The Torque Converter Thread

[voidfinger]

Ok guys, there has been a lot of talk lately on the subject of Torque Converters over many many threads. So lets keep all the T/C talk in here. Any info you can impart will be great. Maybe a check list of stuff for the auto / TC that need to be performed to help durability and such. Also, common stalls and recommended stalls for our cars. So let it roll.

 

[97stanger]

+1, i would like to see what kind of TC you would recommend for a s/c cam'd car...maybe even create a list of the general range you should be looking for if your n/a, s/c, cam'd, and so on.

Also, I think it should be understood that for guys who are in the market for a TC, these threads may help you out on getting an idea of what stall range to go with but the only true way is to give the person who is making the stall for you your dyno sheet so they can see your power band.

 

[95-stang]

I would really like to see much of that too, ie, could a standard motor benefit in any way from a higher stall, are they any good for daily drivers, and if so, what stall to get. I appreciate thats asking a lot.

 

[GaryG]

id be interested in this as well, since im goin w/ turbo

 

[Zwolaver21]

I talked to darrin at bc-automotive the other day about a transmission and TC for my car. With all the mods that are going in he told me would go no less than 3600 stall and this is on my DD. He also said he was having some sales right now. Just to let yall know if any of you are looking to get one right now. I think I am going to buy a transmission and tc package from him tomorrow!

 

[voidfinger]

Go for it, if you don't your :uglystupid2:

 

[94darkhorse]

I think it'd be a great sticky. It could point people in the right direction at least.

 

[voidfinger]

MODS STICKY

 

[DropTopPony]

MODS STICKY

There isn't any info in it to sticky.....yet.

 

[voidfinger]

yep i know, just when it gets going later. That dude with the mark 8 suppose to come by and impart some knowledge sometime :dunno:

 

[95-stang]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

Or a few bits copying and pasting over from all the other threads on the subject.

 

[Dalamar]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

Post up some technical and reference info, and we'll sticky it up!

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

I'll be in here later to tell what I know imp2: Cuz I'm a snitch, lol

Ok, first off,

How it works - The easiest way is to imagine two fans, just regular desk fans. Now imagine pointing them at each other, about 1 inch apart. Now imagine turning one on... Slowly but surely the other fan blade will spin up, until eventually they are going effectively the same speed. This is how your converter works (very simply, if you know in detail don't poke holes in my example, it's close enough). Now then, the fan that isn't on will never really go quite the same speed as the one that is. There will be a loss between them. The same loss is present in older converter's, and in non lock up modern converters. This leads to heat and reduced eficiency, which is why lock up converters where invented. Effective, in 3rd and 4th gear's, they lock the one side to the other, making sure all power get's transmitted. Fuel mileage goes up, and drivetrain loss goes down.

Stall Speed - This does not mean that you need to rev your car to 3200 rpm or whatever it is before it will move. Stall speed is simply put, the speed when the front of the converter (engine side) and rear of the coverter (trans side) are moving the same speed. Now with a footbrake, you won't see the true stall speed, the car will move first, but with a trans brake you will because a trans brake locks the imput shaft. So take that into account when selecting a converter. Also, if you have a lock up unit, it doesn't matter if the stall speed is above your cruise RPM, the computer will still lock it, and your mileage will only suffer around town.

***I'll finish later, I have company :behind:

 

[voidfinger]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

Thanks for the input

 

[SnakedMark8]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

I'm going to cut and paste from another thread to this on just to keep the info in the right place.

Lonnie,
For my setup i was thinking i would need a multi disc or very good single...i will be @ 400rwhp/400rwtq alot of it down low in the rpms (PD Blower).
I'd like to have it be able to last as a dailydriver and hold up under the once a month street night 1/4 mile blasts. What do you suggest?

Also did JL send you over here? This is a good forum to sell your product....it hasn't been tapped yet
Maybe you should consider becoming a Sponsor and hooking us up with nice discounts.

