Stereo is almost there

joekd

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Went out of my way to be sure I had no plans for today and spent a good 5 hours rewiring the Mustang the way I wanted it

-Pulled out all seats, door panels, side panels and door sills

-Ran new 4 ga power wire direct from the alt to the trunk into a fused dist box so I can split it to supply power to my Infinity basslink and new Kenwood 4ch amp

-Ran new 14 ga speaker wires for my front Kappa components

-Ran 14 ga speaker wire to both rear kappas

-Ran new RCA's under carpet

Next step is to work on an amp rack for the Kenwood and get that in the car. Once that is in the only thing left to do will be to swap my Pioneer HU out for the new JVC Arsenal unit
 

KillNThrill24

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i hav no system in my stang, its in my grand am. but iv done all of that stuff before. i have 2 Rockford 6.5's in the front doors of my 99 grand am gt, some $40 Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck both powered by a Rockford T400-2, and American Bass XD 15's in a ported box run on an RE Audio XT4000D V2 all runnin to a Pioneer double din that i couldnt for the life of me tell you what model it is lol something made in 2010.

and running all the power wires, speaker wires, etc etc etc is quite annoying i have to admit and VERY time consuming if done properly. so props bro, i know the work you put in to the system!
 

KillNThrill24

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actually ttocs if he has the whole system in, and ready to rock and roll.. he doesnt need the inline. i havent had one on since my first system and iv swapped maaaaaany systems. im not saying dont use one, they are there for safety purposes, but he doesnt exactly need one.

good call tho, if he does use one you want it no longer than i believe 1ft from the power source.
 

ttocs

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well yes technically a 10 sec 1/4 mile car doesn't "need" a roll cage to go that fast but I would call anyone making sub 10 sec passes with out one not nearly as smart as someone with one..... If your power wire shorts out, you will either burn up the voltage regulator in the alt or maybe just the bridge rectifier diodes in it but it would none-the-less leave you on the side of the road calling a tow truck and replacing some parts that just are not needed. Now on my system if there is a short, I will find the short, insulate it, replace a $1 fuse and be on my way. Lots of people run power wires with out fuses but that doesn't make it right. I mean let me ask you what do you really think your saving yourself? The $10 fuse holder or the 10 mins to install it?
 
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joekd

joekd

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be sure to fuse that power wire as close to the alt as you can.

Already done, in line fuse mounted to top of the underhood fusebox, the additional fuses in the rear on the dist box are just extra insurance
 

KillNThrill24

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whoa tocs buddy i was simply saying you dont NEED one.... i never said anything about it being the right way to do it either. iv had no inline for 4yrs now with no fail. im not in anyway saying it CANT happen because i know it can, but thats just the risk i gotta take. im runnin around 2k rms to one amp on one power wire and about 400rms on the other power wire. i got double the trouble if something goes wrong but its all good.

steave meade doesnt use one, why should i? :p

tbh i was initally just too lazy to go to the audio store and buy one lol but i didnt hav any issues so i left it
 
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joekd

joekd

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Myself I would never run any type of power line without an in line fuse. I didn't spend all this time planning the way I wanted to redo everything and not get all my parts together first.

Is it overkill to have it fused underhood, then fused again at the dist then fuses on the amps themself? Yes. But as mentioned if I have a problem all I am changing is a couple fuses, not making an insurance claim for an electrical fire.
 

g36 monkey

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I wouldn't argue with ttocs on the subject matter. He was a professsional installer for years, knows his schtuff.
 

KillNThrill24

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i wasnt arguing in any way lol.. im not big into virtual arguments. im just saying thats how i do it. i didnt mean for him to take it that way lol i promise that
 

ttocs

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whoa tocs buddy i was simply saying you dont NEED one.... i never said anything about it being the right way to do it either. iv had no inline for 4yrs now with no fail. im not in anyway saying it CANT happen because i know it can, but thats just the risk i gotta take. im runnin around 2k rms to one amp on one power wire and about 400rms on the other power wire. i got double the trouble if something goes wrong but its all good.

steave meade doesnt use one, why should i? :p

tbh i was initally just too lazy to go to the audio store and buy one lol but i didnt hav any issues so i left it

Steve meade is running dedicated spl systems where every tenth of a volt matters to his output and his score. When do you compete aginst him next?

You just summed it up yourself not adding a fuse is just lazy.......... To then justify it and say that you know it isn't right but do it anyway because it works is just, eh I will bite my tongue. You saved yourself $10 and 10 mins on the install in hopes that it will just burn your alt out before the cable welds itself to the chassis, melts the insulation and anthing around this. As he said I did this full time for a long time and I can't tell you how many cars I worked on, too many too count. I can tell you in that time I had 3 cars with a black line burned into the carpet back to the back seat area where the wire shorted. They were lucky they didn't catch the car on fire honestly and said they didn't know what to do when they saw the wire glow orange before it melted.

I will tell you the same thing I told those customers - install a fuse holder, or install a fire extinguisher and keep your AAA up to date. Also if it does catch fire, you will want to try and hide the fact that you rigged up the power wire yourself and failed to follow rule #1. I did know one person whose car caught fire because of this reason and was denied a pay-out since they found the owner set the car on fire though his own negligence(true story).
 

g36 monkey

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Yea, insurance would not pay out for an electrical fire due to something being modified in the vehicle. Only chance of getting any money is if a shop did it. And no shop is going to install a system with no fuse.
 

ttocs

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So this turned into an argument over a $10 fuse? Interesting.

not at all. The op was wise enough to install a fuse which is all I cared about. I never thought someone would pop up to debate the use or need of a fuse since it is such a basic idea in wiring. Not sure why everyone thinks we are arguing really? I agreed that you do not "need" a fuse just like a <10 sec 1/4 mile car doesn't "need" a roll cage to go fast but I also stand by my mantra of install a fuse or install a fire ext.

I have dealt with customers for years on this and it was always funny to see the peoples faces when I would suggest a fire ext, they have them now in isle 15. The most memorable though was right after I said that same line his UBER smart buddy leaned over to him and said,"Naw dawg. We ran that nice high-temp cable you will smell it before it catches fire". I stood there, pretty sure mouth was open in amazement as this guy has even ran the wire through the firewall with no grommet. I just agreed that yes you would smell it first but when it glows bright orange you will want to do something, and do nothing all at the same time.
 

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No fuse for us system is simply being welfare about the situation
 

philly101

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So when you say you wired it from the alt what the diff from that way an comeing right off the battery
 
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joekd

joekd

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In the old days a lot of installers would go off the alt to get a better feed without doing a big 3 upgrade, I did it because I was out of 4ga inputs on my battery terminals and I liked this option a lot better then changing my terminals again. Really like my digital readout terminals.

battterm599.jpg
 

philly101

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I like that to were do you get a digital readout terminal. Wha would be a good sub an box to have some good bass with the top done since we have limited space in the verts
 
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