Spark plugs for a 96 cobra

Discussion in '96-04 - 4V Specific' started by whitesnake96, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    Hey guys got a question. Im wanting to replace the stock motorcraft platinums for some copper ones. The guy at autozone said no way that they are too cold of a plug. But ive seen alot of guys running copper... whats the diffrence?
     
  2. 1997GT4.6

    1997GT4.6 Well-Known Member

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    I ran the copper, autolite 764 or whatever, and the car ran poorly. Idle was a bit more rough and had to replace them to often. Went back to motorcraft platinum and have never looked back. 97 Cobra here.
     
  3. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    I remember a friend switching to copper in his cobra but he was spraying nitrous heavily. Worked out real good for him. And to be honest,...when it comes to parts house employees information. ..be leery. Good deal to ask here too. Last argument I had with an AZ employee was about '94 being the last year of the 5.0l.
     
  4. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    I thought is was 95???? Well i decided to go with stock motorcraft replacements. Gotta find this miss between 3 4k rpm.... i bought a motorcraft fuel filter too. Just waiting on the car to cool down
     
  5. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    The last year is '95, but since that guy had a convertible '94, '94 was the last year for 5.0l cause his car is so rare,...so he claims.
    Good idea on motorcraft replacement. Good idea with fuel filter too. How good are the plug wires? I dont suggest AZ replacements.
     
  6. MustangChris

    MustangChris Legend Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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    clean your MAF, check your spark plug wires and coils for cracking, run a can of BG44K through the fuel and let us know if that mis clears up....
     
  7. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Good info
     
  8. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    Cleaned maf and reoiled kandn airfilter. Let dry overnight and reinstalled. Just put 8 new motorcraft platinum plugs in and still missing. Next is the motorcraft fuel filter. This loss of power only occurs under heavy load in the upper rpm range. Otherwise she runs like a champ
     
  9. MustangChris

    MustangChris Legend Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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    inspect your wires and your coil packs while your under there.... for 8 bolts and 5 minutes of inspection time, why not?

    good call on the fuel filter -- tahts another 10 minute fix.
     
  10. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    It was the fuel filter. Runs like a new car now! Damn didnt know how much power i was losing....
     
  11. MustangChris

    MustangChris Legend Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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    nice... nice.

    I used to change my fuel filter twice a year... they're like $10.00 from autozone and take 10 minutes to do.... why not?

    now i have an expensive AN filter. ... FML.
     
  12. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    By the way the 96 has tge pull clips on the lines. No tool needed to remove the lines. I recommend using goggles when changing the fuel filter. Gas goes everywhere. And also remove the metal bracket holding it onto the chassis.
     
  13. MustangChris

    MustangChris Legend Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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    yes. this is all accurate.... this is quality info righ heeerr.
     
  14. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    First time I changed a fuel filter was with my bronco2 when I was 17. I parked it on an incline thinking it be alright. Nope... with no eye protection on especially, I seperated the lines from the filter and gas started tracking down the frame and was going to drip all over me so like a kid I scrabbled to get out from underneath to stay dry. As my frace passed directly under the frame...gas dripped all over my face, eyes, nose.....not cool. Good info here
     
  15. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    One other thing I forgot to mention. Please please please use anti seize on the plugs and electrical contact grease on the boots when changing your plugs. When I pulled out the old plugs they squeeked like no ones business. For the life of me whoever decided not to use antiseize before me ought to be shot. Spend a dollar on The stuff to save your threads for the future. Sheesh....
     
  16. tcb-1

    tcb-1 New Member

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    This is why I joined up on this forum. Great info, gotta change out my filter this weekend in my '96 too.
     
  17. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Gunked up imrcs...
     
  18. whitesnake96

    whitesnake96 New Member

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    I used seafoam but only let it set for about 10minutes. Imrcs still feel like they are sticking. Ugh. Sometimes it feels like they close at 5k. Is that possible?
     
  19. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    Also use a torque wrench when doing the plug install. Ppl laugh when I tell them this but these are aluminum heads and even 1/8 turn past hand tight is overtorqued. 12-15 ft lbs and no more, I do 12 with anti-seize and call it good. Copper plugs are just fine and mod motors like 1 range cooler. My 2V gets Autolite 103s and its just fine and a copper plug will run the best and is easier to read. Only negative is they only last 30-40k miles but plugs on a modular are very easy to change. Recommend new wires (for 96-98) every time new plugs are done. New black wire OEM Motorcrafts are $50 on Rockauto.
     
  20. uncltrvlnmatt

    uncltrvlnmatt Legend

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    I had motorcraft platinum in my 97 Cobra, when I did the plug change I installed copper plugs. A week later i took them out and threw them in the garbage. The car fell flat on its face, lost tons of power. I installed a set of NGK platinum plugs and all was good with the world. As far as never-seize goes, use the copper not aluminum never-seize. It costs more but has a higher heat rating.