Pi headswap, underway.

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I wanted to know if you guys had anymore suggestions or anything like that for me. This is my first time. How do I get the fuel rail off with out messing anything up? Also, it looks as if the driver side head is gonna be a pain to take off with out taking off the power steering stuff. Do i have to take the power steering stuff off or no? Let me know, Im hoping to finish by tommorow night.
 

reivaxtorres

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for the fuel rail, just unplug it from the passanger side with the disconnect tools, and then unplug each injector FROM THE MANIFOLD. do not unplug them from the fuel rail, that way all 8 injectors and both fuel rails come out as one.

and yup, all you have to do is unbolt the resivour (or however you spell it) from the timing cover, and there are 2 or 3 bolts to loosen the power steering pump. other than that, you dont have to mess with anything else in regards to the power steering
 
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If i unpluig the resevor is a bunch of fluid gonna poor out? I am so pissed right now. The two bottom bolts on the valve covers, closest to the firewall, wont come out. I cant get them out, its too tight of a space. :wall: :wall: Everything else is out. manifold, and all that good shit.
 

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brightwhite98GT said:
If i unpluig the resevor is a bunch of fluid gonna poor out? I am so pissed right now. The two bottom bolts on the valve covers, closest to the firewall, wont come out. I cant get them out, its too tight of a space. :wall: :wall: Everything else is out. manifold, and all that good shit.

well when i said take off the resevour, i meant take the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bracket off. then just make sure the cap is on good, and just move it out of the way. no need to unplug any lines or anything.


and as for the 2 rear bolts, do this:

short 8mm socket + 1/8" swivel + 1/8" to 1/4" adapter + 6" long 1/4" extension. this will work, trust me.
 

BrandoGT

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reivaxtorres said:
well when i said take off the resevour, i meant take the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bracket off. then just make sure the cap is on good, and just move it out of the way. no need to unplug any lines or anything.


and as for the 2 rear bolts, do this:

short 8mm socket + 1/8" swivel + 1/8" to 1/4" adapter + 6" long 1/4" extension. this will work, trust me.

Thats all I did, I think I ziptied the resevior to keep it out of my way. It was not a problem
 

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BrandoGT said:
reivaxtorres said:
well when i said take off the resevour, i meant take the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bracket off. then just make sure the cap is on good, and just move it out of the way. no need to unplug any lines or anything.


and as for the 2 rear bolts, do this:

short 8mm socket + 1/8" swivel + 1/8" to 1/4" adapter + 6" long 1/4" extension. this will work, trust me.

Thats all I did, I think I ziptied the resevior to keep it out of my way. It was not a problem

yeah, i zip tied mine too. just to give me extra room to work, i also removed the coolant overflow tank and the fan.
 

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i unbolted it and drained it, and there were 4 bolts in my powersteering pump. To get to the one u have to take the fitting off, so thats why i drained my system.
 

reivaxtorres

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MustangMatt96GT said:
i unbolted it and drained it, and there were 4 bolts in my powersteering pump. To get to the one u have to take the fitting off, so thats why i drained my system.

was it four? i thought there was 3 at the most....but no, you dont have to take off the fitting, it would take a good 20 minutes without taking off the fitting, but you can do it.
- take out all the other bolts from the pump
- with a small wrench, loosen the bolt as much as you can.
-now, pull on the pump as far as it will go.
-now loosen the bolt some more, and repeat these steps.
 

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Yes there were four. I did it that way ^ and it worked fine. Just took forever. Get a ratcheting wrench though... saves you a ton of time.
 
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reivaxtorres said:
brightwhite98GT said:
If i unpluig the resevor is a bunch of fluid gonna poor out? I am so pissed right now. The two bottom bolts on the valve covers, closest to the firewall, wont come out. I cant get them out, its too tight of a space. :wall: :wall: Everything else is out. manifold, and all that good shit.

well when i said take off the resevour, i meant take the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bracket off. then just make sure the cap is on good, and just move it out of the way. no need to unplug any lines or anything.


and as for the 2 rear bolts, do this:

short 8mm socket + 1/8" swivel + 1/8" to 1/4" adapter + 6" long 1/4" extension. this will work, trust me.

Alright, sounds good. I am at school right now, but I will for sure try that when I get home. I guess I will remove the resevour too. I just didnt want to have to bleed it or anything if I drained it, but as long as I get the right bolts lol. Any advice on timing? I heard from somewhere you didnt have to take the timing cover off, but I dont see how that would work and have the timing be correct. Can anyone shine some light on this for me?
 

