Throttle Responce

reivaxtorres

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eh, not quite. no one really makes one for an auto, but there is a trick, and its really simple:

buy an aluminum driveshaft for a 5speed, and then simply swap the input yoke from your old one to the new one. and bam! there you go, you have an aluminum driveshaft for an auto.

as for the flywheel, yeah, autos dont have flywheels, they have flexplates instead. and instead of a clutch, they have the torque converter. im sure you can free up some power there too, but im not too familiar with autos to help you out there
 
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Brian95SVT

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Never thought about that. So you just take the yokes from the new shaft out and put the old ones in and bolt it back up.. Seems like it would work. Guess I could look into that more.
Yeah, as for the converter I will be going to BC-Automotive's 3500 stall. But that won't be for a while.

I'm doing gears and shift kit then suspension, then stall, etc..
 

reivaxtorres

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yup, just swap them over from one to the other. i actually did the reverse, i bought my aluminum d/s from a friend who had it on his auto. he didnt have the original yoke anymore so i just swapped over my stock one into that one and its been on my car problem-free for close to a year now i think.
 

reivaxtorres

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my96gtstang said:
Is it hard to swap the yokes?

super easy. i used a hammer, a socket that was almost as large in diameter as the u-joint, and a pair of pliers.

1) remove c-clips/tension clips that lock the u-joint in place, but only 2 of them (the ones that hold the u-joint to the yoke).

2) position socket onto u-joint so that when you hit it with the hammer, it pushes the u-joint out of the yoke.

3) hit socket with the hammer. dont hit too hard because you dont want to ruin the u-joint.

4) do the same with the stock driveshaft.

5) place the auto yoke onto position on the aluminum driveshaft. use some grease or wd-40 or some kind of lube to make things slide in easier.

6) the yoke should slide in easy, no need for the hammer. once the yoke is on the driveshaft, simply re-install the c-clips/tensioners to lock it in place

7) all done.

here is an article that will help you, it talks about u-joint replacement, but it has pics that will help you out. i used a socket instead of the punch thing they used, and the edge of the sidewalk instead of the socket they used as support.

Article:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/5208_universal_joints_replacement/index.html

Summary of pics:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/5208_universal_joints_replacement/photo_04.html
 
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Brian95SVT

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reivaxtorres said:
my96gtstang said:
Is it hard to swap the yokes?

super easy. i used a hammer, a socket that was almost as large in diameter as the u-joint, and a pair of pliers.

1) remove c-clips/tension clips that lock the u-joint in place, but only 2 of them (the ones that hold the u-joint to the yoke).

2) position socket onto u-joint so that when you hit it with the hammer, it pushes the u-joint out of the yoke.

3) hit socket with the hammer. dont hit too hard because you dont want to ruin the u-joint.

4) do the same with the stock driveshaft.

5) place the auto yoke onto position on the aluminum driveshaft. use some grease or wd-40 or some kind of lube to make things slide in easier.

6) the yoke should slide in easy, no need for the hammer. once the yoke is on the driveshaft, simply re-install the c-clips/tensioners to lock it in place

7) all done.

here is an article that will help you, it talks about u-joint replacement, but it has pics that will help you out. i used a socket instead of the punch thing they used, and the edge of the sidewalk instead of the socket they used as support.

Article:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/5208_universal_joints_replacement/index.html

Summary of pics:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/5208_universal_joints_replacement/photo_04.html

thanks a lot for the info.
will come in handy one day when i go to do this
 
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Brian95SVT

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I wish my parents won the lotto.... HAHAH random thought but it was goin thru my head...
like what i would do if they won because my dad said if he won the jackpot he would give me a nice chunk. like say it's 15 mil, i'd get like 2 mil or something.

talk about a freakin shoppin spree!! hahah
 

BrandoGT

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how much of a difference did you notice when you put on the Alum. d/s? I am pretty interested in finding one and throwing it on. I know the theory behind but I was just curious as to how noticible it is.
 

reivaxtorres

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my96gtstang said:
I wish my parents won the lotto.... HAHAH random thought but it was goin thru my head...
like what i would do if they won because my dad said if he won the jackpot he would give me a nice chunk. like say it's 15 mil, i'd get like 2 mil or something.

talk about a freakin shoppin spree!! hahah

tell me about it. the first thing i would do is pay off my house, credit cards, and then go on a shopping spree. i figure one of each SVT model made, maybe throw in an SVO here and there. :hammer:

BrandoGT said:
how much of a difference did you notice when you put on the Alum. d/s? I am pretty interested in finding one and throwing it on. I know the theory behind but I was just curious as to how noticible it is.

i really didnt notice it off the line, it felt the same to me. once the car got moving though, thats when you could tell that it was reving up quicker. the car did feel a lot lighter after the d/s install too.
 
