Stealth Mare: from the begining

ReplicaR

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That sounds like a bunch. When you change motor mounts, I would highly recommend going polyurethane mounts. They are much more durable than part store oem style replacements, and the difference in NVH is almost nonexistent. Personally, I'm running Energy Suspension brand, they've been nothing but great for the past 5 years.

Brakes and tires are a must, unless you have enough for the track day. My rule is, if the brake compound is thinner than the backing pad, time to change the pads. Can't really comment about driveline or steering. If you don't hear any whine from either one, chances are it's probably good.
 
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Frank.JD.Perez
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That sounds like a bunch. When you change motor mounts, I would highly recommend going polyurethane mounts. They are much more durable than part store oem style replacements, and the difference in NVH is almost nonexistent. Personally, I'm running Energy Suspension brand, they've been nothing but great for the past 5 years.

Brakes and tires are a must, unless you have enough for the track day. My rule is, if the brake compound is thinner than the backing pad, time to change the pads. Can't really comment about driveline or steering. If you don't hear any whine from either one, chances are it's probably good.

Yeah I was planning on going poly. I hear a whine under hard driving while autocrossing so I'm sure it needs replacing. I want to go with the 15:1 or whatever the cobra r one is as well as the MM steering shafts but again. More money. Not enough time. Also I think I need to replace my front bearings
 

ReplicaR

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Whine for these cars under hard driving is pretty normal, and that's not really something that rack can change. That's mostly your power steering pump. Don't forget you're running a hydraboost as well, so that's a lot of load on that pump. Just make sure the level is good, and you should be all set. Maybe look into getting a power steering cooler, if you don't have one from factory.

ALL power steering mustang racks are the same ratio. Cobra R didn't have quick ratio or anything like that, just heavier steering feel due to less power assist. I'm running a 2003 Cobra rack in my car, which is somewhere in between of stock GT and Cobra R. It's a bit heavier, but also much more attainable. I got mine off ebay for 170 shipped back in 2011.
 
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Frank.JD.Perez
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Whine for these cars under hard driving is pretty normal, and that's not really something that rack can change. That's mostly your power steering pump. Don't forget you're running a hydraboost as well, so that's a lot of load on that pump. Just make sure the level is good, and you should be all set. Maybe look into getting a power steering cooler, if you don't have one from factory.

ALL power steering mustang racks are the same ratio. Cobra R didn't have quick ratio or anything like that, just heavier steering feel due to less power assist. I'm running a 2003 Cobra rack in my car, which is somewhere in between of stock GT and Cobra R. It's a bit heavier, but also much more attainable. I got mine off ebay for 170 shipped back in 2011.

If 97 came with it stock then I don't know why I wouldn't have a cooler. But the steering rack I'm looking at is the one on lmr. I don't remember the brand off the top of my head but it's like 500 bucks
 

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If your rack is fine, don't waste your money. You will probably feel nothing. 94-95s came with power steering cooler stock.
 

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I've looked into AGR racks when I was looking for mine, and all I saw was a mixed bag of reviews. Too many units were going bad in my opinion, and it was priced significantly more expensive than the 2003 Cobra rack. For me the decision was a no brainer. If you're looking to do an upgrade, be patient and find a low mile 03-04 rack like I did. It's an OEM part, so it will be reliable, and it will work just as you expect it. The steering feel will be just a bit heavier than it used to be. Don't expect a drastic difference.
 

lwarrior1016

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Solid engine mounts, manual steering and brakes. That will make you one with the car. You will be in control of everything!
 
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Frank.JD.Perez
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A How To! by mister Sinister Mustang: Front Coil Springs for the UnInitiated

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE MECHANICALLY INCLINED *to most of us this is like potty training so we got it down* How To install front coil springs! A step-by-step provided by the mind of Frank J Perez.

Step 1: get yourself a set of springs

*bam*

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Step 2: Get a Car! *hopefully you did this before step 1...*

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Step 3: If your car is already low or youre having clearance issues get something solid like a piece of wood or a little ramp to drive up on so you can get under the front. For me i have tons of left over parts from the maintenance my dad has done on the camry he has.

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Step 4: Drive vehicle onto "spacers"

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Step 5: MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THE CAR YOU LOOSEN THE LUG NUTS

Step 6: raise the car up and make sure its high enough to get jack stands under at nearly the highest lift. You will be needing to swing the front control arms down quite a bit to get the spring out. One of the best places to position the stands are on the k member right "behind" the control arms.

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Step 7: Put on your isolators *or in this scenario wrap them top and bottom with electrical tape*

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Step 8: remove wheels from spindles *look at that big ol tire*

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Step 9: Acknowledge that these 4 bolts will be the most annoying and time consuming part of unbolting and bolting

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Step 10: loosen the sway bar end links and then proceed to remove them. Youll need *for me at least* 9/16 for your tools a short one and a long one. While loosening the links it helps to hold onto the sway bar so you can be sure to keep it in one place. Once removed put it all back together as to not lose any parts or forget how it went together.

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Step 11: Removing the brake caliper and rotors. Use a 15mm to loosen the bolts and once removed suspend the caliper so it does not sag and rip your brake hose or give you a bad time when you go try to brake later.

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Step 12: remove the "locking" bolt/washer from the bolts holding in your struts. You will need a 13/16 and a 15/16. the Bolt is a 15/16. Work your magic like on the weird stairs walk run thing of a machine at the gym *if you do that kind of thing* With the bolt off now the abs bracket is free to come off.

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Step 13: remove the abs lines from the brakets so you have more play and so they too dont break. there are 3 points where it needs to be removed.

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