SN95 IRS SWAP Thread

SVTstang96 · Apr 27, 2014

hondarocks61 said:
Lol, for my brake lines I just bought a tee and fittings at Advanced auto parts and got the copper nickel brake line for everything while I was there. They should carry everything you need, I believe its 3/16" line.

Then I got the braided stainless brake line kit from MM, Which is probably the best idea because it includes brackets you MAY NOT HAVE with the IRS you are swapping in.

- 3/16 brake line

- 3/16 three way tee

- 3/16 male flare nuts (x5)

- MM irs braided line kit (just get the front/rear kit if you don't already have braided front lines, its worth it.)

I think that's all that's really needed guys.

Actually stock line are M10x1.5, yes the 3/16 will work but its not perfect and may leak under high pressure.

hondarocks61 · Apr 27, 2014

SVTstang96 said:
Actually stock line are M10x1.5, yes the 3/16 will work but its not perfect and may leak under high pressure.

I used all 3/16 fittings so I would assume its fine, I bled and checked for leaks the other day (under pressure) and didn't have any. Ford using metric stuff in random places?

Not surprising.

SVTstang96 · Apr 28, 2014

hondarocks61 said:
I used all 3/16 fittings so I would assume its fine, I bled and checked for leaks the other day (under pressure) and didn't have any. Ford using metric stuff in random places?

Not surprising.

I don't understand what your saying about random metric stuff.... the whole car is metric. Since the late 80's early 90's most american made cars have used metric fasteners.

Handz · Apr 28, 2014

This is where the brake fittings get complicated.

Yes, the fittings are metric. Thats the hardest part of the swap. finding metric lines are difficult and the brake lines are not done with the standard double flare. The ford brake lines use a unique flare that can only be created by very few machines. If you use the standard size fitting, it will leak.

I found my metric pre-flared brake lines and T-fitting from a VW sandrail shop. VWs in the 60's use the same flares and fittings as 94-04 mustangs.This is why i couldnt use the fittings from the average part store because i knew it would leak.

SVTstang96 · Apr 28, 2014

Handz said:
This is where the brake fittings get complicated.

Yes, the fittings are metric. Thats the hardest part of the swap. finding metric lines are difficult and the brake lines are not done with the standard double flare. The ford brake lines use a unique flare that can only be created by very few machines. If you use the standard size fitting, it will leak.

I found my metric pre-flared brake lines and T-fitting from a VW sandrail shop. VWs in the 60's use the same flares and fittings as 94-04 mustangs.This is why i couldnt use the fittings from the average part store because i knew it would leak.

For reference they use what is called a bubble flare, you can make them using a metric double flare kit but its extremely hard and very rarely will come out right. Like Handz said your just much better buying the brake lines....

DropTopPony · Apr 28, 2014

As popular as this swap is someone with the right tools could prefab some break line kits and make a few $$$ on the side. The basic bends could be done by most DIY'ers but I bet a few are scared away because they aren't sure about the connections and what splitter to use etc and don't want to buy a nice brake line tool kit.

twovalveterror · Apr 28, 2014

I used my stock lines, the car has lowering springs on it, no rubbing. If I go any lower I'm sure there would be problems. Tried using my stock e-brake as well but it eventually snapped. Can't say if it was from being stretched or if it was just it's time to go.

I'll probably do aftermarket lines once I swap my bushings for stiffer units. Handz seems to very particular, which isn't bad in and of itself, but many people have run the standard sized lines just fine. Where you make the conversion from metric to standard and how well you do it will more than likely play a big part in it leaking or not.

Win, as I'm sure you already know, focusing on the axles is looking at the wrong part of the equation. termi axles snap too. depending on what kind of driving you do the smaller axles can be fine. I've abused my 01 axles for a couple years with no problems. bushing kits, stiffer springs, and to an extent tires can all do wonders to keep axles happy.

Handz · Apr 28, 2014

For the record, you need to use the 94-98 e-brake cables with this swap.

I tried to install the 03/04 cobra ebrake cables, but they were 2 short. The stock 94-98 cables fit, you just gotta have them routed correctly.

Win · Apr 28, 2014

twovalveterror;1280617 Win said:
if you wanted me to focus on axles I could have gone into more depth but I didn't.