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Brian95SVT

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reivaxtorres said:
my96gtstang said:
I wish my parents won the lotto.... HAHAH random thought but it was goin thru my head...
like what i would do if they won because my dad said if he won the jackpot he would give me a nice chunk. like say it's 15 mil, i'd get like 2 mil or something.

talk about a freakin shoppin spree!! hahah

tell me about it. the first thing i would do is pay off my house, credit cards, and then go on a shopping spree. i figure one of each SVT model made, maybe throw in an SVO here and there. :hammer:

BrandoGT said:
how much of a difference did you notice when you put on the Alum. d/s? I am pretty interested in finding one and throwing it on. I know the theory behind but I was just curious as to how noticible it is.

i really didnt notice it off the line, it felt the same to me. once the car got moving though, thats when you could tell that it was reving up quicker. the car did feel a lot lighter after the d/s install too.

Yeah I was like.. Uh pay off school, put aside enough to pay off my friends college for him, buy a house in Raleigh, NC with some land and build a badass garage with my own lift, dyno and every tool ever hahaha build the living shit outta the stang, buy a few more rides... buy my mac, badass cameras, everything HAHAH but then I would save a good amount of it aas well. Just so I have moeny for a while.
 

vermilion

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if i won the lotto. id build more into stocks and IRAs. invest most of it to work for me. whats left. house, kids college fund and cars, so on.
 
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joelbegt

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the only difference i felt so far was the aluminum driveshaft, but i dont have much done. got most the parts for the pi intake swap waiting for install. the driveshaft was about the easiest mods i've ever done on a car. loss of weight with rotating mass is usually very signifigant. ex. i've heard people gaining several tenths by going to skinnies up front.
 

justinschmidt1

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joelbegt said:
the only difference i felt so far was the aluminum driveshaft, but i dont have much done. got most the parts for the pi intake swap waiting for install. the driveshaft was about the easiest mods i've ever done on a car. loss of weight with rotating mass is usually very signifigant. ex. i've heard people gaining several tenths by going to skinnies up front.

with a complete set of drag wheels you should pick up some tenths.

your saving so much weight though.

switching from some 17 inch wheels to skinnies and weld pro stars or w/e out back should save about 60 pounds of rotating mass...maybe more!

ive heard that 10 pounds is good for a .1 so that would be .6

dont know how true it is but would say .3-.5 isnt out of the question
 

Mr. OAM

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Just put a vacuum gauge on your intake manifold and adjust the idle mixture screws on the carb until you get maximum vacuum.........


Ah, you don't have a carb though. :dancing6: Food for thought, on a serious side though, is there an equivalent with an EFI throttlebody? Perhaps tuning to gain the most engine vacuum at idle? This gives my wife's carbed 331 amazing throttle response off the line, along with the excellent carb and power to weight ratio.


Steve
 

Jrgunn5150

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Mr. OAM said:
Just put a vacuum gauge on your intake manifold and adjust the idle mixture screws on the carb until you get maximum vacuum.........


Ah, you don't have a carb though. :dancing6: Food for thought, on a serious side though, is there an equivalent with an EFI throttlebody? Perhaps tuning to gain the most engine vacuum at idle? This gives my wife's carbed 331 amazing throttle response off the line, along with the excellent carb and power to weight ratio.


Steve

Yes there is an equivalent, but it is often overlooked in the tune. It would all have to be done with the ecu and datalogging, easy if you know what you are looking for (I'm sure you would grasp it right away Steve) but most tuner's don't care about idle/part throttle.
 

justinschmidt1

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MustangMatt96GT said:
i dropped .5 seconds with my prostars.

i believe it...

details?

did you go from street tires to DRs or slicks?

any differance in 60 foot time?

trap speed?

were you running prostars all the way around?

im curious...
 

AaRoN

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Mr. OAM said:
Just put a vacuum gauge on your intake manifold and adjust the idle mixture screws on the carb until you get maximum vacuum.........


Ah, you don't have a carb though. :dancing6: Food for thought, on a serious side though, is there an equivalent with an EFI throttlebody? Perhaps tuning to gain the most engine vacuum at idle? This gives my wife's carbed 331 amazing throttle response off the line, along with the excellent carb and power to weight ratio.


Steve

Even if we did have a Carb, our 4.6's don't produce enough vacuum, so that would most likely not make a difference.
 

MustangMatt96GT

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justinschmidt1 said:
MustangMatt96GT said:
i dropped .5 seconds with my prostars.

i believe it...

details?

did you go from street tires to DRs or slicks?

any differance in 60 foot time?

trap speed?

were you running prostars all the way around?

im curious...


Went from stock GT wheels with NT 555s on them.

60' is the same, i dont hvave the power to push ET streets(bought them for the future), BUt plan on 1.70 60' with a stock suspenison except drag springs.

and 3.5 x 15s up front, and 10x15s out back.
 

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