stupid question...

[MustangChris]

alright guys... i see these "what should i do" threads and i always think "how hard could it be, just do what you want..."


well, heres my "what should i do" thread. lol.

my car is having a few issues. its a long story, but nothing major. at the end of the day: $400.00 for a motor swap is the worst-case-scenario.

my dad asked me if my car was running (replaced starter and it was down for a while for some issues) and i mentioned how dis-satisfied i was with it and he says "Why dont you get a new one?"

well, that got my friend jabbing at me to get a new one. lol. we started looking and ive decided the only car i want other than my 96GT is a 03/04 red convertible cobra.

the kicker is i have major plans for my GT. Teskid block+blower+4v heads. so it will have a stroked out, bored out, fully built motor making more power than a stock cobra. Im budgeting $20,000.00 for the motor build. this happens to be the cost of a cobra.

would you sell your GT (runs 15.5 @ 89) thats fully paid off for a 03 cobra (runs 14 flat) that you would need a loan to afford? my gt will probably fetch $5,000.00 meaning i need a $15,000 loan...

i dono... im just tired of being balls-@** slow.... im leaning toward N2O on the 2v npi GT and then slowly building the teskid. does that sound like a more-sound plan?

im tired of not having power windows, or locks... i dono... maybe i need a power-filled daily driver. lol.

 

[blown98gt]

this is my bit of personal experience and offering of my honesty opinion.

this is a method that has always! worked for me and has never caused a problem...
personally i understand that the financial world can not survive without loans, interest, and so on.

I've never bought anything i couldn't pay in cash for. I've taken a loan out several times BUT i've always had the money in my savings and just setup up allotments to pull my monthly fee from the savings. I think it's important for younger people who want to build credit to take this advice, it's easy to get into a loan (and God forbid with the economy the way it is) not be able to finish paying a loan then you lose a car when you had one paid off already.

everything i've bought, my strange 33 spline rear end; $625.00 bucks shipped, i paid in cash for this item that way it's money i've put to the side and all bills are paid. things like this make a huge difference and if you can manage money now, when you get older it's a lot easier to live with a family and so on.
another thing i paid for my MPH custom blower cams, $600 bucks not including springs. I just set my allotments to pull a certain amount of money into my saving and when it's up to the next item (I have a priority list lol) i buy that item lol so i guess to sum all this up... just be caution when going into a loan (i'll assume you're father will cosign since you are selling your car) weight the options out and in the end do what you think you should do

 

[MustangChris]

this is my bit of personal experience and offering of my honesty opinion.

this is a method that has always! worked for me and has never caused a problem...
personally i understand that the financial world can not survive without loans, interest, and so on.

I've never bought anything i couldn't pay in cash for. I've taken a loan out several times BUT i've always had the money in my savings and just setup up allotments to pull my monthly fee from the savings. I think it's important for younger people who want to build credit to take this advice, it's easy to get into a loan (and God forbid with the economy the way it is) not be able to finish paying a loan then you lose a car when you had one paid off already.

everything i've bought, my strange 33 spline rear end; $625.00 bucks shipped, i paid in cash for this item that way it's money i've put to the side and all bills are paid. things like this make a huge difference and if you can manage money now, when you get older it's a lot easier to live with a family and so on.
another thing i paid for my MPH custom blower cams, $600 bucks not including springs. I just set my allotments to pull a certain amount of money into my saving and when it's up to the next item (I have a priority list lol) i buy that item lol so i guess to sum all this up... just be caution when going into a loan (i'll assume you're father will cosign since you are selling your car) weight the options out and in the end do what you think you should do

nah, probably be in my name alone. as is my current vehicle. ill probably use the car purchased as colateral for the loan. I.E. sell my car for $5,000 which i will then drop as a down payment on a cobra, which is $20,000, so there is $15,000 remaining on a $20,000 car. I will use the declared value of the cobra for a $15,000 loan.


the problem is i have a morgage to pay as well. ... . . boo. perhaps a $2,000 blower will be the right way to go.? i dono.

 

[duh09]

Another option: Get a nice DD and make the Mustang the official powerhouse. Get you something cheap and realiable (well optioned civic, camry, etc). Then you have a nice car for getting around town, plus when you're working on your car, swapping in this beastly 4v, you'll still have a ride. Keep the miles off the Mustang, and keep tread on the tires after the 4v.

