Sad Sight

Corndiddly

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Well I knew my mustang had some rust. So i decided to pull all the tires off and the inner fender walls out to see how bad and this is what I found.
This is the passenger side front
908755_10152684744115346_1782122416_n.jpg
907498_10152716329710346_1593302107_n.jpg

Passenger side rear
909381_10152716324760346_1350465185_n.jpg

Passenger side trunk
913056_10152716324060346_1225288310_n.jpg

Drivers side trunk
907589_10152716321175346_1972920355_n.jpg

Drivers side rear
908881_10152716320400346_929932649_n.jpg

Drivers side front
911951_10152716330355346_330849934_n.jpg




Well Wisconsin took its toll on this mustang.
 

TanTop94

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Oh wow that is some cancer man, try to get some of that off and throw protectant on it, you're bound to have to get it replaced.
 
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Corndiddly

Corndiddly

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Im debating if I should get it fixed at a shop or if Im better off finding a roller and swapping all the goodies over.
 

Ninety8stang

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I would take a wire wheel to it if it isn't completely flaky and then seal it up for sure.
 

chris91

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What do the strut towers look like inside the engine bay? Willing to bet they are done for too. Unless you can weld or have a friend who can it'll cost more than the shell is worth to fix. Rust convertor wont help the towers. They rust from the inside out. Once you see it its too late. They aren't safe to drive like that either.
 
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Corndiddly

Corndiddly

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I can see it rusting through by the headers. I think this car might not see the road again. I'm going to start looking for a roller car, but finding a rust free shell in Wisconsin is going to be hard to find.
 

1997gtRioRed

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shouldnt be too bad, just gotta look hard haha. i picked mine up in northern illinois for 2k never seen a winter. granted its been totalled many times, stolen, etc, no rust :)
 

chris91

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Try to push something through the rust on the engine bay side. Bet it goes through. If so then youd need someone to weld in patch panels and thats not an easy task.
 

Musturd

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Yea those look rotten **** that sucks dude. I've seen this lots on fox's not to much on sn95's
 

9838stang

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i know some one who has a 97 cobra shell with a couple of dings on it. might be cheaper to get it repainted that to fix the body on your car. he lives in mankato MN
 
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Corndiddly

Corndiddly

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Try to push something through the rust on the engine bay side. Bet it goes through. If so then youd need someone to weld in patch panels and thats not an easy task.
I plan on pulling the engine at the end of fall anyways, which would make it easier I guess. You got any tips or right ups on putting a patch panel in?

i know some one who has a 97 cobra shell with a couple of dings on it. might be cheaper to get it repainted that to fix the body on your car. he lives in mankato MN
Could you PM me some details on the car please.
 

chris91

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Yeah you definitely have to pull the engine to do that kinda work. You have to make sure to cut out all the bad shit. A lot of people will coat the inside of the frame rail with POR15 before boxing it back in. Then its simply adding a new patch back in. Not sure about the outer part of the towers though. Might want to search around on Corral for a write up. If you can weld you should be able to fix it fairly cheap. Or you might want to hit up your local speed shops and find out if they can point you in the right direction. Good luck with it though man!
 

KillNThrill24

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Yeah I'm gonna agree with Chris for sure if your towers are already rusting like you said then you'd better look into getting that fixed before trying to drive it again.

A roller wouldn't be a bad idea at all, theres usally quite a few rollers on the CL, especially about this time of year. And being a roller you can tell if theres any rust on it without too much, if any, effort. That would be the route I would personally take man
 
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Corndiddly

Corndiddly

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Luckly I have a buddy who works in the local body shop, so I'm sure he could help me out. The best part is it would give me a excuse to buy a welder I always needed
 
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Corndiddly

Corndiddly

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Well I decided to see what I could do by my self. So I grabbed a beer or 2 and started getting to it.
I started with this
908755_10152684744115346_1782122416_n.jpg

After removing the strut and taking the k-member bolts out, which came out like this
909355_10152733550040346_1730248320_n.jpg

I cut the top of the plate off, which was 2 little pieces left
907488_10152733550185346_1485918336_n.jpg

I started picking away at the rust with a pick and a pry bar. Now this is where i started to get a tear in my eye
913218_10152733629565346_1237736009_n.jpg

913112_10152733592550346_382149638_n.jpg

After some cutting some of the rust away and a couple beer breaks, this came out. I dont have all of it cut away, but its a good start.
907179_10152733715095346_1324228716_n.jpg





Now this is the first time doing any kind of body work, so any tips will help. Im trying to do it without removing the engine, just so it will last till next winter when I can pull the engine. I plan on putting some kind of flat stock on the inside of the "square part of the frame" for support and replacing the rest how it was. I know its not going to turn out perfect, but I am trying my best.
 

chrisv_10

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Wow.you need to really reinforce that part. It supports the weight of the motor and the suspension. I would weld a piece of square tubing there. Or go to the junk yard and cut out that section you need from another Stang and weld it on.

Sent on the toilet from my SGH-T679
 

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