For a PD blower you don't want to get crazy with the stall since you've got a lot of low end torque with these setups. It sounds like you’re going with a base kit. Chances are a little boost won’t be enough for you, it never is for anyone. They always want more power later on. As for stall, I would keep it below 3400 rpms. With a 450 – 500 rwtq 3200 rpm would work out great. A good single disc would such as my Stage III 9.5 inch would hold up just fine and more than likely be your last TC purchase for that vehicle. The Stage II that I’m currently working on will be a billet also and may be a cheaper alternative but it hasn’t been tested yet. If you don’t plan on exceeding 500 ft lbs then it may work out just fine for you.

You don’t need a multi disc for that level of power. The whole idea behind the multi disc is more clamping, holding force by having multiple friction surface areas. Most TC manufactures won’t mess with them for a gasoline vehicle because they can’t put out the torque a diesel can. So the only design multi disc setups are for diesels. Most factory diesel trucks now come with multi disc by the way. PI has a good design, it’s light and the actual mechanics of it work. The problem with theirs is that the piston flexes when applied and they use the paper thin friction material that won’t hold up. I’ve seen too many of these just burn up and contaminate the fluid causing transmission problems. Now if you come across a used one it may be worth having it relined with better friction material. I can have that done for you also. There’s a couple other’s out there that offer a multi disc but they are very heavy and as I found out the hard way don’t hold up.

With these type of TCs you have to keep the weight down and that’s hard to do with all the parts involved with them. Also size is another problem, you have to get all those parts inside that TC which is a small space. To do this they have to decrease the size of parts going into it. This includes the frictions. A lot of times the amount of friction surface area is only increased slightly over a single disc. The PI multi disc actually has less surface area than my Stage II single disc and it will hold up to more power than the PI.

With these two 10 inch TCs I’m working on they will be designed specifically for the budget minded without sacrificing the good parts. This week my builder will be taking the specs we came up with and assembling a product for testing. The Stage I will be a major step up from the stock Mach 1/ Marauder 11.25 or what other companies offer by relining these TCs. It will have 30 inches of high carbon friction material vice the 18 for much better holding capability. Using an 11 inch front cover and 10 inch pump. Upgraded bearings and new turbine hub and is designed for the 350 – 400 ft lb applications. Where as the Stage II will be will be an upgrade with billet front cover, with some other strengthening parts installed to hold up to 450 – 500 ft lbs.

No JL didn’t send me here but I know him, he’s a good friend of mine. I think he’s still running a TC from the same builder I’m using for these new TCs but a much more pricey unit. I initially didn’t come here to sell anything. I was asked to come here but 3 different guys 2 were customers but all three where getting conflicting answers for people. I was told that Dallas Mustang was already a sponsor but they don’t interact with the site unless they are selling or have a sale. My idea of a sponsor is someone that also interacts with the site. I sent an email and PM to the site’s admin to see what it takes to become a sponsor but haven’t heard back.

 

[SnakedMark8]

+1, i would like to see what kind of TC you would recommend for a s/c cam'd car...maybe even create a list of the general range you should be looking for if your n/a, s/c, cam'd, and so on.

Also, I think it should be understood that for guys who are in the market for a TC, these threads may help you out on getting an idea of what stall range to go with but the only true way is to give the person who is making the stall for you your dyno sheet so they can see your power band.

You brought up a good point about the dyno graph. I've tuned enough of these vehicles with different combinations to know where they make power. But it really helps to actually see a dyno graph so that the shop or who ever you are ordering the TC from knows what your engine is actually producing. Not everyone can have a dyno graph though. This is way I have a spec order sheet that I require you to fill out on line. Or when you call I ask you a lot of questions, I'm filling out the form for you. Beware of shops or businesses that don't do this and tell you what they want to sell you, "I have the perfect TC for you" before they even get all the vehicle specs. Also most Stangers don't settle for a few bolt ons. To avoid buying something that you will have to replace later you should do your homework. What do you really want your vehicle to do? What will the end product be. If you just have a few bolt ons now and are planning a NOS or forced induction later then you need to either purchase a TC for that final setup. Or purchase a TC that will be able to work with that combination but at the stall you want or need now. Then later you can send the TC back for a restall for the final phase. This is where a lot of people make a mistake. They purchase something like a B & M Hole Shot that can't hold up to some serious hp. Then they end up spending more money on a new TC vice having the one they have restalled. TC's such as the Hole Shot or Edge are basically considered disposable TCs.