 

[MustangChris]

yea, i think ill look into N2O and a DD...

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Keep what you have and get a DD. I think you may be hard pressed to find a Termy vert for 20k, unless it has big miles on it.

 

[blown98gt]

i hate people who want to go straight to Nitrous... ok got it nitrous can make power.. but 40 bucks to fill a 10 lb bottle

10 fills = 400 bucks
used kit = 300 bucks
approx 700 bucks already..

plus each time you fill it, it's 40 bucks depending on your area... i mean common sense to me says save the money and buy a s/c lol

also considering the mortgage and all, i'd say buy a cheap cheap dd (go to an auto auction spend less than a grand on a dd) then build the stang.. the money spent on a nitrous kit could get you a dd from an auto auction lol

 

[US Soldier(stang 98)]

i would buy a DD and save the stang as you play toy that what im doing and i love it. i drive a 05 ranger fx4 for a DD and keep the miles off the mustang. pluss when i put parts on it i dont have to get done right as soon as i start you know you can take your time and do it right.

 

[ARdoller]

for a 03 cobra (runs 14 flat)

if youre running 14's in an 03 cobra, you need a new driver mod bad.

 

[DropTopPony]

I used to think about this a lot and always came to the same conclusion... i like the way my car looks more then a new one plus its already paid for so if i break it its not sitting waiting for a repair costing me 300-400 month.

I almost traded mine in for a Bullitt in 01 but thankfully the sales manager used the "insult the trade technique" and i laughed my way out the door. Now i would add a Bullitt but not get rid of my vert.

Maybe a PI engine swap would be a good fix for you while you save money to build the beast you really want.
Pummel is a guy on Corral.net and PhillyStangs and has been trying to sell a PI Explorer engine for like $700.... if he still has it he might be willing to make a better deal to cover shipping to you. Just a suggestion.... then you would have 2 aluminum blocks

 

[MustangChris]

for a 03 cobra (runs 14 flat)

if youre running 14's in an 03 cobra, you need a new driver mod bad.

altitude... ive heard that 1000 times about MY car...

the FASTEST stock shelby GT500 ive seen ran a 13.5... once... the rest of the night he ran a 13.7s... that should put things in perspective for ya..

i hate people who want to go straight to Nitrous... ok got it nitrous can make power.. but 40 bucks to fill a 10 lb bottle

10 fills = 400 bucks
used kit = 300 bucks
approx 700 bucks already..

plus each time you fill it, it's 40 bucks depending on your area... i mean common sense to me says save the money and buy a s/c lol

also considering the mortgage and all, i'd say buy a cheap cheap dd (go to an auto auction spend less than a grand on a dd) then build the stang.. the money spent on a nitrous kit could get you a dd from an auto auction lol

well, considering a $700.00 new kit is less than half of a blower, i was leaning that way. Just to tide me over untill the 4v motor swap. i dont care about my motor. or trans. and my rear end is fully built, so... let 'er rip!

i dont plan on using the N2O all the time... so i dont imagine a bottle fill being a weekly thing.

N2O is poor mans horsepower... plus ive been told its simple to set up. so.... why fight it? ill have a 14 second car for $1000.00... thats alot better (IMO) than a 14 second car that requires tuning for $3000.00

i would buy a DD and save the stang as you play toy that what im doing and i love it. i drive a 05 ranger fx4 for a DD and keep the miles off the mustang. pluss when i put parts on it i dont have to get done right as soon as i start you know you can take your time and do it right.

thats a good point.... im tired of rushing my projects because i dont have time >.< waiting 6 weeks for my ford racing control arms KILLED me... >.<

I used to think about this a lot and always came to the same conclusion... i like the way my car looks more then a new one plus its already paid for so if i break it its not sitting waiting for a repair costing me 300-400 month.

I almost traded mine in for a Bullitt in 01 but thankfully the sales manager used the "insult the trade technique" and i laughed my way out the door. Now i would add a Bullitt but not get rid of my vert.

Maybe a PI engine swap would be a good fix for you while you save money to build the beast you really want.
Pummel is a guy on Corral.net and PhillyStangs and has been trying to sell a PI Explorer engine for like $700.... if he still has it he might be willing to make a better deal to cover shipping to you. Just a suggestion.... then you would have 2 aluminum blocks

is it built and accesssoriszed? i dont want another project, i just want to drop it in. lol.

