MustangChris
Mythic Level
nice, brotha!!!
ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*
- Thread starter ReplicaR
- Start date
Idle, that's fairly smooth for how aggressive the camshaft is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hagzhql1X0o
and some picture of the car upon it's return.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hagzhql1X0o
and some picture of the car upon it's return.
Wichers123
Well-Known Member
Idle it lower and it will chop up a bit. Sounds good though.
Nice build Dmitry! Question on the wheels: I have the PRF1's in 9" all the way around, currently running a 255 tire. I was thinking of going to 275's when I came across your thread and saw that you are using the 10" RPF1's front and back. I'm sure the fit in the back is no biggie, but how about the front? I read that you had your fenders pulled - was that it? Clearance to the coilovers wasn't an issue? Did you have to limit your steering rack or can the wheels turn lock-to-lock?
Congratulations! I'm glad you got that sucker together again, Dmitry.
duff daddy
Legend
Car is looking good D....
MustangChris
Mythic Level
damn. that idle is DEEP! nicely done!!
twovalveterror
Active Member
I have 10" wheels at all four corners. a lot will come down to b/s, but I run a 245 up front right now, and with a 3/8 spacer I could turn lock to lock, but once I lowered it, I begin to contact the a-arm towards the end of the range. it will tuck nicely under the fender still. I'm planning to get a bigger tire up front, and add a bigger spacer to try and push the limits of what the front fender can contain.
By b/s I assume you mean bump-steer? So the spacer was necessary for you? And you are on stock K-member/stock A-arms, or aftermarket?
Fender pulling was simply done by rolling the lip and pushing on it, until the fender metal actually stretches past it's original shape. The clearance to coilovers is fantastic, there is at least an inch there, which is amazing. I didn't bother with steering rack limiters, since I rarely turn lock to lock on this car, it's not my daily driver anymore.
Thanks for the info. Did you roll the lip on the front fender or just the rear? If I remember correctly, the front fender lip is where the inner wheel well tub connects, no? My rears are already rolled (used the Mustang for practice before rolling my other car
).I guess I have a slight dilemma - debating on 9.5" or 10" all the way around on the RPF1s, using a 275 tire. Dmitry, if you don't mind me asking, for what reason did you choose the 10"? Just get the most wheel under the car?
Edit: Oh, anyone interested in buying a set of used, good condition faded orange 17x9 RPF1's for cheap?
I ended up selecting 17x10 because they cleared Brembo calipers. This was the biggest factor in my selection. I did not want to run spacers, or anything else like that. I've also talked to a friend of mine who runs in time attack, and he mentioned that I should be running the at least a 10 inch wheel with a 275 NT01, to get better sidewall action out of it, and put more tire on the ground. Here is a write up I did on a different website.
Now, onto the difference between the wheels themselves. Obvious difference is the weight. Original Japanese made Cobra R is tipping the scale at 22 lbs, while RPF1 being one inch wider is actually 5 lbs lighter at 17 lbs.
The way the tire sits on the wheel is different as well. Talking to a few of my friends who do time attack, and most tire experts, they are all convinced that your contact patch has be just a little bit smaller than the width of the actual wheel to get the most out of the tire, and make it more responsive under fast corners. You can really see that a 9 inch wheel is not an optimal choice for a 275 R comp from pictures below.
You can see in the picture that the sidewall on the 9 inch wheel is bulging quite a bit, while on a 10 inch wheel same tire sits perfectly flat. Note another thing from the picture below, how the contact patch looks like. The closer wheel is the 9 inch one. You can just tell by the contour of the surface, that it's bowing out, curves around the edges. The contact patch on the 10 inch wheel by contrast is a lot flatter, and might actually be able to put more tire on the ground. I know that some will say, oh but the tire is not under load. That is true that the tire will flatten out under the load and create the necessary contact patch, but it will not bring down the edges which are still rolling over due to sidewall being deflected.
Now, onto the difference between the wheels themselves. Obvious difference is the weight. Original Japanese made Cobra R is tipping the scale at 22 lbs, while RPF1 being one inch wider is actually 5 lbs lighter at 17 lbs.
The way the tire sits on the wheel is different as well. Talking to a few of my friends who do time attack, and most tire experts, they are all convinced that your contact patch has be just a little bit smaller than the width of the actual wheel to get the most out of the tire, and make it more responsive under fast corners. You can really see that a 9 inch wheel is not an optimal choice for a 275 R comp from pictures below.
You can see in the picture that the sidewall on the 9 inch wheel is bulging quite a bit, while on a 10 inch wheel same tire sits perfectly flat. Note another thing from the picture below, how the contact patch looks like. The closer wheel is the 9 inch one. You can just tell by the contour of the surface, that it's bowing out, curves around the edges. The contact patch on the 10 inch wheel by contrast is a lot flatter, and might actually be able to put more tire on the ground. I know that some will say, oh but the tire is not under load. That is true that the tire will flatten out under the load and create the necessary contact patch, but it will not bring down the edges which are still rolling over due to sidewall being deflected.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
win win win situation on the swap, eh?
Pretty much, the wheel combination is better in every single way, minus body work required to clear it, and that they are as strong as the Cobra R wheels. I'm driving around on Cobra R's on the street, RPF1s are track only.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
dont worry. mini-tubbing is for pimps.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
THESE?
my only other suggestion is export flares.
(also know from the boss shinoda edition)
my only other suggestion is export flares.
(also know from the boss shinoda edition)
Yeah, those are the ones off Rocco's AIX mustang. I really wish that Maier racing would have built an actual flared fender like they did for fox body mustangs. My problem with export flares is that they don't really give you more tire clearance, they just cover it, so it does not stick out. What I'm looking for is for something to give me clearance when the suspension is compressed, so I don't touch the fender with the tire. I think I'll actually be ok with the current setup, but I'll find out soon enough.
These?