Stall speeds really depend on the what you are wanting out of the car as well as the vehicle combinations. You'll want a higher stall for an NA vehicle vice a blown one. Then there's a difference between a positive displacement and centrifugal or turbo. The weight of the vehicle is also something to take in. For instance I cater to the CV/Marauder and Tbird crowd also. A 3000 stall in a Mustang really wakes them up for a simple daily driver with simple mods. This would be considers a mild stall and something that you wife or GF wouldn't complain about when driving. The same 3000 stall in a CV will still stall at the 3000 rpms but it won't be as noticeable due to the weight difference. I've taken a the same 3000 rpm TC from a Mustang and then installed it into a Town Car. Both vehicles had the same mods, the Mustang of course has a better exhaust, same power output though. The Mustang would just get sideways from the launch throwing you back where as the Town Car would just produce a two wheel squeal and gently plant you in the seat. The Town Car actually would benefit from a 3200 stall over the 3000.

 

[97stanger]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

what i would like to know is what is the difference between a single/multi lock up converter and how you know which one you should get??

 

[SnakedMark8]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

This is copied from the thread that got this all started. I wanted to put all the info in one place so we don't have to go searching for it.

My mechanic just informed me that my tranny and tourque converter are shot. I might as well get a higher stall converter since I have to replace it anyways. Fuel economy is important to me (yes I know it's a mustang and I shouldn't!!) I called tci and they recommended a 1800 stall lock-up and pi recommended a 2600 lock-up. The local guy I deal with said no higher than 1800. If anyone has any experiance with this can you please chime in.

1) recommended stall speed for daily driver with some sort of fuel economy in mind

2) does the computer need a special tune?

Thank you for your input!!!!
(Mods in sig)

stock on these cars is like 2300 or 2500. From what i hear NPI needs around 3200 and PI needs around 3500 rpm stalls. Don't forget that our converters are lock up style converters so they get pretty good gas milage when they are locked. I'm not quite sure if they require a tune or not...

Your shop help must be on crack. Voidfinger is correct in the fact that your stock TC stalls somewhere 2400 rpms. One of the problems with torque converter suppliers is that they can rate their stall by one of several different methods of rating stall that I have seen. I sell my TCs by actual stall and not by any other rating. This is why I have you fill out a spec sheet on your vehicle and want to know actual hp/tq numbers, not exaggerated ones. What those other TC shops do really hurts the guys that use the actual stall way of doing it because it causes a lot of arguments that needn't be. Bottom line is that stall ratings can really get messed up when the company doesn't have the factual info to start with and that happens a lot. They think the stock converter stalls at 1800 like in your GT and then offer one 800 above that so they call it a 2600. So what happens is you end up with a loose converter that isn’t as efficient. The company you suggested builds TCs by this method and not by the actual stall method also. I would suggest a 3200 – 3400 rpm stall. That would make the one that I suggest stall at 2600 when it is actually really a 3400. This would make my 3400 converter a tighter converter than that one you from PI.

I imagine the PI you are referring to is a single plate Stallion converter. Great 60' times, but you will get your butt handed to you down the track if you go up against a car with the right converter in it.

Also, that PI is a nice little lightweight converter that will get you moving off the line but has less actual lockup clutch friction material than you need to lock the converter clutch up at wide open throttle. So there are both decent advantages and a serious shortcoming to it. They use paper thin abrasive material for their clutch. This material burns up and flakes off. Then besides losing it’s holding abilities the friction material is now traveling through your transmission with the fluid.

I’ve had 3 PI torque converters myself and have had several customers running them from mild to high hp vehicles. Every one of them that I replaced showed burn marks on the cover from the over heating and burnt up frictions.

