Rebuilding my motor

Dr.Apex · Apr 8, 2010

I've been looking into different options for adding power to my poor lil 2V. Seems like the PI swap and bolt-ons are them main things to tackle to get any kind of respectable power out of these motors. My problem is that I'm afraid that my motor couldn't handle the extra ponies with it's current mileage (110k). It runs perfectly and doesn't burn or leak a drop of anything, but I'm still scared to beat on it due to the mileage.
So what I want to do is a complete rebuild. I have never rebuilt an engine before and need help on the right way to go about it. I won't be doing the rebuild but I will be ordering all the internals and parts.
My plan is to rebuild using forged internals so that I have the option to go F/I in the future. I don't know much about ordering pistons/cranks/rods ect. How do I know which to get or what sizes. I'm pretty sure my block is in perfect shape, but do I have to still have it checked out or anything? I'm not looking to bore the cylinders but should they still be honed, or is it ok to install new pistons and rings without that?
I do plan on doin a PI swap, cams, longtubes x pipe and catback, tb and plenum, ect...but my main focus is the forged rebuild so I will have a strong base to start with.
I'm a total newb to rebuilding a car motor so please bear with me if any of my questions or plans seem dumb. If you guys have any links or advice it would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not looking for oppinions on what you would do or anything that is off the subject. I just want to hear from those of you that have rebuilt motors and know the ins and outs of the process.
I'm hoping that I can start stockpiling parts until I get everything I need to have it done.
Thanks

96 VERT · Apr 8, 2010

what you should search for are threads about people rebuilding/building motors, check out svtperformance.com/forums and maybe this site

NXcoupe · Apr 8, 2010

I'm always here for ya! 100k is nothing on these engines if it was taken care of, seriously. If you want to go all forged internals that's a great idea, cobra crank, cobra H beams or aftermarket ones, and a good set of forged pistons and you are good to go. Bore it .020 and do it right.

Dr.Apex · Apr 8, 2010

NXcoupe said:
I'm always here for ya! 100k is nothing on these engines if it was taken care of, seriously. If you want to go all forged internals that's a great idea, cobra crank, cobra H beams or aftermarket ones, and a good set of forged pistons and you are good to go. Bore it .020 and do it right.

To be honest, I'm the third owner of the car. When I bought it, the car fax had service records a mile long and the car runs like a champ, so I can only assume it's been taken care of.
I do intend on a complete forged rebuild just for piece of mind and for the fact that I could go F/I, like I said before. I'm not looking to learn how to do the rebuild because I just don't have the tools or space to pull a motor. About as far as my abilities go would be a PI swap. So, the main focus is the process of ordering the rotating assembly, and getting the block bored .020 over (if it's nessesary)...I'm not sure why you said going .020 over would be doing it right.

Dr.Apex · Apr 8, 2010

96 VERT said:
what you should search for are threads about people rebuilding/building motors, check out svtperformance.com/forums and maybe this site

yeah I did, somewhat. I just got frustrated because I really couldn't find much.

Dr.Apex · Apr 9, 2010

I've been looking around for bottom end kits and came across a kit from Haney Motorsports that seems like it's exactly what I'm looking for. It's forged and can handle up to 800hp. I'm not looking to put down anywhere near that hp but like the fact that it could handle it.
Here is the copied ad:
Do you need to upgrade your Mustang's 4.6l modular bottom end? Do you have a force induction set-up making big power? HMS has your answer with our race proven 850+ rwhp forged 4.6L forged rotating assembly. We offer these rotating kits for both forced induction (supercharged / turbo) or naturally aspirated / nos set ups. Our 4.6L Modular rotating kits come complete with a forged 8 bolt crankshaft (stock or 3.75" stroked), 4340 forged H-beam connecting rods (includes ARP 2000 bolts), custom forged pistons, performance rings and bearings! We balance each assembly before shipping, making it a turn key rotating kit for you!