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brightwhite98GT said:
reivaxtorres said:
brightwhite98GT said:
If i unpluig the resevor is a bunch of fluid gonna poor out? I am so pissed right now. The two bottom bolts on the valve covers, closest to the firewall, wont come out. I cant get them out, its too tight of a space. :wall: :wall: Everything else is out. manifold, and all that good shit.

well when i said take off the resevour, i meant take the 2 bolts that hold it onto the bracket off. then just make sure the cap is on good, and just move it out of the way. no need to unplug any lines or anything.


and as for the 2 rear bolts, do this:

short 8mm socket + 1/8" swivel + 1/8" to 1/4" adapter + 6" long 1/4" extension. this will work, trust me.

Alright, sounds good. I am at school right now, but I will for sure try that when I get home. I guess I will remove the resevour too. I just didnt want to have to bleed it or anything if I drained it, but as long as I get the right bolts lol. Any advice on timing? I heard from somewhere you didnt have to take the timing cover off, but I dont see how that would work and have the timing be correct. Can anyone shine some light on this for me?

you can get away with not taking off the timing cover if you are doing the PI Cams ONLY. since you are doing the entire head swap, you need to take off the timing cover. the crank pulley will need an air gun to remove the bolt since its on there tight.

as for timing, set the #1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC) and all the timing marks should match, then all you have to do is remove the chains and cams, swap the heads, and then re-install the cams and the chains according to the timing marks on the cam gears and on the chains.

look at the write up that stickied up on the top, lots of good timing info in there. ill be around later on today if you need more help
 
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Dang. I dont have any air tools at all. I'll have to just use a giant breaker bar lol. Hopefully that will work. Also, Im not sure where the cam gears are on my new heads. How do I rotate the gears if they arent at the TDC mark on the heads? I really appreciate all the help you have been giving me though. Im sure I will be back later on for more help.
 
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Okay. Problem with that pump over the driver side valve cover. Im not sure where to unbolt it at. Im not sure if i should unbolt it at the fire wall, or in the middle where there is 5 bolts? Im not sure. Please help!
 

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brightwhite98GT said:
Okay. Problem with that pump over the driver side valve cover. Im not sure where to unbolt it at. Im not sure if i should unbolt it at the fire wall, or in the middle where there is 5 bolts? Im not sure. Please help!

yeah, the brake booster doesnt have to come off at all!


as for the cams, look at the stickies at the top of the page, there are some writeups in there that show you where the cams should be. if not, then just set the engine to top dead center BEFORE YOU TAKE THE CHAINS OFF. then just match the timing marks on the NPI cam gears to those on the PI gears,a nd you should be fine
 
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Okay so now I have hit a serious rut. I unbolted the crank pully (3 rachets later), and the pully still wont come off. Also, how do i get the pully on the drivers side next to it off. The big one. Thanks in advance.
 

MustangMatt96GT

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pully next the crank pully is the Power steering pully. Take the whole pump off.


And get air tools for the crank pully.
 
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Crank pully is almost off. I got the bolt off. And I have a pully puller. I just stopped working on it today because beating my head into the wall, close to literally. I accomplished close to nothing the whole day I worked on it today. I got so much done yesterday, and today I do 2 1/2 pullies and a valve cover. :wall: How do I get the bolts from behind the brake booster. I am stuck on the one closest to the firewall on the bottom. I went out and bought that moving elbow thingy for the ratchet.
 

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brightwhite98GT said:
Crank pully is almost off. I got the bolt off. And I have a pully puller. I just stopped working on it today because beating my head into the wall, close to literally. I accomplished close to nothing the whole day I worked on it today. I got so much done yesterday, and today I do 2 1/2 pullies and a valve cover. :wall: How do I get the bolts from behind the brake booster. I am stuck on the one closest to the firewall on the bottom. I went out and bought that moving elbow thingy for the ratchet.

yeah, the 2nd pulley you are talking about is the power steering, leave that one alone. it comes off with the pump. use the pulley puller for the crank.

and as for the lower bolt on the valve cover, did you do it exactly as i said, using the 8mm short socket made for the 1/8" ratchet, then the elbow "swivel" (also for 1/8" ratchet), then the adapter for 18" to 1/4", then the extension?

if i remember right (ill take a look at it tomorrow moring to make sure....its 10:30 already and im in bed. laptop ftw!) you have to get at it from a weird angle. ill try to set everything up the same way when i did it and take pics tomorrow.
 

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