My personal experience was as follows, I wanted a 3600 rpm stall single plate. When I got it, it didn’t stall where I wanted it just like I explained above. It was so inefficient that I had to go with a larger cooler. Then after 4 weekends at the track it burned up. When I called them and talked with Vicky and some other tech they asked me if I was locking up the TC at WOT. Duh, of course I am. I’m a tuner and I know what it takes to get a car down the track. You have to lock up the TC at WOT. They told me not to do it or it will burn up the TC, the friction material can’t handle it. Now this is straight from PI. I was shocked at this. This is supposed to be a high performance TC and it can’t handle WOT lockups. They then told me if I wanted to be able to lock up the TC at WOT I would need to run their triple disc. I sent my TC back to them and they replaced it with a triple disc at an additional $500. Well the same thing happened, the stall was off and after 2 months of weekend track duty the TC started slipping. I called them and got the same story. They asked at what rpm I was shifting at and I told them 7000, this is my Mark 8, 4.6 DOHC. It doesn’t make a bunch of hp either but runs down the track at 13.2. They told me I had to back down on the shift rpms and not lock the TC up at WOT. That’s when I decided to start searching and testing for a TC that could hold up to WOT lockups and any hp or rpm level. After a couple years I finally have something that works and has been tested behind 700+ rwhp vehicles shifting over 7000 rpm and WOT lockups. The same TC can also work in mild daily drivers without any problems.

Good info snake.
I was thinking the same, that guy is way off.
When I was looking at upgrading my auto, 3200 was what they recommended to give a firmer launch and still remain streetable.

When crusing mellow or on the freeway, I don't think it makes much difference. maybe snaked can explain further.

Your shop help must be on crack. Voidfinger is correct in the fact that your stock TC stalls somewhere 2400 rpms. One of the problems with torque converter suppliers is that they can rate their stall by one of several different methods of rating stall that I have seen. I sell my TCs by actual stall and not by any other rating. This is why I have you fill out a spec sheet on your vehicle and want to know actual hp/tq numbers, not exaggerated ones. What those other TC shops do really hurts the guys that use the actual stall way of doing it because it causes a lot of arguments that needn't be. Bottom line is that stall ratings can really get messed up when the company doesn't have the factual info to start with and that happens a lot. They think the stock converter stalls at 1800 like in your GT and then offer one 800 above that so they call it a 2600. So what happens is you end up with a loose converter that isn’t as efficient. The company you suggested builds TCs by this method and not by the actual stall method also. I would suggest a 3200 – 3400 rpm stall. That would make the one that I suggest stall at 2600 when it is actually really a 3400. This would make my 3400 converter a tighter converter than that one you from PI.

I imagine the PI you are referring to is a single plate Stallion converter. Great 60' times, but you will get your butt handed to you down the track if you go up against a car with the right converter in it.

Also, that PI is a nice little lightweight converter that will get you moving off the line but has less actual lockup clutch friction material than you need to lock the converter clutch up at wide open throttle. So there are both decent advantages and a serious shortcoming to it. They use paper thin abrasive material for their clutch. This material burns up and flakes off. Then besides losing it’s holding abilities the friction material is now traveling through your transmission with the fluid.

I’ve had 3 PI torque converters myself and have had several customers running them from mild to high hp vehicles. Every one of them that I replaced showed burn marks on the cover from the over heating and burnt up frictions.

My personal experience was as follows, I wanted a 3600 rpm stall single plate. When I got it, it didn’t stall where I wanted it just like I explained above. It was so inefficient that I had to go with a larger cooler. Then after 4 weekends at the track it burned up. When I called them and talked with Vicky and some other tech they asked me if I was locking up the TC at WOT. Duh, of course I am. I’m a tuner and I know what it takes to get a car down the track. You have to lock up the TC at WOT. They told me not to do it or it will burn up the TC, the friction material can’t handle it. Now this is straight from PI. I was shocked at this. This is supposed to be a high performance TC and it can’t handle WOT lockups. They then told me if I wanted to be able to lock up the TC at WOT I would need to run their triple disc. I sent my TC back to them and they replaced it with a triple disc at an additional $500. Well the same thing happened, the stall was off and after 2 months of weekend track duty the TC started slipping. I called them and got the same story. They asked at what rpm I was shifting at and I told them 7000, this is my Mark 8, 4.6 DOHC. It doesn’t make a bunch of hp either but runs down the track at 13.2. They told me I had to back down on the shift rpms and not lock the TC up at WOT. That’s when I decided to start searching and testing for a TC that could hold up to WOT lockups and any hp or rpm level. After a couple years I finally have something that works and has been tested behind 700+ rwhp vehicles shifting over 7000 rpm and WOT lockups. The same TC can also work in mild daily drivers without any problems.