 

[jc95gt]

get a termi...no 1 is making you pay the monthly payments haha...
just dont let the repo man find ya

 

[MustangChris]

get a termi...no 1 is making you pay the monthly payments haha...
just dont let the repo man find ya

oh, of course... lol

maybe if you sell me those seats for a discount ill feel better about my car..... LOL!

 

[ARdoller]

for a 03 cobra (runs 14 flat)

if youre running 14's in an 03 cobra, you need a new driver mod bad.

altitude... ive heard that 1000 times about MY car...

the FASTEST stock shelby GT500 ive seen ran a 13.5... once... the rest of the night he ran a 13.7s... that should put things in perspective for ya..

theyre listed at 13.12 @ 109.58 from the factory... the altitude where youre at is going to add .8sec?

 

[MustangChris]

for a 03 cobra (runs 14 flat)

if youre running 14's in an 03 cobra, you need a new driver mod bad.

altitude... ive heard that 1000 times about MY car...

the FASTEST stock shelby GT500 ive seen ran a 13.5... once... the rest of the night he ran a 13.7s... that should put things in perspective for ya..

theyre listed at 13.12 @ 109.58 from the factory... the altitude where youre at is going to add .8sec?

usually more than that... the NHRA qualifying rounds here add 1.0 to the times.

so for example, you need to run a 9.999 at sea level to qualify, here is 10.999

what would you HONESTLY expect from a NPI GT with FULL bolt ons (minus the PI IM, throttle body, plenum.) ?? would it be anywhere NEAR 15.0? ive bolted everything i can to my motor with those three exceptions and to change my exhaust from shorties with a catted x to LTs with a o/r prochamber. i mean... theres NOTHING left except boost or a motor swap or something major.

its safe to add 1.2 seconds to a 1/4 mile run for a naturally aspirated car when "bench racing." my car =15.5 with full bolt ons at 6,100 feet. 14.3 at 0 feet is much more realastic, dont you think?

people tend to add 1 second to a supercharged car 14 secs =13 secs.

and people tend to add about .8 (usually they round up to the 1.0) to a turboed car.


now, obviously this is just ball-park junk for internet bench racing. what do the new GT500s run at sea level?

"According to a road test in the July 2006 issue of Car and Driver magazine, the boys from Ann Arbor clocked their Shelby GT500 at 0-60 mph in 4.5 seconds with the quarter-mile at 12.9 seconds. " -http://mustangs.about.com/od/modelyearprofiles/a/gt500vschallngr.htm

12.9 at sea level = 13.5 in Colorado. (13.7 consistantly) thats about the 1 second that "bench racers" add to their times...

 

[19mustang95]

i hate people who want to go straight to Nitrous... ok got it nitrous can make power.. but 40 bucks to fill a 10 lb bottle

10 fills = 400 bucks
used kit = 300 bucks
approx 700 bucks already..

plus each time you fill it, it's 40 bucks depending on your area... i mean common sense to me says save the money and buy a s/c lol

also considering the mortgage and all, i'd say buy a cheap cheap dd (go to an auto auction spend less than a grand on a dd) then build the stang.. the money spent on a nitrous kit could get you a dd from an auto auction lol

except nitrous will usually make more power and definitely more torque than a blower will, stock for stock..

 

[Ninety5_5Ohh]

Personally I'd keep your 96, and get a 301 stroker with the Trick Flow heads, custom grind cams, find a kenne bell 2.1 or larger and rock out. Then throw some suspension at it, and i bet you could pull the 03-04 cobras like a wagon. I miss my 2v so much. Not many guys like the 2v, I love them, especially now that trickflow has a 2v hci kit that puts the 2v in the 400 hp range with an agressive tune.

Nitrous is a lot of fun, but a full bottle only last 2 - 3 good passes before its cashed. I ran a 125 wet shot on my PI 2v for almost 3 years with out any issue other than tuning. That and damn near 250 passes.

Honestly id stick with a 2v over a 4v. Parts for teh 4v are a lot more expensive. A good set of cams, springs, install and tune will run you damn near 2 grand

4.6 FTMFW

 

[MustangChris]

yea, i think ill leave the 4v for my race car. lol. that way if it blows up and i need to drop $4,000 on the heads, it can sit for 2 years. lol