4.6L forged 2V 4V rotating kit comes complete with the following components-

HMS/KC Forged Steel 3.54" Stroke Crankshaft

HMS Forged 4340 H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts, bushed pin ends

HMS/Probe or Mahle custom forged pistons, tool steel pins, STD, .020 or .030 bore

Performance Steel-moly rings

Performance Rod and Main Bearings

Rotating assembly computer balanced
What do you guys think about it? Would this kit be a good starting point? I figure if I mate it with the Patriot stage III PI heads, a good set of cams, and intake. I figure this would be a desent start in preparation for all the bolt-ons and super charger. Any thoughts?

Lee12609 · Apr 9, 2010

honestly once said and done you can probably get a quality forged shortblock from a number of places and come out around the same price and KNOW its done right.

i'd look into it before spending all the dough on individual parts and machine work plus labor.

duff daddy · Apr 9, 2010

Im running a stock crank and Ill have well over 350 crank hp

Marvin97 · Apr 9, 2010

Duff Daddy said:
Im running a stock crank and Ill have well over 350 crank hp

What does that have to do with anything?

Dr.Apex · Apr 9, 2010

Duff Daddy said:
Im running a stock crank and Ill have well over 350 crank hp

Not trying to sound like a dick, but that's nothin to brag about. That equates to less than 300hp at the wheels, I'm pretty sure. I'm shootin for 450-500 at the wheels, when it's said and done.

Dr.Apex · Apr 9, 2010

Lee12609 said:
honestly once said and done you can probably get a quality forged shortblock from a number of places and come out around the same price and KNOW its done right.

i'd look into it before spending all the dough on individual parts and machine work plus labor.

I thought about that, but that's not where the big bucks will be comin from....(I don't think) The big bicks will be in the heads, whether I go ported stock PI heads, or Patriot stage III's, or twisted wedges. Correct me if I'm wrong though, like I said I'm a noob at this.
My plan, as far as labor goes, is to get people from a local club I'm a member of to help me out with assembly. Like I said, I can do the top end. I've just never done bottom end work. My guess (hope) is to keep the build under or around 5k before s/c.

My main concern is whether or not I can order the rotating assembly before I even yank the motor.

Lee12609 · Apr 10, 2010

oh i see what you mean, and its probably going to end up close to the same either way thats why i said i'd look into the assembled shortblock.

just from a quick search i see DSS streetfighter shortblocks go for under $2200 and they are rated to 550hp, didnt look at specs but thats probably forged. add to that a set of good heads, not patriots, and you'll still be under $5000, and have a professionally built bottom end.

just my suggestion, dont take it the wrong way just giving you an option that you might not of thought about.

duff daddy · Apr 10, 2010

97whitevert said:
Duff Daddy said:

Im running a stock crank and Ill have well over 350 crank hp

Click to expand...

What does that have to do with anything?

Does not need to spend the extra money and have the extra weight of the forged crank when the cast will hold up just fine...

Dr.Apex said:
Duff Daddy said:

Im running a stock crank and Ill have well over 350 crank hp

Click to expand...

Not trying to sound like a stick, but that's nothin to brag about. That equates to less than 300hp at the wheels, I'm pretty sure. I'm shootin for 450-500 at the wheels, when it's said and done.

This motors twin with svo heads differnt cams and svo intake made 385 at the wheels, im not sure what this is going to make so I kind of left the door open.

Dr.Apex · Apr 10, 2010

Lee12609 said:
oh i see what you mean, and its probably going to end up close to the same either way thats why i said i'd look into the assembled shortblock.

just from a quick search i see DSS streetfighter shortblocks go for under $2200 and they are rated to 550hp, didnt look at specs but thats probably forged. add to that a set of good heads, not patriots, and you'll still be under $5000, and have a professionally built bottom end.

just my suggestion, dont take it the wrong way just giving you an option that you might not of thought about.

No doubt. I'm deffinatley lookin into the defferent avenues I can take with the build. Obviously, I can't afford to do all this stuff in one shot. I just can't afford to drop the coin in one shot. My plan is to do in three stages. First stage,bored block and forged rotating assembly. Second, cams heads and intake. Third, s/c with supporting mods. My rough guess is that the motor is gonna be a 3 year project.