So who's TC did you go with? I'm looking at getting a t/c down the road also. So the PI TC's have weeker WOT Lockup disk than the stock one? My stock one held up fine for like 160k...

I was looking at Dirtydog's converters and it was pretty nice. He told me "since i'm so cheap" that he could rebuild one with ~ 3k - 3.2k stall in it for like 260 bucks. Not too bad.

Rob 98GT, I just got off the phone with Darrin from BCA. We are good friends and work together on developing transmissions and building projects. He said you contacted him last night and he’s setting you up with a TC. You’re in good hands; we both offer the same products and stand behind our products. Also to answer your question about needing a tune for a higher stall. Yes it is recommended that you have a custom program build for it.

Dalamar, I like your avatar by the way. I had some info for and artist that you send in a pic of your vehicle and they then come up with a drawing similar to your avatar. I lost the contact info though.

The higher stall converters only affects your take off (launch) or if you are at a low enough mph say 25 – 30 and kick it down to first, have enough rpm range and are blow the TC stall speed. The TC will then flash to the stall speed. The second one I don’t recommend unless you have a good built transmission. During cruising or highway speeds the TC is locked so there are no adverse effects to running a higher stall. With proper tuning these cars can run much higher stall converters than back in the old days. This is because of the 4R70W electronic controls and lockup abilities. Cruising is going to be just like it was when it was stock.

Voidfinger, Ford doesn’t lock up the TC completely during WOT. It does lock up for your Mustang but not 100%. Some vehicles Ford doesn’t allow them to lock up at all during WOT. Ford has what is called Torque Modulation that is used in conjunction with Torque Reduction to protect the drive train and ensure it lasts 100K miles. Some call it Spark Retard also. This most people are familiar with happening during and between the shifts where the EEC pulls out timing. But most don’t realize that this part of the Torque Reduction and so it also modulates the TC to not fully apply to save the Trans also. The EEC calculates the slippage and can adjust the modulation so that nothing burns up. Now depending on if your tuner has the access to all the parameters he can remove this and make the TC fully apply and the amount of apply pressure. Your stock TC if opened up I can guaranty has some wear, burned friction or damage in it if you’ve been doing a lot of WOT shifts.

After the second PI failure I sent the TC back to PI for a relining and re-stall. I had it back for about 3 months but knew that it wasn’t going to hold up. Then I was talked into trying one of Dirtydog’s TCs. He wanted to break into the multiple disc territory. He wanted my PI triple disc and guaranteed that his TC would out perform the PI unit I had. I installed it along with one of my built transmissions. Backed it out of the shop, drove it down the street where I found that it seemed like I was starting out in 3rd gear or something. The stall was supposed to be 3600 but the car wasn’t moving like it should. I then nailed it and the TC gave out. I can drive the car about 4 blocks and the Trans temp will hit will over 200 degrees. The TC is slipping so bad that I can’t even drive it. And it has never locked up. When he was informed of this he blamed it on my tuning. For well over a year and a half we had discussion over this with him blaming everything but the TC. Then once it was proven that it was the TC he said that it was given to me so he’s not responsible. When in fact he got a 3 month old triple disc in exchange for this TC then doesn’t work at all. After some persuasion from others he finally sent me a replacement. I’m not about to put that one in though. You see I also was selling his TCs but after experiencing first hand how he treats his customers and his business practices I dropped him. During all this I also sold one of his triple disc to a very loyal customer and had a catastrophic failure that took out not only the trans like mine but also the engine since it balloon and forced itself against the crank taking out the thrust bearing and oil pump. He wouldn’t take responsibility for this one either. I know of 2 others and have pics so even though these two are second hand I have proof on one of them. There was a big fight on the Crown Vic site over this. The owners of his TCs came in after he started denying everything. He’s also started building transmission and I know of 6 people that have had problems with them and he wouldn’t support them. In this thread you can see where one of his transmission customers asked him for help and he went off on the customer telling him he wasn’t going to help him since he posted he was having a problem. http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1350164&fpart=1 So it’s up to you on whether you want to do business with someone like this or not.

