Power seat question

ttocs

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put the voltmeter on Vdc and then put one end on the chassis, then try testing each wire as one should show +12v.
 
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Daryl

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put the voltmeter on Vdc and then put one end on the chassis, then try testing each wire as one should show +12v.
Ok, probably tomorrow though. Buddy of mine dad is passing; out drowning his sorrows. Sucks. Will start again tomorrow. Sorry, but cheers!
 
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Daryl

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I’m going to try that this morning. If that doesn’t work, I was thinking, “why can’t I just swap the seat tracks that I have?” The passenger seat has been sat in once since I’ve owned the car, so no big deal if the non-working driver seat track and the functional passenger seat track are swapped, right?
 
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Daryl

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All 4 wires read 1.9

…IF I did it right?
 

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Daryl

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I went ahead and swapped the seat tracks. Drivers side easy enough. Passenger side with the “stuck” electric seat track is a bitch to get the rear bolts back in. If I could just get it to start threading! I’ll do the 40,000
1/8th turns to tighten them down…. If I could just get them started!! I actually ran the outboard bolt up from the bottom but couldn’t thread the nylon nut on it. Not enough sticking thru to bite, which seems strange in itself.
 
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Daryl

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did you try different ground locations as well as different wires? That is strange....
Yes, I touched the (black) ground wire to the seat bolt sticking out of the floor pan and also to the floor pan itself utilizing the precut hole in the carpeting that exposes a hole (?)
 

ttocs

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if your touching it to a painted part of the floor pan then that could be a problem but not sure what to say here. I would start to trace the wiring either in the car or on the schematics to see where there are connections to check. I have not been able to find my wiring bible unfortunately....
 

cobrajeff96

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You should be able to probe the ground pin in the seat connector coming from floorpan. It should be a 2-pole connector (+ & -). That's a far better method. And it should be always hot even without key-on. So if you see no power there, there's likely a break in the wire somewhere or the fuse is in fact blown but it wasn't overtly obvious and you missed it.
 
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Daryl

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You should be able to probe the ground pin in the seat connector coming from floorpan. It should be a 2-pole connector (+ & -). That's a far better method. And it should be always hot even without key-on. So if you see no power there, there's likely a break in the wire somewhere or the fuse is in fact blown but it wasn't overtly obvious and you missed it.
Awesome, thx Jeff. That helps a lot. I believe I did check it that way as well as a couple of other iterations, but I’ll recheck the wires.
Regarding the fuses, how do I check them, even if they look unbroken and in tact?
Sorry to bother you so much step-by-step but I truly have no knowledge on this.

Cheers and thx again!!
 

cobrajeff96

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Not hard at all. Just turn the multimeter to the ohm function, or better yet the one with the sound wave icon. Just touch the leads together for starters and you should hear a beep. After that, just pull the fuse, touch each probe lead onto both sides of the fuse contacts. If it beeps, it's good.
 
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Daryl

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All 17 check good… got the sound alert on each
 
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Daryl

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I just checked the 2 wire coming up from the floor pan. I put the black lead on the all black wire and the red on the blue/white wire. I got no reading at the sound bar setting; 6.+ at the Omega symbol setting; and 40 and climbing when on the red selector (oriented at about 1:00), which reads “10 MegOhm input DCV”. Whatever the heck that means!

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Daryl

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(oops, double post)
 

ttocs

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did you check for dc voltage between the two, or have you only gone from one wire to the seat bolt?
 

cobrajeff96

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That ohm/continuity measurement test was only for fuses (unplugged). To measure whether you have DC voltage coming out of the floorpan connector, you need to use DC voltage and probe the same way you did. Two different kinds of tests.
 
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Daryl

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Unplugged? Ok, it’s a “do-over”!…

Ok, redid it. All still “beep”, unplugged!

Scott,
I left the voltmeter where it was when I just checked the (unplugged this time) fuses. I used that same “sound wave” symbol setting at 5:00. Nothing registered with the black lead on the black wire and red lead on the other. It just displayed .0L

I just switched wires/leads. Same: .0L
 
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ttocs

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the sound wave setting is just a quick way to see if there is continuity, meaning that everything is still connected. So for checking fuses, checking wires, checking grounds that is when you use it just to make sure things are connected. It is not for testing voltage.

put the meter on Vdc, and then touch the two wires. It does not matter pos/neg, if you have them backwards it will just show up as a negative voltage so -12.5v instead of +12.5. Just ignore the +- symbol and make sure you have good contact on the two wires.
 
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Daryl

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When I set the selector on the DCV position, the numbers start at sixty something then slowly decreased to about 18, then started increasing again.
I thinks it’s a poltergeist!
 

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