock suspension car can easily pull 1.9s on an ET street, so anyone not pulling 1.9-2.0 should be worried about tire before suspension. the right set of lower control arms will plant the tire, but without grip planting it isnt going to help. i say track specific tires, then see if suspension is needed, most of the time (street/daily driven cars) wont reap much reward for the money spent on "track" suspension....
I agree, Im just saying every track is different and traction varies a lot between them. I got to walk the surface of my local track a few weeks ago. They let people on it after a jet car event and I was kinda shocked at how unsticky it really was. I was expecting my shoe to come off but it was not even close and that was an event night where they were running 6 and 7 second cars all night. Ive heard lots of stories of people walking across the track surface and having their shoe come off. There are lots of people that can cut good times on street tires and nittos (which are considered the worse track tire out there, the old ones) but thats with the proper prep and the right suspension set up as well