After all that insanity I found another company that has been building TCs for over 60 years and will stand behind their products. Since I’ve been using them I haven’t had a single failure or complaint from any of my customers. I work directly with the owner and we discuss each build to come up with the correct setup for each customer.

I can’t beat that price he is offering you. But here’s my thought on your comment. If he’s willing to sell you a TC at that price it either shows that he’s desperate for business and is willing the slash his prices. In doing so you have to wonder what good parts he has taking out of that TC in order to give you a price like that. You get what you pay for with TCs. And if he’s is desperate enough to sell at that low of a price than is he going to be around when or if it fails to help you out.

I can set you up with a good billet 11 inch TC with a stall of 3000 for $625 plus shipping. You’re looking at a billet front cover, steel dampener, 11 inch piston with high carbon friction lining for a total of 30 square inches of friction material over the stock 18 inches of thin paper material. I’m working on another setup right now that will be in the $500 range but that’s still a few weeks away. These are not up on my website yet so you have to call to order them. http://www.blueovalchips.com

Lol, you don't know Voidfinger. Good info, but yeah, he really is cheap, lol.

Basically, on a modern converter, no matter the stall speed, cruising it should lock normally and behave normally.

 

[SnakedMark8]

Re: The Torque Converter Thread "PLEASE STICKY"

Lol, you don't know Voidfinger. Good info, but yeah, he really is cheap, lol.

Basically, on a modern converter, no matter the stall speed, cruising it should lock normally and behave normally.

lol well if your working two part time jobs to pay for an apartment and school and trying to keep up a 170k mustang that likes to fall apart , you'll know why i'm cheap. I just look for deals and when i find them I jump... learned behavior from my dad I guess.

I can set you up with a good billet 11 inch TC with a stall of 3000 for $625 plus shipping. You’re looking at a billet front cover, steel dampener, 11 inch piston with high carbon friction lining for a total of 30 square inches of friction material over the stock 18 inches of thin paper material. I’m working on another setup right now that will be in the $500 range but that’s still a few weeks away. These are not up on my website yet so you have to call to order them. http://www.blueovalchips.com

if i end up going with the 4v set up, would a stall up to 4k do better? also that stall that you said for 625, is it possible to bring it up past 3k or not? About dirtydog, when i said 260 that was with my converter. But that is like 3 or 4 people said the same thing... so i don't think i'll be messing with that.

Yes, I would recommend a 3800 - 4000, that's what I'm going to with my Mark 8. Now remember the B head DOHC doesn't make near the torque as a SOHC. So if you were to take a custom TC with say 3000 stall it will stall much lower in the DOHC. Also the 4.10s will effect this somewhat also. So what I suggest you figure out your combination first. I see you also are wanting to add NOS. Now with NOS you will increase your torque output. So your stall has to be figured out with the engine combination's max torque with the NOS, vehicle weight and gears. Your stall will be lower without the NOS.

The 11 inch will max out about 3000 - 3200. You would have to step up to the Stage III, 9.5 inch. http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?action=item&id=82&prevaction=category&previd=14&prevstart=0

OUCH at that price lol.

you do know that the guy from dirty dog used to work for Darrin at BC right? He used to do stalls for him.

Also, just to save you the work/hassle. If you ever plan on doing cams make sure you do them first so that you can get the stall setup properly to your dyno sheet. Just a suggestion.

ahhhh, i got ya, i just remember taking this tranny out and putting the other in a couple weeks ago. That was killer... took two days with a friggen lift and all the tools. My god i don't want to have to do that again lol.

you do know that the guy from dirty dog used to work for Darrin at BC right? He used to do stalls for him.

