pi heads on a 4v block?

[reivaxtorres]

Oh and you will need a different timing cover, your iron block 2v wont work.

says who?


my current setup:

01 WAP block
01 Cobra Crank
03 Mach1 Rods/Pistons
03 PI heads
01 Bullitt Manifold
98 Timing chain tensioners
98 Timing chains
98 new timing guides for a 98 GT
98 GT timing cover (1 bolt doesnt match up, all i did was use RTV to plug the hole. no leaks at all)
98 Cobra intake tube

 

[reivaxtorres]

oh yeah, and im still running the 19lb injectors for now, have 24lbs in waiting to install when i do the tune.

no, i dont know what the hp/tq numbers are yet, barely have about 500 miles on this combo. waiting for about 1000-1500 before i do the tune.

compression: i keep getting different answers, some calculators i use give me 12.1:1, others give me 13:1; im thinking im really in the 11.9:1 range.

 

[aarons_4six]

about how much do you have invested?

 

[5.slower]

Do you feel a big difference? That is the same build up I plan on mine with a 150 shot off the line.

 

[duff daddy]

Oh and you will need a different timing cover, your iron block 2v wont work.

says who?


my current setup:

01 WAP block
01 Cobra Crank
03 Mach1 Rods/Pistons
03 PI heads
01 Bullitt Manifold
98 Timing chain tensioners
98 Timing chains
98 new timing guides for a 98 GT
98 GT timing cover (1 bolt doesnt match up, all i did was use RTV to plug the hole. no leaks at all)
98 Cobra intake tube

That ws my point the iron block timing cover will not work perfectly for the teksid. the one bolt hole for the water pump wont match. THUS the need for a 99 GT timing cover.

 

[reivaxtorres]

about how much do you have invested?

way too much. on the engine alone....

$300 in machine work (polished crank, hone the block, new rod and main bearings, new rings)
$300 for the 01 longblock (had a broken rod, didnt come with the intake manifold)
$100 for used 03 mach1 pistons (same as any other 4v pistons)
$200 for brand new side bolts (got them from ford....$20 a piece and you need 10!!!)
$100 for MMR main bolts
$115 for FRPP headswap kit
all work (except machine shop work) was done by me.

now on the entire car....i've got waaaayyy too much invested. t-56, IRS, wilwood brakes, etc.

 

[reivaxtorres]

Do you feel a big difference? That is the same build up I plan on mine with a 150 shot off the line.

yeah, its a big difference in throttle response. picks up a lot quicker. car feels a bit lighter too, but its not because of the block (had the block with NPI pistons in there too). also.....if you plan on going with the WAP shortblock and the PI heads AND the 150 shot, that might be too much for the stock internals.

 

[reivaxtorres]

Oh and you will need a different timing cover, your iron block 2v wont work.

says who?


my current setup:

01 WAP block
01 Cobra Crank
03 Mach1 Rods/Pistons
03 PI heads
01 Bullitt Manifold
98 Timing chain tensioners
98 Timing chains
98 new timing guides for a 98 GT
98 GT timing cover (1 bolt doesnt match up, all i did was use RTV to plug the hole. no leaks at all)
98 Cobra intake tube

That ws my point the iron block timing cover will not work perfectly for the teksid. the one bolt hole for the water pump wont match. THUS the need for a 99 GT timing cover.

my point is that you dont NEED the 99GT timing cover, you can use the romeo timing cover, you just have to use it missing one bolt and you have to fill that hole with RTV. not trying to argue with you, just making a point that you dont need to spend the extra $40-100 for the windsor 2v timing cover when you can use the romeo 2v timing cover and a little RTV :headbang:

 

[aarons_4six]

thats not bad, at least i dont think. im intrested in what power its going to make. i was thinking a stock crank, forged rods and dish pistons if i go the s/c route

 

[reivaxtorres]

thats not bad, at least i dont think. im intrested in what power its going to make. i was thinking a stock crank, forged rods and dish pistons if i go the s/c route

thats not a bad idea, except if you are going to go with the forged rods and pistons, if it were me, id spring for the forged crank as well. its not needed, but sure wouldnt hurt to have it.

oh, and if you do go with the high compression n/a route, i suggest you find yourself a working shortblock. rebuilding one is somewhat of a hassle. unless you really want the experience

and as for power levels, im curious too. i really hope it will be worth the money ive spent (prob not). with the stock NPI shortblock, PI swap, and supporting mods, i was making 270rwhp and 313rwtq. since then ive done the shortblock swap and installed the bullitt manifold. im really hoping to get close to the 300rwhp mark, tho im thinking mid 280ish is where im gonna end up.

 

[aarons_4six]

any increase is good, plus a wieght shaving helps too

 

[duff daddy]

and as for power levels, im curious too. i really hope it will be worth the money ive spent (prob not). with the stock NPI shortblock, PI swap, and supporting mods, i was making 270rwhp and 313rwtq. since then ive done the shortblock swap and installed the bullitt manifold. im really hoping to get close to the 300rwhp mark, tho im thinking mid 280ish is where im gonna end up.

As I had for power was 304 last year with pi heads, 270 cams and basic supporting mods. This will be interesting to see where you sit and as to where I am with mine.

Where are you on oyur bild right now?

