Order On Hold Need Help (Suspension)

Mustangman9812

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Hey Again,

As you know i am doing some looks/suspension upgrades to my 98 GT, well i had ordered a Crap load of stuff but have canceld it untill i can get this right.

Ok What I Am Looking At Buying Now, But dont know what i need for Coil Over Setup besides Kit (This Is Where I Need Help)

MM Coil-Over Kit(What Spring Rate???)
Steeda Adjustable Heavy-Duty UCA's
MM Adjustable Extreme Duty LCA's
MM Panhard Bar
MM Full Lenth Subframes

What Yeh Think? and What Else Do I Need? Suggestions?

Thanks
 

Schiffy

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AaRoN said:
Nix the adj. UCA's and stay with stockers.

I disagree... the stockers flex way to much, they're just stamped steel... if you want to drag race, get adjustables, that way you can adjust the angle of the pinion for hard launches, however, for streetability, i would get just a solid non adjustable. the stockers like i said flex a lot, if you're going to do the lowers, you might as well do the uppers to. if you DO, do both, then you can get rid of the stupid ass quad shock, because the new solid U/L arms will be strong enough to keep the rearend from moving...
 

AaRoN

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BadBlack95GT said:
AaRoN said:
Nix the adj. UCA's and stay with stockers.

I disagree... the stockers flex way to much, they're just stamped steel... if you want to drag race, get adjustables, that way you can adjust the angle of the pinion for hard launches, however, for streetability, i would get just a solid non adjustable. the stockers like i said flex a lot, if you're going to do the lowers, you might as well do the uppers to. if you DO, do both, then you can get rid of the stupid ass quad shock, because the new solid U/L arms will be strong enough to keep the rearend from moving...

Not from what I've heard. Maybe someone who has had aftermarket uppers will chime in and explain.
 

Paul

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BadBlack95GT said:
I disagree... the stockers flex way to much, they're just stamped steel... if you want to drag race, get adjustables, that way you can adjust the angle of the pinion for hard launches, however, for streetability, i would get just a solid non adjustable. the stockers like i said flex a lot, if you're going to do the lowers, you might as well do the uppers to. if you DO, do both, then you can get rid of the stupid ass quad shock, because the new solid U/L arms will be strong enough to keep the rearend from moving...

OEM uppers are a good idea for a streetcar due to the poor design of the quadra-bind rear suspension in a Mustang. The deflection in stock rubber bushings helps to reduce bind when cornering because the upper control arms are unable to change length as the axle pivots. Solid uppers have virtually zero deflection, so the dramatic increase in wheel rate (potentially several thousand percent) as the axle goes into bind can cause all sorts of unwanted drama such as wheelhop and snap oversteer.

Further, the quad shocks are in place to dampen the effects of suspension bind, and I personally wouldn't remove them unless I changed to a different style of suspension.

My .02




Shouldn't this be in the suspension section?


Paul.
 

Dalamar

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Let's think this through guys, Torque arm replaces the upper control arms.
3 link > 4 link in every aspect.
they are correct though if your staying 4 link rear, stock or FFRP uppers are requried for the screwed up geometry of the mustang's 4- link rear susp.

Good move on going with Maximum Motorsports, changing to a 3 link with the panhard will make your car move up 3 spots on the handeling evolutinary chart. the difference is amazing.
I've got all the stuff on your list and more, so I can give you some practical feedback.

I'd suggest going with MM's LCA's they're proven and very well made. you can go adjustable lowers with springs if you don't want ot pay for the coilovers on the rear.

Other that you want good and wide tires.
Also, K member and A arms are nice for weight loss, but kinda pricy.
not necessary for street driving, but tha'ts up to you.

On your spring rate, call Maximum motorsports and get a recommendation from them based on your list of parts your chaning and driving goals.

With coil overs on the front you will NEED MM's 4 bolt caster camber plates, read up on this. MM's web site has very thurough descriptions for all their parts.
You'll also want a bump steer if you're lowering your car a lot.

Then when it comes time to order, go through stang suspension, you'll get a better price than from MM.

good luck.

BTW, there's a suspension forum in the General area if you want to get into more details.
 

Dalamar

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Paul explained the upper bind issues to those wondering.

Quad shocks - just a bandaid to a crappy sloppy design IMO.



I'd also suggest you don't change your front sway bar, changing to a torque arm moves the roll center forward, and you'll need the softer stock bar for movement up front. If you go stiffer, you'll get understeer.

Other than that, you may want to look at the adjustable rear sway bar to get the front/rear balance just right.
and Billisteen struts have better dampening than the Koni's - but do cost a little more.
 

19mustang95

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So, before anyone tells you what suspension to get, you need to inform people in which way you want the vehicle to perform..do you want the best suspension to go in a straight line, or do you want to take it to the auto-x, or do you just want a nice street suspension?? People need to know these things before they should recommend suspension components....
 

realitygt

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DFG_Pimpin said:
So, before anyone tells you what suspension to get, you need to inform people in which way you want the vehicle to perform..do you want the best suspension to go in a straight line, or do you want to take it to the auto-x, or do you just want a nice street suspension?? People need to know these things before they should recommend suspension components....

Mustangman9812 said:
Street/Drag But Want Looks Also
 

94 DropTop

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ya dont fuck with the upper control arms. ever time i put the car in drive and reverse and sometimes taking off the suspension binds. UCA FTL
 

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