If you read that thread I linked above you will see that your statement isn't entirely true. Alan is dirtydog, that's his log in name on all the forums he posts in. He used to work for a TC shop in OH and built TCs on the side. He then lost that job and Darrin convinced him to start his own company. I've known Darrin for quite some time and before all this happened. Darrin was more of a mentor to Alan during all this. Alan then started his business up Dirtydog Performance and in the beginning Darrin talked me into selling his TCs to help the guy out. We pushed his TCs until his business ethics went down the drain. Darrin tried to rescue him and failed. I dropped him because of the what I posted above. Then after Alan started posting lies about Darrin and I and Darrin had customers show up with destroyed TCs and transmissions Darrin also dropped him. I have all the facts, pics, emails, PMs and chat conversations to prove it all so this is not any type of slander, it is fact. Alan never worked for Darrin.

oh hmmm....i was told different by Alan. Maybe because i was in the market for a TC??? :mikec:

I'll have to add that one to the list. You can give Darrin a call at 317 718-4886, he'll have no problem with you calling and will clear it all up for you.

yeah i plan on going through darrin after i get these cams done for a nice stall setup.

Ok cool, tell him I sent you. Good luck with the cams. I have to put in a set in my Town Car. I'm in the middle of constructing a NPI bolt on build up for the Panther guys, Crown Vics, Grand Marquis, Town Cars, and I'm now at the PI cam stage. They see it done on the Mustangs all the time but nothing on these tanks and they want to see some real numbers vice someone telling them said numbers from a Mustang and then get a ballpark figure. Shops tend to leave these guys out of the performance world and they aren't any different from the Mustang guys. Same engine/trans, just totally differen't calibrations and of course the weight.

Lonnie

Good thread :thumb:

I'm a fan of BC also and usually suggest them to others...thats who i'll contact when i get off my ass and put my pile of parts back together someday.

awesome, good luck! Sounds awesome. :thumb:

You guys do realize that Darrin and I carry the same TCs and Transmissions? As soon as I get all he specs worked out on the Stage II 10 inch TC with my builder Darrin will also be carrying them. We talk almost daily over this stuff, combinations and so on.

so is the 10inch the 5XX ish converter?

Yes that's the one for $550. I've been on the phone most of last night with my builder and he's sent me some specs and diagrams this morning for me to go over. We are trying to come up with a set up for that will stall to 3500 rpm and still be efficient and keep the cost down. You see, anyone can throw together a TC with the right equipment and parts kits supplied by the bigger companies. Most use Sonex for the bulk of their parts. My builder manufactures the majority of his parts and then supplies kits to other TC shops. So he has the ability to custom build any part needed. Where as other shops will just butcher up the internals of an existing TC to get you the stall you want. This in turn creates a very inefficient TC.

Lonnie,

I would like to see what you would recommend for my setup as well. 1997 Mustang GT with Vortech SQ trim, Paxton I/C, and soon to have MPH custom grind blower cams. I will be in the 400-410rwhp range, hopefully 400tq. This car is a DD, never really sees the track. Just curious as to what you would recommend as to single/multi lock up and what range stall. Thanks.

discounts are always nice. So this 10 inch unit... will it be able to fully lock with out problems or burning? If so that would be coooool. that would be a converter i'd jump on soon. I'm just thinking of going on and doing the pi head swap with some cams and a healthy shot of nitros and calling it a day on the old girl.

Lonnie,

I would like to see what you would recommend for my setup as well. 1997 Mustang GT with Vortech SQ trim, Paxton I/C, and soon to have MPH custom grind blower cams. I will be in the 400-410rwhp range, hopefully 400tq. This car is a DD, never really sees the track. Just curious as to what you would recommend as to single/multi lock up and what range stall. Thanks.

torque converter thread fella's!

 

[SnakedMark8]

I talked to darrin at bc-automotive the other day about a transmission and TC for my car. With all the mods that are going in he told me would go no less than 3600 stall and this is on my DD. He also said he was having some sales right now. Just to let yall know if any of you are looking to get one right now. I think I am going to buy a transmission and tc package from him tomorrow!

That's good to hear. Darrin will take care of you. The stall sounds about right.