Rear Brakes

[uncltrvlnmatt]

I hate them. Is there any kind of trick to getting the rear calipers on. I have them screwed all the way in, but they won't go on. it is like they need to screw in more, but won't. I had the same problem the last time I did rear brakes, and ended up buying new calipers, but if I remember right it did not help. there is probably dirt in the threads and it won't bottom out or something. I am ready to go buy a new friggin caliper again.

Not only that but I was working the emergency brake cable to make sure it was free, and it became dislodged from the brake handle. I amso friggin pissed.

 

[jc95gt]

do you have the little tool looks like a cube with little nipples that come off of it...its used to retract the piston..
ill get a picture of the tool, just gotta go out to my car lol

they are like $7 i think from pep boys, auto zone, etc.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Nope, I put it in a vise and turned it in with a needle nose pliers.

 

[NotQuik]

I used the cube myself with a rachet to turn it....however i had to use the side of the cube with 4 nipples and grin two of them off.

 

[jc95gt]

did u open the brake bleeder screw before compressing the pistons?

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

did u open the brake bleeder screw before compressing the pistons?

I put the caliper in a vise and turned it in with a needle nose pliers!!!!!!!! goofball!!!!!!!

 

[Peter]

any excess fluid would go back into the MC anyways, you shouldn't need to open the bleeder screw and I really wouldnt, just a chance for more air to get in.

 

[2slo95fiveoh]

any excess fluid would go back into the MC anyways, you shouldn't need to open the bleeder screw and I really wouldnt, just a chance for more air to get in.

It would be difficult to get air in the brake line that way, cracking the bleeder screw open, twist/pushing the piston back in
would force fluid in the caliper out of the bleeder. Then when it's fully compressed close the bleeder screw and you're done.

As far as having the caliper fully disconnected from the car and not being able to twist the piston all the way in, tapping
on the caliper with a wrench sometimes can help free up and excess debris that may be locked in there. Other than that,
i would take advantage of any warranty that you might still have on the calipers you previously purchased.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

any excess fluid would go back into the MC anyways, you shouldn't need to open the bleeder screw and I really wouldnt, just a chance for more air to get in.

It would be difficult to get air in the brake line that way, cracking the bleeder screw open, twist/pushing the piston back in
would force fluid in the caliper out of the bleeder. Then when it's fully compressed close the bleeder screw and you're done.

As far as having the caliper fully disconnected from the car and not being able to twist the piston all the way in, tapping
on the caliper with a wrench sometimes can help free up and excess debris that may be locked in there. Other than that,
i would take advantage of any warranty that you might still have on the calipers you previously purchased.

I am definately ready to go get a new one. When I pull the other wheel off to put my new shocks on, I aint touching the brakes unless I have to.

 

[x182dan]

You shouldn't need to have to loosen the bleeder screw. I would say more times than not if you have to do that than you have caliper issues. I had to replace the rear calipers on my 95 because they wouldn't turn in at all even with the bleeders loosened.

 

[Dalamar]

BFH?


they are tight to get back on, they seem to spring out a little bit.
one of those garage nights eh Matt?

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

I was screwing with that bastard for about 2 hours trying to get it on. It is not even close to going on. I was working in the driveway, so I had to push the car back in for the night. Now the master cylinder is going to be empty, and I will have to bleed out the whole system.

I am going to wait until Saturday to finish it so I have plenty of time to do it. I need to let the aggrivation vent before I try again.

Next time it needs rear brakes, I am sending it out!

 

[CC'S95GT]

is it that the pads won't fit over the rotor, or you can't get the bolts to line up.

 

[GDTrumbo]

I was screwing with that bastard for about 2 hours trying to get it on. It is not even close to going on. I was working in the driveway, so I had to push the car back in for the night. Now the master cylinder is going to be empty, and I will have to bleed out the whole system.

I am going to wait until Saturday to finish it so I have plenty of time to do it. I need to let the aggrivation vent before I try again.

Next time it needs rear brakes, I am sending it out!

When spinning, or collapsing, the pistons back in, make sure the pegs on the back of the brake pad line up and fit into the slots of the piston like the caliper tool did. A mis-fit here can cause real headaches.

GT

 

[Matt94GT]

I hate the rear brakes too major PITA, I messed with mine for hours and then got my buddy at his shop to do it lol.

 

[CanaryGT]

Is someone gonna go get the Pandora's box looking thing....

 

[94 DropTop]

ive never had a problem with mine. done both my v6 and my gt.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

is it that the pads won't fit over the rotor, or you can't get the bolts to line up.

If I put the pads on the bracket I can't get the caliper over the pads, or if I put the pads in the caliper they won't fit over the rotor. Either way, it won't go together the way it sits. I wish it was a case of the bolts not lining up, I could deal with that.

 

[FordInjected]

ive used c-clamps to push pistons back into the cylinder before. some people said open the bleeder but that wouldnt do anything. your piston could be frozen and im pretty sure there are only a couple ways for that to happen. 1. for there to be debris in the lines from rusted lines or bending/tweaking them too much. OR your dust boot is ripped and contamination got in there. Try ripping a PINHOLE in the piston dust boot just big enough to get penetrating fluid in there and give it a small squirt. THIS WILL ONLY BE TEMPORARY seeing how penetrating oil is not a good lubricant for brake systems but DESERT RULES. start the car, push the brake pedal 1-2 times ( make sure to put something to block the piston from popping out of the cylinder with anything solid. Then use the c-clamp to push it back in. hope this helps

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

That would work fine for the front calipers, but the back are screw in. I compressed them with the c-clamp, turned the piston all the way in and out several times after spraying it with penetrating oil to losen up any debris that might have gotten behind the boot. Nothing has worked.

I stopped at the auto parts store and miked the new rotor. New rotor specs are .72 max .661 min. The new one I have is .78. that little bit don't mean crap.

I ordered a new caliper. It is $56.00.

Now I need to take apart my console and screw with the e-brake cable.

Ohh the joy!