 

[reivaxtorres]

and as for power levels, im curious too. i really hope it will be worth the money ive spent (prob not). with the stock NPI shortblock, PI swap, and supporting mods, i was making 270rwhp and 313rwtq. since then ive done the shortblock swap and installed the bullitt manifold. im really hoping to get close to the 300rwhp mark, tho im thinking mid 280ish is where im gonna end up.

As I had for power was 304 last year with pi heads, 270 cams and basic supporting mods. This will be interesting to see where you sit and as to where I am with mine.

Where are you on oyur bild right now?

yea, it would be curious to see. like i said, i've learned to not have high hopes when it comes to power output, lol.

my build for now is about 90% done, the car is running but it def. needs a tune. shortblock with new bearings/rings is complete, new gaskets all around (except for the intake manifold gaskets which i reused and are now leaking....those will be changed soon). so far i have about 500 miles or so on the new motor, im waiting to get about 1000-1500 before i tune it, just to give it enough time to break in.

things still left to do:
1) install cooler spark plugs (im thinking 2 ranges colder)
2) install 24lb injectors (have them already...tried installing them but the car ran way too rich, waiting to install right before tune)
3) replace intake manifold gaskets
4) toy with the idea of an E85 conversion.
5) tune.


im toying with the e85 conversion simply because all we have out here in cali is 91octane gas, and as it sits, the car has the factory tune (i restored it instead of running the PI swap tune...just to be safe) with 5 degrees of timing removed, and it was still knocking. thought about either removing more timing for the time being, or adding the octane booster, and decided to add the octane booster and now the knocking is gone (except in 6th gear....but only when going uphill). E85 i supposed to cost less, but have an octane rating of 105/110, so i can run more timing and not loose out on so much power. prob do a 91 octane tune and an e85 tune if i do end up doing that.....only 1 station out here within 100 miles that sells e85. lol.

 

[duff daddy]

E85 is good its real easy to do but you need a little bit more on fuel delivery side to run them. The 100 mile drive each way is unrealistic for you to make it a viable fuel choice. I looked in to it, my fuel system is good enough and i have one place which is 50 mile round trip, im not doing it. Id wrather run c10 or Sunoco 104 and go from there. The savings on E85 makei t nice but the added drive make it unrealistic to use.

 

[reivaxtorres]

E85 is good its real easy to do but you need a little bit more on fuel delivery side to run them. The 100 mile drive each way is unrealistic for you to make it a viable fuel choice. I looked in to it, my fuel system is good enough and i have one place which is 50 mile round trip, im not doing it. Id wrather run c10 or Sunoco 104 and go from there. The savings on E85 makei t nice but the added drive make it unrealistic to use.

yeah, see, the closest e85 station is about 10 or so miles away, and the next closest is about 100 miles away. the one that is 10 miles away is actually only a slight detour on my way to work (or home), so its not that bad for me. i cant really justify running on anything other than 91 octane when it comes to fuel. closest thing i can get is 100 octane, and even then, its about $8 a gallon, and there is no way im going to be spending that much on gas for a daily driver (yes, the car is still my daily)

i was talking to a company out in the midwest, called hi-tech motorsports, i guess they have done the e85 conversion on several cars, mostly for performance but also for just the savings, and the guy i spoke to was very knowledgeable. he mentioned that since i already had the SVO fuel pump, already had the 24lb injectors waiting to go in, that all i would need is just an adjustabe FPR to crank the pressure up to about 54psi, and a tune. so i dunno. i might go to the junkyard one of these weekends to pick up a 96-97 fuel rail and just get an FPR to try the idea. figure if it doesnt work, i can still use the FPR and the rails, so it wouldnt really be a waste of money.

 

[duff daddy]

You do understand that all you need to run e85 is the ability to compensate for the added amount of fuel needed. So if your fuel pump and injectors can carry the load youll be fine. This is how a bunch of NMRA guys have done the swap

 

[reivaxtorres]

You do understand that all you need to run e85 is the ability to compensate for the added amount of fuel needed. So if your fuel pump and injectors can carry the load youll be fine. This is how a bunch of NMRA guys have done the swap

yup. havent had time to go see what the duty cycle is on the current stock injectors right now, but im guestimating they are close to the limits, which is why the 24lb injectors are going in. the fuel pump was upgraded because my stock one was on its way out, it was cheaper to upgrade. the rails id only upgrade if i really need the FPR, since i cant just upgrade the FPR on my car (thank you ford, for welding it on)


im heading out to that local gas station today to see what the prices and availibility is on the e85, so far i have about 900 miles on the motor so its getting close to tune time, but my gasket is still leaking so i gotta fix that this weekend.

 

[duff daddy]

sweet man good luck

 

[vermilion]

TFS/ford timing accessories.
MMR stroker 850 kit
03 WAP Block 4 bolt main.
03 Explorer p/p'ed PI heads
Crower stage 2 cams
Mac longtubes
Reichard Racing Intake
60lb injectors
SCT BA2400 Maf

this is not together yet but once im on land its going in for assembly and break in. then its getting a T-trim @ 15PSI and TKO 600.

1. a 94-95 tbird or 99 timing cover will work.
2. drilling the drivers side on the block for a coolant passage for romeo heads is almost needed (relief of hot spot)
3. WAP is 8lbs lighter than a teksid.
4. make it positively known that the block's aluminum deck has to be super slick when milled.