Stealth Mare: from the begining

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Frank.JD.Perez
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A How To! Part 2!

Step 14: Remove the tie rod end links from the spindle. You will need a 18mm to get it off but first you need some pliers to remove the little pin. Once the pin is removed and bolt off proceed to put the bolt on upside down and thread it down a tad. Now go find a hammer. Now use that hammer..to create mass destruction for about .5 seconds. Then realize you're not trying to break things and lightly tap until the end link comes out of the spindle. At this step move the jack under the control arm where the spring is. this will be utilized in the next step.

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Step 15: Go back to the weird gym work out thing and take out the 2 bolts and nuts holding in the strut. Again make sure you keep it together. Now since you have everything unbolted and out of the way slowly let the jack down so the spring can decompress slowly and not break your face. Usually at this part is where you would need to use a crow bar to pry the enormous spring out, but since i already had FRPP lowing springs i didnt need the crow bar. Now you have the ability to push the entire a arm down which you will need to do to remove the spring. using one hand on the arm or your foot will suffice. Eventually you will get it out and you will see this.

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***Take a brief intermission to check everything, get some food and water and mentally prepare for the next steps***

Step 16: Check everything and clean the bottom of the a arm housing for the spring. You will also notice there are 2 holes. Remember those guys. Once you clean it up look for those 2 holes. If you follow the housing like a snake you will see the hole facing the front of the car *on the passenger side and on the drivers side its facing the rear* this hole is where you want to line up the pig tail of your springs when they go in. Also check the top of the housing for the spring to make sure its clean and you dont have any issues.

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Step 17: Now you get to put in your new springs! Yay! Muscle those bad boys in and try not to mess them up while also being weary that they need to be placed a specific way *allude to the previous step* If the springs aren't lining up correctly just move the a arms down like you did to remove the stockers and adjust accordingly. Once in place use the jack to move the a arm back up into place. Move them up high enough to start to get the bolts back in for the struts and once they're both in you can lower the jack and get it out of your way. Once the bolts are in put your tie rod end links back in and finger tighten them. They will be tightened when your car is down on the ground. Start putting things back together like they were before you decided to destroy your precious vehicle. Double check your placement on the springs. Both the sides should have one hole exposed. Once you're done checking and it looks like the picture put everything back together and start on the other side!

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And then after you've passed in flying colors you can jump to swapping out your rear end!

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Whoops wrong write up...


I know this is nothing new and a super simple swap to the mass majority of us here on the site, but i know this may help out others like [MENTION=20901]Royal96[/MENTION] , [MENTION=21754]nic[/MENTION] , and [MENTION=21680]Stock982v[/MENTION] as some of these people have asked questions in the past or seeking some type of guidance.
 

ReplicaR

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lol, I don't think I have that many pictures in my whole build thread, this is only for front springs? How are you liking those H&R Super Race springs? I was running those in the back in conjunction with front MM coilover kit.
 
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lol, I don't think I have that many pictures in my whole build thread, this is only for front springs? How are you liking those H&R Super Race springs? I was running those in the back in conjunction with front MM coilover kit.

I haven't driven much but I can tell they're way better than the c springs in stiffness. Frpp springs were lower though
 

ReplicaR

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With your stock k-member, low is the last thing you need. H&R Race is probably he best conventionally mounted spring on the market. They offer the most spring rate, more linear than the rest of the springs, and good amount of drop to work with stock suspension geometry.
 
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With your stock k-member, low is the last thing you need. H&R Race is probably he best conventionally mounted spring on the market. They offer the most spring rate, more linear than the rest of the springs, and good amount of drop to work with stock suspension geometry.

Well ill see tomorrow how the car is acting. She seems to be doing better so I may be making it to sow. We will see
 
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Howd the rear swap go?

so it took awhile but it went ...ok lol. i needed to finish the job today because the calipers for some reason were out more than they should have been so i needed to push them in. after that happened i needed to bleed the 2 rears and now she seems fine. some little things here and there ill be paying attention to but im so happy to finally have gear back hahah
 
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Some of you may know I recently swapped out my rear end with another Mustang owner. Well I wasn't smart enough to remember I know the entire history of my rear end while for all I know the one I swapped and is now in my car could be metal soup. It was always my plan to build the rear end I swapped in unless it was already built. So I'll be getting 373s sometime soon. I'd like to do the entire 31 spline upgrade, but that just doesn't seem like something I will be able to accomplish soon. After talking with some members here on the site I'm pretty sure one of the bearings is bad. I'll be getting a frpp aluminum driveshaft soon as well as taking in the Mare to be looked at.
 

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Nice write-up Frank! Bummer to get parts that need maintenance but an axle bearing isn't hard to replace, a pinion now that's a different story. Hope you figure it out

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