What at I said wasn't focusing on them it was simply adding to the misnomer you put out there to correct any confusion.

SVTstang96 · Apr 28, 2014

Handz said:
For the record, you need to use the 94-98 e-brake cables with this swap.

I tried to install the 03/04 cobra ebrake cables, but they were 2 short. The stock 94-98 cables fit, you just gotta have them routed correctly.

How did the 03/04 ones not work? I have 03/04 on mine now and they work perfectly. If you route them the same way as factory there should be no problem. If you don't mind can you post a picture of how you routed them? Mine are mounted to the caliper, to the front of the spring perch where they were mounted from factory, then to the body, through the body, and up to the final mount where the intermediate cable coming from the parking brake is.

Handz · Apr 28, 2014

SVTstang96 said:
How did the 03/04 ones not work? I have 03/04 on mine now and they work perfectly. If you route them the same way as factory there should be no problem. If you don't mind can you post a picture of how you routed them? Mine are mounted to the caliper, to the front of the spring perch where they were mounted from factory, then to the body, through the body, and up to the final mount where the intermediate cable coming from the parking brake is.

The 03/04 cobra cables were just too short. I had originally installed the 03/04 cobra cables thinking they would work.... when i got everything hooked up they would not reach to the caliper. The cables were routed exactly the same as stock. I took the 03/04 cobra ebrake cables off to notice they were shorter than my 1998 cables. Reason being is because the slitter cable which connects to the ebrake handle is shorter on 03/04 cobras.

I have my 94-98 cables routed as stock and they connect to the IRS ebrake cable holder rings on the IRS LCAs. They connect perfectly.

twovalveterror · Apr 28, 2014

Win said:
if you wanted me to focus on axles I could have gone into more depth but I didn't.

What at I said wasn't focusing on them it was simply adding to the misnomer you put out there to correct any confusion.

my response to you was my first comment in the thread.

if you'd like to go into more depth about axles, this would be the place to do it.

white95 · Apr 28, 2014

[MENTION=13094]93blucoupe[/MENTION] has also performed this swap

rz5.0 · Apr 29, 2014

Man. I had 0 issues. . I used the 03 drive shaft that came out the cobra. Rigid double flair tool. Set the engine back an inch. Hardest part was drilling a straight hole to the trunk. I swaped the bushing to the subframe for the MM one so I could use the stock size bolts instead of the 14mm ones. . You guys make it sound so complicated. . Also used the stock 95 e brake cables. . Precision u joint.

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

Handz · Apr 29, 2014

rz5.0 said:
Man. I had 0 issues. . I used the 03 drive shaft that came out the cobra. Rigid double flair tool. Set the engine back an inch. Hardest part was drilling a straight hole to the trunk. I swaped the bushing to the subframe for the MM one so I could use the stock size bolts instead of the 14mm ones. . You guys make it sound so complicated. . Also used the stock 95 e brake cables. . Precision u joint.

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

Says its easy, yet had to move the engine back 1 inch. Yeah, real easy.

Handz · Apr 29, 2014

I didnt bother drilling holes in my trunk. Instead I actually had the upper bracket welded to the framerail. Came out really clean and was much easier.

rz5.0 · Apr 29, 2014

Ha. Moving the engine back was no trouble. The k member was slotted for it.. that was my choice.. I could of used the stock shaft. Cobra one is shorter. .

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

Handz · Apr 29, 2014

rz5.0 said:
Ha. Moving the engine back was no trouble. The k member was slotted for it.. that was my choice.. I could of used the stock shaft. Cobra one is shorter. .

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

yeah, there is alot involved with moving an engine back 1 inch.

This swap was not technically "Easy". Took me about a week to get everything just right and have it all set up including getting a 4 wheel alignment and fabbing brake lines.

white95 · Apr 29, 2014

Thanks for your helpful input [MENTION=18340]Handz[/MENTION]

rz5.0 · Apr 29, 2014

Handz said:
yeah, there is alot involved with moving an engine back 1 inch.

This swap was not technically "Easy". Took me about a week to get everything just right and have it all set up including getting a 4 wheel alignment and fabbing brake lines.

Like what? . K member has slot for it.. had to slot my trans crossmember some. . Exhaust needs a lil work. Not like you cut the fire wall or anything. . The terminator drive shaft was already shorter. .

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk