Since I'm doing ball joints, might as well fix a bit otherwise...

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes' started by poisonbl, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. poisonbl

    poisonbl Member

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    So for a little while now, my front end's been squeaking something terrible under any motion at all (assuming ball joints), my shocks have been pretty well shot since I got the car, and since I'm taking apart the front for that much, I've decided it's a good time to do springs, shocks, bushings, ball joints, and some good cleaning while I'm under there... as well as another to-do list I've been sitting on. It's my DD, so I want to have as much ready to install as I can get away with, though I can walk to the office for a week or so if needed. I did it plenty when I had the top end torn apart last winter and it was too cold to put it all back together ('cause I'm a pansy, not 'cause it would've been a problem for the car, it was in a nice cozy-enough garage all winter while I hiked to/from work on foot :(). As it stands, my LMR cart's sitting with

    Suspension side:
    Prothane bushing kit w/ trans mount (pt-62006bl) (because 20 y/o rubber doesn't hold up well, replacing anything and everything I can reach under there)
    2x Ball joints (lrs-3049bb)
    Koni yellow shock and strut kit, adjustable (kon-9404ad) (mostly 'cause they're on sale for only slightly more than the AGX's)
    Ford Racing lowering springs (Bs, but contemplating the 1.2in drop of the Gs) (M5300B) (because more of a drop than these and I get to spend a LOT more on other pieces and parts, as well as the nightmare of that as a DD in a town that thinks hot-patch actually does any good rather than really fixing the issues with the roads)

    And for my drivetrain (addressing a shake it's had a while, some 'while I have it apart' pieces + a somewhat needed clutch):
    2x U-joints (lrs-j5213)
    tailshaft bushing (lrs-7034a)
    tailshaft seal, T-5/AOD (lrs-7052A)
    royal purple synchromax (rp-scm-k) (draining the trans, since I have no idea the abuse it took before me, and I haven't yet)
    driveshaft bolt kit (hdw-4602) (because if I don't have them, the originals will all shear off)
    Ram HDX clutch master kit (lrs-7560b-k)

    Anything I should be adding/avoiding, given the above? With the FR springs I should be able to escape jumping to CC plates for now, and shouldn't need to be too concerned about bumpsteer, and shouldn't have too drastic of a shift in geometry that it eats my tires (should be better than the mess I have right now anyhow). With the adjustable dampers, I should be able to avoid the mess of overly mismatched spring rate vs dampers. The Gs are probably too much drop to get away with that, so I might have to stick to Bs.

    As for the drivetrain side (only included here 'cause it's all in my cart already), there's a noticeable 'thunk' and movement of the shifter when I get on/off the throttle in gear, and a severe (i.e. terrifying :nightmare: ) vibration at 100mph that's not there at 90mph, so u-joints at the least (seriously contemplating a whole driveshaft just because I can, and because it's almost no effort to replace compared to actually doing u-joints on a 20 y/o steel driveshaft). Since I'm going to have it up for that, I'm finally going to address the "sounds like a stuck engine valve chirp" clutch (either pilot or release bearing, and probably clutch cable slack making it worse) and, to avoid having to find out I need a flywheel, etc, at the point at which I can't just drive to the store to get one, I'll get and replace everything in one go there. While the trans is dropped, a bit of fluid maintenance, a just-in-case tailshaft seal and bushing, and the transmission mount, since the whole thing seems to feel a bit too free to move about right now.

    ...

    So, the real questions are...
    1) Can I get away with FR's "G" springs (about 1.2in front and back) without CC plates/bumpsteer adjustment?
    2) Is there anything other than bushing, shocks, and ball joints I should expect to need to replace while I have it apart? Inner/outer tie-rod ends?
    3) While they're overkill on a nearly-stock/daily street setup, are the koni yellows still reasonable given they're adjustable? Will they be fine with *not* being lowered much?
    4) Is there anything I should expect to see snap in two when I disassemble things (note, I plan on having a spring compressor handy, 'cause I rather like living), any magical tools (i.e. a ball joint press) I should be preparing for?

    Oh, and... anyone that's experienced in ball joint therapy feel like dropping by and being terribly underpaid for helping? :angel:
     
  2. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    CC plates are always recommended, but some say after a 1.5" drop YOU NEED CC plates. People have claimed to get away with no plates, no BSK with springs such as H&R SS springs that give a 1.75" drop. What i would suggest is getting the camber bolts install the springs and if you need the extra adjustment pop those suckers in. But ive heard claims that they get loose after some time and you'll need to get them adjusted again. LMR has a realllly good article explaining the suspension as well as bumpsteer which occurs when the LCA and tie rod are not parallel to each other. And that happens when you lower the cars because it changes the angle relative to the body/frame. another thing you should get are offset steering rack bushings. they help geometry as well. dont forget the sway bar bushings. and also the rear suspension is just as important as the front, replace quad shocks, control arm bushings, axle housing bushes, sway bar etc etc if needed because that can cause you it to handle like crap too. Depending if you need to remove the calipers youll need a tool for that, they rent them out at pep boys etc. and youll need a presser most likely for the ball joints, and vice grips to remove the shocks/struts. and an impact gun will help you out alot. and koni yellows are ideal so you can adjust the dampering but the only time you'll really see the benefit is if you are really picky on ride quality and/or racing. I think koni oranges will be fine. it will be a somewhat harsh ride but not enough to break your neck.

    also when its time to do the clutch i would recommend investing in an aftermarket clutch quadrant and after market adjustable clutch cable. also recommend changing the TOB, pilot bearing and bearing retainer. and make sure you grease the TOB really good or it will squeal! and maybe service the diff as well.drain and refill.


    and when replacing the front struts the spindle will move forward. Although it doesnt really do much it can affect your toe. An alignment is highly recommened especially when replacing the springs.


    i cant find that article but i know if you google it youll find it
     
  3. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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