Odd running problem

Rallim

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Alright I've had my 94 5.0 for about a year now, it's got almost 180k on it, bone stock for the most part lalala.

Anyways, a few months ago it developed an odd problem. Occasionally it bucks and jerks and will die, then it'll run fine after it starts back up. Sometimes it won't start back up, let it sit for a few minutes and then its as if nothing happened. I've narrowed it down to only happening if it isn't driven for more then say two days, drive it everyday and it doesn't do it. I thought it could be crap in the fuel system somehow, ran some lucas and seafoam through it, did it again today. It's had new tune up stuff, plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter ect... so it isn't something basic as far as I can tell, any ideas? I've never seen anything like it. Been trying to figure it out without reverting to here, but I think it's time to ask for some ideas haha.
 

RichV

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MAF, fuel pump, or injectors would be where I'd start.

Did you pull codes?
 
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Rallim

Rallim

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All the code readers I've tried won't connect via OBD1 or OBD2, otherwise I would. CEL comes on randomly, don't notice a difference in anything when it comes on though. I figured it was the fuel pump originally, but I just figured if it was that it would stay dead. Not sure why it would only be sketchy after sitting, and work fine every day if driven everyday.
 

Raffaelli

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Its a coil or an igniton module.

Replace both and be done with it. :cool:
 

RichV

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Good call, the TFI does weird random shit.
 

stockblocknotch

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its deff the dist they known for it.. like ccs95gt said.. common problem all the 5.0s with that style dist do it from the trucks cars or whatever le sigh
 

toyman

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All the code readers I've tried won't connect via OBD1 or OBD2, otherwise I would. CEL comes on randomly, don't notice a difference in anything when it comes on though. I figured it was the fuel pump originally, but I just figured if it was that it would stay dead. Not sure why it would only be sketchy after sitting, and work fine every day if driven everyday.

And you are connecting it to the data port in the engine bay, correct? The one under the dash is only for the V6 OBDII system. The GT uses an OBDI in the engine bay passenger side between the strut tower and firewall.
 

toyman

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It's not so much the distributor but rather the Hall Effect sensor (PIP) on the distributor. However, it's generally easier to just replace the distributor. Reman distributors do not have a good track record. I've heard that a Richporter uses all new parts and is available for about $100.
 
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Rallim

Rallim

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Sorta suspected the dizzy, wasn't too certain on it though. It's not the coil since that's new, and I plugged in a new ICM and it still had the same problem so it wasn't that either. I'll start looking into a new one, worst case scenario the cars got 180k, couldn't hurt to have a new one.
 

CC'S95GT

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Before you decide to replace the pip. Give the top of the rotor a jiggle. If you feel play in the bushing then you may want to just get a remanned.
I have had issues with remanned dizzys too but at least they come with a warrenty if it should crap out on you in a month.
 

toyman

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It's not the coil since that's new, and I plugged in a new ICM

Always keep saying to yourself, new doesn't always mean good. There is a failure rate for everything made. Not saying that's the case here but your statement "it's not the coil since it's new" has caused many to keep on chasing an issue and buying parts because that new part was in fact faulty.
 

Venom351R

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Few years back I had a break up at 4,000 RPM's. The car would jerk and studder. The newest part on the car was the Abacco Mass Air meter......guess what was causing the problem........
 
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Rallim

Rallim

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I plugged one in that I knew was good from another car and tried that, unless it decided to not work in my car for some reason but work in a friends, I think it was fine.

Anyways, throwing in a new richporter this weekend, will go from there.
 

justi88

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It's not so much the distributor but rather the Hall Effect sensor (PIP) on the distributor. However, it's generally easier to just replace the distributor. Reman distributors do not have a good track record. I've heard that a Richporter uses all new parts and is available for about $100.

I got a reman back in 2010 and its still working fine for me, but i guess like in all remanafactured things, they can fail on you.

+1 on the new parts failing, after my rebuild i put some new ngk spark plugs and didnt last a day. Changed to some autolite platinum and car works perfect.
 
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Rallim

Rallim

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+1 on the pip/distributor. Advanced auto parts has lifetime waranty.

I work at an O'Reilly's :p

Richporter isn't much difference in price with employee pricing, and I've got plans for it so I'd rather not go remanned anyways.

I have either autolight copper plugs, or motorcraft copper plugs... don't remember which, they're both the same thing since Autolite makes them anyways.
 
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Rallim

Rallim

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*UPDATE* In case anyone wanted one

Over a month later, the water pump on my 540 died so I needed to drive this everyday again, so finally threw in the new distributor today. So far it seems gone, played with the timing a bit, a little bit past 10* I think. It's a pain to use a timing light from what me and a friend could tell, but just playing with it and it seems right now, just need to go with some higher octane for the slightly more advanced timing. The little up and down I had at idle seems to be gone, runs a little bit better all around. Hopefully it stays this way, this is just day one but happy so far.
 
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