ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
for more power of course. I am getting ready to run dual 0 awg, but I will also have 4 amps, 2 batteries and 2500 watts.
Power wire
- Thread starter Insayne
- Start date
rainman my amp only requires 4 gauge but i got a deal on 2 gauge so i ran with it and i can always upgrade later. i saw the rubber stop your talking about but for what ever reason it didnt go through to the cab. i ended up running straight from the battery into the fender then back to the main grommet these guys were talking about. hopefully i can mount the amp and cap and finish mmy trimming. its been 2 weeks and im getting tired of not having a sub. 
jesus ttocs what are you doing with all that?
jesus ttocs what are you doing with all that?
TheRainman
Member
rainman my amp only requires 4 gauge but i got a deal on 2 gauge so i ran with it and i can always upgrade later. i saw the rubber stop your talking about but for what ever reason it didnt go through to the cab. i ended up running straight from the battery into the fender then back to the main grommet these guys were talking about. hopefully i can mount the amp and cap and finish mmy trimming. its been 2 weeks and im getting tired of not having a sub.
AH, cool, that way you can always go bigger with amps too. I know what you mean I just redid my setup this week because I was missing that bass.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
3 - 10" woofers in the trunk, 2 - 9" woofers in the doors, and 5" and 1" in the kick panels and in the rear deck. I know it makes me sound like a basshead but that is not the idea as I grew out of that phase long ago for the most part. Don't get me wrong with just a twist of the right knob it should be able to shut an ricer down but I am really more into SQ then spl. I installed stereos for 15 yrs and in that time only really had two custom stereos during that time. 2nd goal of the stereo is to make it all easily removable so that when I go to the track I can yank it out in under 30 mins and re-install in under 30 mins.
Also I guess I should qualify that they are not both runs of power wire, one is ground. I will be running dual batts in the trunk from stinger and in the name of SQ all the audio equpment will be grounded to that run to reduce possiblity of noise and ground loops.
Also I guess I should qualify that they are not both runs of power wire, one is ground. I will be running dual batts in the trunk from stinger and in the name of SQ all the audio equpment will be grounded to that run to reduce possiblity of noise and ground loops.
Good lord. I can't imagine doing any of that. My install has been such a pain it's not even funny. All for a friggin cap I was givin. Mounting the cap and amp to the back of the seat and running 2 gauge for everything has just beat me down. Not to mention with the seat down it looks good then I put the seat up and all the extra wire looks stupid. its just not what I invisioned. Although I do have my sub back. Gonna have to re run grounds as I'm unhappy with the way it is currently. Lame.
its just not what I invisioned. Although I do have my sub back. Gonna have to re run grounds as I'm unhappy with the way it is currently. Lame.I dunno if how my stuff is set up is going to work. I have the cap mounted vertically to the back of the drivers side rear seat with the amp next to it with the wiring running between the two then down between the chasis and the upper seat frame. Then run some self tappers into the chasis for the grounds. The issue I run into is when the seat is down the wiring needs to be longer so when I close the seat the excess wire looks like shit. I don't know what to do to keep it clean.
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