Scott I got my Viper!

[KillNThrill24]

Not gonna lie man.... I'm not the least bit intimidated haha. My reaction (had I taped it) would have been pretty sad for you because my face didn't change a bit lol. I mean reading the instructions might take me 2 or 3 times to grasp what the hell there talking about but I'll figure it all out I hope. If I have any questions I'll post it in this thread.


Okay first question lol... What is the Ground When Armed Output? It says to connect to a starter interrupt relay or other accessory that requires a GWA. Without a quick Google search, not gonna lie, not 100% what that is

 

[ttocs]

ah yes the orange wire. Its a really really technical thang but let me see if I can break it down fer ya...

Armed when active = a wire that when you activate/arm the alarm, that wire will then have a ground on it. Yup its that difficult... What it is used for 1rst/most important is the starter kill relay which should be included and will have a thick red wire, a thick green wire, and a smaller orange wire. Hook up the orange/orange and then the red wire to the key-side of the starter wire(Cut the starter wire and then when you turn the key to crank the key side will show +12v), the green side to the starter side, and you have now done your starter kill. When the alarm activates and there is a ground on the orange wire if someone were to get inside anyway with a key and try to start the car, that relay will then open and prevent the starter from cranking. This wire is also used for other alarm accesories to turn them on when the alarm is activated. Alarm accesories can include window modules, glass break sensors, ect...

I feel like yoda when luke was in the swamp and told him that he wasn't afraid and he just glared back and said "You will be.....YOU will be...."

if your studying up on what you need to know by far the most difficult part will be the door locks. Look up 5-wire reversing polarity door lock circuits and you will see. It will not only require you to find the correct wires from the motor wires but also need to identify the master/slave switch and wire into it all correctly or the door lock circuit blows. Here this should help explain everything!(internet sarcasm)

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

 

[KillNThrill24]

O boy haha.... Alright Yoda now my head is getting a tad twisted. Damn door locks. I think I need another beer...

But in all seriousness if I just find a diagram with all of the relays in my Jeep... Would that not make this job 1000x easier? I mean reading the destructions and a lot of these wires are being attached to relays. Problem is I don't know where any relays are off hand. But if I can find a wire diagram for the ZJ I would HAVE to assume the job wouldn't be as hard.. No?

Here's that relay I think your referring to?

And to all you poor bastards who think "Scott I got my Viper" means I got an actual Viper... I apologize. I got nothing so fancy haha

 

[ttocs]

that is the advantage of the door lock circuit, it uses no relays! All the work is done in the switches, only a couple of extra runs of wire and that was when copper was cheap soo...... Don't let the little pics confuse you when you break it down into sections they are not THAT bad, although they honestly are the worst of the door lock circuits.

First you will need to find the lock/unock wires and test them as you will any other wire before you connect to it. The lock wire will have 12v on it when you push the button to lock it and the unlock wire will have 12v on it when it is pushed. When you think you have both wires located correctly, simply cut one.... Doesn't matter which is which(lock/unlock) but at that point you will kill the "communication"(for lack of a better term really the slave feeds the master right?) between the two switches. Cut the wire at a place that will be easy to make connections too as if it is the right wire you will connect your relays there if it isn't you will need to connect the wire you just cut and then locate the correct wires. BUT - if you have cut one of the correct lock/unlock wires at that point the master switch will loose all function and neither lock/unlock. Now the slave switch will still have half of its function so if you cut the lock wire, it will still unlock for example. So if that is the case(again one switch works on function(slave), and the other switch has no function(master) you have found and cut the right wire. Normally you can tell that one side of the wire hrns goes to the master side and the other to the slave so at that point is just a matter of connecting the relays into the circuit correctly. Not sure what viper includes or where you got it from if ya want though I could pre-wire the relays for you and send them to you already fused/labeled to make it easier for ya. Unfortunatly relays can get a little expensive at autoparts stores though. I might be able to pull some strings at one shop I have a guy at to get a couple at discount otherwise they like to jack you for $15 each for a 2-3$ part.

I don't think I have told you the first rule of installing alarms which I really need to mention. when ya park the car, roll down your window. Its really easy to lock yourself out of your car if the window is up.

huh they made some changes to the starter kill relay wiring.

 

[KillNThrill24]

I got the 3105V from Sonicelectronix.com. I had done much business with them in the past when I was big into car audio. So I knew they were a legit company and I knew they sold alarms. I opted for the Viper simply because they were the only company I knew. And I knew they were a good company. So I went ahead and picked up the cheapest Viper with the most basic of functions. All I needed was the alarm, I didn't realize it came with a lock/unlock function, but now that I think about it, how else would the alarm work lol... But I saw that as a bonus since my Jeep came with ONE key and no remote. And also having a different driver door (Jeep was originally black, PO picked up a red door before painting it green, not sure why) meant I had to go through the passenger door to open it. Which meant if I was at work I would leave the driver door only unlocked, because our parking lot has a camera, plus the way our place is setup theres always someone looking at the parking lot. You'd have to have some serious stones to try to steal from one of our cars, especially my Jeep, which stands out more than anything else lol.. Sometimes when I'd get home I'd forget to lock it because it's just such a pain in the ass to unlock it from the passenger side, and the passenger door cylinder is so hard to turn it bends the key..

So the alarm served 2 functions for me. 1: protect it from the little assholes roaming my neighborhood... And 2: unlock the doors via remote. I didn't exactly realize it was so involved (this was before you warned me) but after researching a little bit I found out just how much shit I was in for, then when you being the master installer you are warned me, I knew I was in for some fun. But nonetheless I still think I can do it.

I happened to have found this upon a quick Google search...

It's the fuse block located IN the glovebox. Which I had no idea even existed... Apparently there are, as shown, 2 relays for the door lock system on it. One for the unlock function, one for the lock function. Which means it shouldn't be terribly hard to tap into no? ALSO apparently there is a factory alarm which has obviously been deactivated (I read that they like to go off on there own from the factory a lot), is that anything I will have an issue with? OR since there was a factory alarm installed.. Would that make this job a little easier? Like for instance since the factory installed one, shouldn't everything (relay wise) I need be installed in the vehicle somewhere? If so that would be soo awesome. Tho I doubt it's that easy. Nothing is ever that easy... Ever.

I'm going through my little install guide Viper sent me right now just reading which wire does what and attaches where. Most of it doesn't seem difficult. But I've caught another snag.. The channel 2 output (red/white) says connect to the vehicle negative trunk release relay or other low current device... Again what the hell lol? I'm not sure where to go with that one since I don't have a trunk release button or anything. Maybe I should Google if I have a relay for that..

Ahh yes and I learned the whole window trick a loooooong time ago. I mainly only have it open if I have the vehicle running or if I have the keys in it but crawling in and out would warrant leaving it open to me. Even in dead of winter if I go outside to start my car I always crack the window enough to get my arm inside just incase. I have that fear that the one time I don't open the window I'm getting locked out lol

 

[ttocs]

if there is relays in there for the door locks it will be a much easier process. All it takes then is to find the right wires and then connect. No master/slave crap and its been a while since I did one but swore they liked the 5-wire system.