Timing Adjustment ?

NastyStang

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I recently bought a 1994 5.0
I went to adjust the timing and the distributor would not move. :violent1:
I don't know if it is rusted stuck
or if that model is adjusted by the CPU?
Just to clarify I have adjusted the timing on my 1989 and 1990 both 5.0's :evil5:
 

CC'S95GT

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good then you already know about the spout.
it's by the maf. if you don't already know.
the dizzy is likely stuck. a little pb blaster should loosen it up.
stock timing is 10* btdc but most run it between 12-14* on premium fuel
welcome to the site
post up pics of whatcha got
 
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NastyStang

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Thanks for the answer :eek:ccasion14:
but I am not sure what the spout is (do you mean the distributor spout?)
and the MAF by maf do you mean Mass Air Flow? (I am familiar with speed density & mass air)
I have kroil which is a great rust buster bees wax is also good.
The reason I wanted to change the timing is because of detonation it mostly happens when i get on it! WOT :laughing4:
 

CC'S95GT

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The spout connector needs to be pulled to set base timing. If you leave it in and try to set timing the puter will try to maintain the advance at what it was..
Mas Air Flow sensor. The spout is between the maf and fender well. It has a little gray end.
Kroil is the best penetrate I've found and marvel mystery oil is a close 2nd. PB is pretty good too.

for detonation- what grade of gas are you running? try stepping up to premium and see if the pinging goes away. or changing stations if your already running premium
 
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NastyStang

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Ohhhhhh, thats right now I remember what that is!
but I still can't turn the distributor to change the timing :tard:
just so you know I used a open end wrench to try and turn it.
I think it was an 1-1/16
 

toyman

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You never did say what is the timing set at. If it's at spec there may be another issue involved. I would mark it's present location and give the wrench a smack with a hammer to see if that frees it. And we all assume that the locking nut is loose.
 

rz5.0

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mine was pretty hard to move so we pryed it out. cleaned it up and replaced the o ring on it stabbed it and it moves freely now
 
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NastyStang

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The timing is set at 6 degrees
I let it soak all day yesterday
tonight after work I will try to break it loose
:nono:
I might try prying it up and change the o-ring


It would be nice to just get in it and start the car
I should get new plug and cap & rotor
 

CC'S95GT

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If it's at 6* and it's still pinging, you might want to look at the harmonic balancer.
They're known to slip and give you the wrong readings. You could also get vibs as well. Not to mention if it should come apart.
 
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NastyStang

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What is the easyest way to check the balance?
This just started to happen
the car is very hard to start it might take ten atempts and that's twenty revaluations to crank
Some times it trys to fire right when I let go of the ignition
then if it starts its missing until its warmed up?
yesterday I pulled the #6 plug and it needed to be changed but autozone & advanced auto
did not have Motorcraft ASG22C plugs maybe Napa will but I did find that the distributor where the clip hold down the cap was broken
luckily I had a second distributor and took the part but the problem exists.
 

CC'S95GT

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If you look from under the car usually you'll see some rubber pushing out between the HB and oil pan.
Or with the engine running yau can see it wobbling. That's how I found out mine was bad.
Don't think that would cause hard starts though. Give it a good tune up and clean the maf and let us know how it runs then.
 
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NastyStang

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:dontknow:
OK that sounds good but it will have to wait until Saturday.
if that does not work I have another motor that was in my 1990.
OK, Plugs/cap & rotor the wires are new but I will test them to see if the Oms on them are ok (steada 8mm ):BangHead:
 

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